The left "wing shaped" band of upper cliff.


The left "wing shaped" band of upper cliff.

Under development - most of the routes on these cliffs are not yet well-established or cleaned, they are tentative, test, or under development. Any visits to this section should be considered "exploratory".

Access issues inherited from Lac Sam

Other than The Swamp, the cliffs are on crown land.

Note: the private land sign (which appeared in 2018) on the left side of the road as you approach the parking is a lie -- that is crown land. The private land, no hunting sign on the right side of the road was not put up by the land-owner of that particular chunk of land, but by someone else -- the land-owner is unsure who, though he has a guess. (Conversation with land-owner, fall 2018.)


The approach to this section is not as well-developed as the approach to Right Wing.

There are two main choices: rappel "Upper Left Wing", then rappel "Main Cliff" or scramble down to the base of Upper/top Main, and rappel "Main Cliff".

For both, from the intersection of the approach trail and the ridge-top trail, continue up over the high-point in the land, down into a gully then out of the gully. Continue about another 300m until you see a cairn to the left of the trail. There should also be a sign for "Left Wing " at this point.

If you are going to rappel Upper Left, continue along the trail for about 100m until it opens out with a good clear view of the lake -- the trail will skirt the cliff edge for a bit, and depending on how you hike it, may be the second bit of this in the same basic area. Look for a single bolt right by the hiking trail (45.911192°, -75.808345°). A few meters below this bolt, approachable by easy 4th class, are the main rap anchors -- or if you don't like the exposure, protect reaching the main anchors with the single bolt. From here, it is two rappels of about 23m (2nd anchors are bolted as well) down the route "Mixed Precipitation" to the base. Main Cliff is directly in front of you, and the top of the currently developed climbs on Main Cliff is (skier's) left of the base of the rappel, and marked with a cairn (45.910992°, -75.807488°). It is one more 30m rappel from there to the base of "Main Cliff".

Or, to avoid the first set of rappels, at this point (that is, the cairn, in case you forgot after the previous paragraph) branch leftwards following flags to a fixed rope down a small scramble. At the base of the rope, turn (skiers) right along the base of the cliff. Follow this for a bit, then angle leftwards towards the top of "Main Cliff". The obvious high-point is the top of the (2-pitch) rappel for "Arnor", and further along will be the top access for the other climbs -- with fixed-ropes to a couple of the anchors.

Ethic inherited from Lac Sam

New routes welcome. Please document them on the crag.

Developer discussion:

Bolting fine; rap-bolting fine. Please bolt for safe sport or mixed routes. If a route is almost completely bolted, bolt it as sport, rather than leaving just a couple of gear placements needed on an otherwise sport route.

There is lots of rock, try to avoid squeeze jobs.

If something has been climbed on gear, please don't retro-bolt without FA's consent.



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