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Seasonality
Description
All day sun
Wet in rain
South
Near the end of the northern/eastern arm of the lake, along the north shore there is a small (10-15m) wall hidden behind trees about 3-5m set back from the shore.
Currently (spring 2014) 4 described routes, but look like possibilities for 5-15 more.
Access issues inherited from Lac Sam
Other than The Swamp, the cliffs are on crown land.
Note: the private land sign (which appeared in 2018) on the left side of the road as you approach the parking is a lie -- that is crown land. The private land, no hunting sign on the right side of the road was not put up by the land-owner of that particular chunk of land, but by someone else -- the land-owner is unsure who, though he has a guess. (Conversation with land-owner, fall 2018.)
Approach
5-10 min
From the Lac Sam road, turn right onto Chemin (privee) des Sapins. (This will be shortly after Rue des Cedres.) At the 2nd left off des Sapins, pull in and park.
Hike down this old road until you're about 80m from the lake, and then branch off to the right. Bushwhack generally down towards the lake and rightwards, eventually crossing a small bog/stream (depending on how dry) and reaching the lake. Continue along the lake (keeping it to your left) until you reach the obvious, dark (water-stained) wall set about 20' back from the lake. About 15 minutes, total, from the car.
Or, canoe around the lake, beach the canoe, and take 3-5 steps to the wall.
Descent notes
Top can be accessed by an ugly scramble up the right side of the cliff, and descended the same way, if necessary.
Ethic inherited from Lac Sam
New routes welcome. Please document them on the crag.
Developer discussion: https://www.thecrag.com/discussion/3952671888
Bolting fine; rap-bolting fine. Please bolt for safe sport or mixed routes. If a route is almost completely bolted, bolt it as sport, rather than leaving just a couple of gear placements needed on an otherwise sport route.
There is lots of rock, try to avoid squeeze jobs.
If something has been climbed on gear, please don't retro-bolt without FA's consent.
History
First cleaned and climbed by Randy Reed, Martin Suchma , and David Gibbs in the summer of 2009.
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