Main Wall Mostly Trad climbing 27 routes in cliff

GM backwards. Named after a large loose boulder that guarded the start for many years. It has been removed, and this gem has been unlocked. Start up and left of the Kamasutra Wall. Make a bouldery move to gain the crack, and traverse right across the entire Kamasutra Wall, topping out on Synergy.

Climb the overhanging face at the left end of the cliff on small underclings and sidepulls with bad feet. First climbed in the early 80s and is unrepeated. Grade not verified.

A fun, pumpy traverse from right to left across the first horizontal crack on the Kamasutra wall. Start on Synergy. Go past the bolts to the horizontal crack. Traverse left around the corner on gear (airy) following the crack until you can dyno to the ledge at the left end of the wall. From here you can tip toe up to beer ledge above kamasutra for the anchors, or build your own. Many variations exist at easier grades using the cracks above GM.

Runs left of the arete that is left of Kiddie Corner.

Climb the bolted slabby left edge of the main wall with thin face climbing. Watch for fall potential at 2nd bolt.

Might want to sling tree after 3rd bolt. Either stop on the Beer Ledge and use two bolts (large Metolius hangers that can be rapped from but not lowered off of) as an anchor or continue up Three Finger Grunt to anchors up and far back from the cliff edge.

*NB Many climbers go off route by moving too far right and using the arete, follow the bolt line.

Safest if TRing from Synergy or Kiddie. Boulder start on the arete between Synergy and Kiddie. Start with hands matched about head high, feet on slopey holds compressing. First move to a nice, right hand wide pinch, then bounce higher to a more positive hold above some small slopers. Proceed up the arete staying between the two other routes, sometimes skipping easier holds to keep things interesting, until you make the ledge or move right to finish on Kiddie (25m).

The obvious crack that angles up leftwards on the left side of the main face. Follow this up to blocky ground, then angle up rightwards following the crack to a pair of bolts for an anchor. Generally a good trad lead, taking good gear.

Historically a 5.1, but significant erosion at the start has greatly increased the difficulty of the opening moves. The crux start can be avoided by a bit of slab climbing up the face just to the right, until reaching the good hand ledge & traversing left into the corner at about 5.3.

There are lots of lines/variants between "Kiddie Corner" and "The Wedge", two particular lines are "Dilemna" and "Odeum", but many choices exist and have been climbed.

Grade will vary depending on line chosen, probably from about 5.5 to about 5.10, depending on line and eliminates.

Start at the bottom of the rubble, as far right as possible. Climb up slab to the break in the lower over-hang, pull through this, then up to the left break in the upper overhang. From here, proceed either straight up to bolts, or up and left to bolts, depending on which anchor used for the top-rope.

The obvious wide crack behind the flake held on by bolts is out.

Start just left of "The Wedge", and climb directly up and through the overhang, through some underclings to a 2nd overhang and up through this at the right-hand notch/break, to anchors.

The corner to the right of Odeum.

An easy route, but new leaders might be disappointed with the pro for the first half.

Use the bolt at the top to re-direct your rope away from the trunk of the cedar.

On the face to the right of The Wedge is a jagged crack that angles up and leftwards. Climb this leftwards, then back rightwards to anchors above "Irving's Overhang".

Climb the open book to the overhang. Escape left onto the ramp, head back right onto the face and then follow the bolts over the bulge and to the anchor above.

Only the face above the overhang is protected by bolts. Bring a couple small cams for the open book and ramp.

Eliminating the left ramp and pulling the overhang directly is a fun and more challenging variation.

Start down right, head up, traverse left, then follow the bolt line for as long as you can before cutting back right to the arete. Climb over the bulge to the anchor.

5.8ish if you follow the bolt line (it's easier than the '5.9s' Synergy and Fred's). You can soften the grade by starting in the open book or cutting right to the arete sooner.

Starts above and right of "Brown Shoes Don't Make It." Start in the chimney and continue straight up through horizontal cracks until you get scared and step right.

Done everything else at the mills? Give this a go. Starts above and right of "Brown Shoes Don't Make It" in a chimney. Scrape up to the horizontal, and follow it until you can flop over the top.

The steep blocky face just right of the first easy way up, directly up from the gate. Start swinging on jugs, finding gear where you can. Rest on the ledge out left and get stoked to round the lip. Step off the ledge, and climb the headwall (crux) - clipping a single bolt to protect this section of the climb. Pull over the lip to top out at a two bolt anchor (mallions) about a meter back from the edge.

Protection throughout is good, but can be tricky to place. A standard rack should be more than enough to get to the anchor.

Due to the location/configuration of the anchor rappelling is the recommended descent option.

This slab always looks wet. Go straight up from the gate and take several steps right to find the start. Start wandering up to the slab past an old fixed piton. Balance your way through the crux and finish on much better holds to the top. It's been led on gear before, but it doesn't protect well. Build an anchor on top (trees).