The main wall facing the trail, sunny sheltered from the wind and about 25m high.

Access issues inherited from Kingston Mills

The cliffs are on Parks Canada land, in particular they are under the Ridea Canal Authority. Currently they tolerate climbers, and have done work to make the cliffs safer (2001-2002). They ask that you sign and mail a waiver to them before climbing.

As of spring 2011, the waiver (and information about access) was available from: http://www.ontarioaccesscoalition.com/downloads/Kingston%20Mills%20Waiver%20and%20Insert%202002.pdf



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Grade Route

GM backwards. Named after a large loose boulder that guarded the start for many years. It has been removed, and this gem has been unlocked. Start up and left of the Kamasutra Wall. Make a bouldery move to gain the crack, and traverse right across the entire Kamasutra Wall, topping out on Synergy.

Climb the overhanging face at the left end of the cliff on small underclings and sidepulls with bad feet. First climbed in the early 80s and is unrepeated. Grade not verified.

A fun, pumpy traverse from right to left across the first horizontal crack on the Kamasutra wall. Start on Synergy. Go past the bolts to the horizontal crack. Traverse left around the corner on gear (airy) following the crack until you can dyno to the ledge at the left end of the wall. From here you can tip toe up to beer ledge above kamasutra for the anchors, or build your own. Many variations exist at easier grades using the cracks above GM.

Great position. Start on Beer Ledge and wander up and left. Protects well.

Runs left of the arete that is left of Kiddie Corner.

Climb the slabby left edge of the main wall. Mostly thin face climbing.

(Watch for fall potential at 2nd bolt. Might want to sling tree after 3rd bolt. Or, bring a few pieces for the easy climbing to the top of the cliff.)

*NB Many climbers go off route by moving too far right and using the arete, follow the bolt line.

A well protected crack leading up and slightly right from Beer Ledge.

The obvious crack that angles up leftwards on the left side of the main face. Follow this up to blocky ground, then angle up rightwards following the crack to a pair of bolts for an anchor.

Generally a good trad lead, taking good gear. Opening moves into the corner are far far harder than the rest of the route, perhaps 5.6 or higher. Can be avoided by a bit of slab climbing up the face just to the right, until reaching the good hand ledge & traversing left into the corner at about 5.3.

There are lots of lines/variants between "Kiddie Corner" and "The Wedge", two particular lines are "Dilemna" and "Odeum", but many choices exist and have been climbed.

Grade will vary depending on line chosen, probably from about 5.5 to about 5.10, depending on line and eliminates.

Start just left of Dilemna on the face. Head straight up for the cedar then go right around it and carry-on to the top through the notch above.

Start at the bottom of the rubble, as far right as possible. Climb up slab to the break in the lower over-hang, pull through this, then up to the left break in the upper overhang. From here, proceed either straight up to bolts, or up and left to bolts, depending on which anchor used for the top-rope.

The obvious wide crack behind the flake held on by bolts is out.

Start just left of "The Wedge", and climb directly up and through the overhang, through some underclings to a 2nd overhang and up through this at the right-hand notch/break, to anchors.

The corner to the right of Odeum.

An easy route, but new leaders might be disappointed with the pro for the first half.

Use the bolt at the top to re-direct your rope away from the trunk of the cedar.

On the face to the right of The Wedge is a jagged crack that angles up and leftwards. Climb this leftwards, then back rightwards to anchors above "Irving's Overhang".

Obvious tech slab. Work on your footwork and stay on the face. Avoid the crack for the full grade.

Climb blocky stuff just to the left of Irving's Overhang. Sparse and marginal gear.

A brief roof hand crack just off the ground with bomber gear, short but excellent.

Dangerous to climb with stabilization bolts located in the middle of the route.

The short face just right of Irving's Overhang.

Climb the open book to the overhang. Escape left onto the ramp, head back right onto the face and then follow the bolts over the bulge and to the anchor above.

Only the face above the overhang is protected by bolts. Bring a couple small cams for the open book and ramp.

Eliminating the left ramp and pulling the overhang directly is a fun and more challenging variation.

Start down right, head up, traverse left, then follow the bolt line for as long as you can before cutting back right to the arete. Climb over the bulge to the anchor.

5.8ish if you follow the bolt line (it's easier than the '5.9s' Synergy and Fred's). You can soften the grade by starting in the open book or cutting right to the arete sooner.

Climb up the right face to the big slot before gaining the arete and carrying on up to the Brown Shoes Don’t Make It anchors

Starts above and right of "Brown Shoes Don't Make It." Start in the chimney and continue straight up through horizontal cracks until you get scared and step right.

Done everything else at the mills? Give this a go. Starts above and right of "Brown Shoes Don't Make It" in a chimney. Scrape up to the horizontal, and follow it until you can flop over the top.

The steep blocky face just right of the first easy way up, directly up from the gate. Start swinging on jugs, finding gear where you can. When you get to the horizontal crack before the boulder problem, place something you trust. This will be your last piece of pro. Rest on the ledge out left and get stoked to round the lip. Build an anchor up top.

This slab always looks wet. Go straight up from the gate and take several steps right to find the start. Start wandering up to the slab. Balance your way through the crux and finish on much better holds to the top. It's been led on gear before, but it doesn't protect well. Build an anchor on top.

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