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Summary

The right wing shaped band of upper cliff.

Description

The right wing shaped band of upper cliff.

This is the main developed area at Lac Sam.

A rope has been installed along the base of the cliff, as the base is not flat, is a bit loose, a bit steep, and a bit exposed in places.

Access issues inherited from Lac Sam

Other than The Swamp, the cliffs are on crown land.

Note: the private land sign (which appeared in 2018) on the left side of the road as you approach the parking is a lie -- that is crown land. The private land, no hunting sign on the right side of the road was not put up by the land-owner of that particular chunk of land, but by someone else -- the land-owner is unsure who, though he has a guess. (Conversation with land-owner, fall 2018.)

Approach

About 15 minutes (measured by a 50yo desk-jockey carrying bolting gear), mostly uphill but not overly steep.

This is the cliff band nearest to where the approach trail reaches the top of the ridge line -- down and (skier's) right from that point.

From the intersection of the approach trail and the ridge-top trail, proceed almost directly down toward the lake. As the view opens out, you are above "Sunday Morning Stroll" and should see a fixed rope leading down to the rap anchors.

The fixed rope will bring you to some anchors at the top of "Sunday Morning Stroll" and "Ovipositor" (45.910598°, -75.803813°). At this point, rappelling to the base is, by far, the best choice.

The hand-drawn sketch should help with finding other rappel/TR anchor points. If you rappel in, the easiest climb out is "Sunday Morning Stroll" -- a soft close-bolted sport 5.5.

The rappels to the (skier's) left are rope-stretchers on a 60m rope, and a 70m rope might be preferred. (The left-most anchor does not have rap bolts on it, as it does not rappel on a 60m, and is even a bit of rope-stretcher on a 70m.) The rappels to (skier's right) are all about 20m.

There is a scramble down about 200m (skier's) left of the anchors, that provides the approach to "Gully Wall". It can also be used to reach the base of "Right Wing", but rappelling is generally a faster and more pleasant choice. (There is no reasonable scramble or gully to access this cliff anywhere skier's right, farther along the ridge-top trail.)

Ethic inherited from Lac Sam

New routes welcome. Please document them on the crag.

Developer discussion: https://www.thecrag.com/discussion/3952671888

Bolting fine; rap-bolting fine. Please bolt for safe sport or mixed routes. If a route is almost completely bolted, bolt it as sport, rather than leaving just a couple of gear placements needed on an otherwise sport route.

There is lots of rock, try to avoid squeeze jobs.

If something has been climbed on gear, please don't retro-bolt without FA's consent.

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Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
TnA Wall cliff
10
261
30m
1

Routes

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Grade Route

This is a loose gully that provides an approach to "Gully Wall" (that section is roped) and could also be used to get to the base of "TnA Wall", or to exit without doing a climb. But, you are generally better to rappel in and climb out, with the easiest choice being "Sunday Morning Stroll".

From the base of "TnA Wall", walk climbers right until an obvious wide, treed, gully is visible going up and rightwards. Climb this 3rd class gully to the top.

From the top, this is harder to find, and there are other gullies that get dangerously steep if you choose the wrong one. It is skiers' left of the of where the approach trail from parking meets the ridge trail, about 200 meters, and angles down and rightwards. It is the first wide (15m) gully that drops down. It starts about when the ridge line starts to drop.

This was originally, perhaps misleadingly, called "Easy way up/down".

FA: David Gibbs & Randy Reed, 2012

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Activity

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