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Description

A section of cliff about 100m right of TnA wall that overlooks the "Awful Gully Scramble".

The wall has a lower section to the left, and an upper section with a wide sloping ledge at its base to the right.

No finished routes yet -- but some in progress.

Access issues inherited from Lac Sam

Other than The Swamp, the cliffs are on crown land.

Note: the private land sign (which appeared in 2018) on the left side of the road as you approach the parking is a lie -- that is crown land. The private land, no hunting sign on the right side of the road was not put up by the land-owner of that particular chunk of land, but by someone else -- the land-owner is unsure who, though he has a guess. (Conversation with land-owner, fall 2018.)

Approach

From where the approach trail drops down to the top of "TnA Wall", there should be a faint hiker's trail proceeding skiers left along the top of the ridge. Follow this for about 150m, looking for a wide gully dropping down and right (about 120 degree turn to the right). About 15m into the gully there will be a rope tied around a tree. Follow this rope down until you come to a second rope tied to a tree. Follow this second rope across to the left, and it will leave you on the bench below "Apperitif" and "Digestif".

Or, from the top of the gully, you can also traverse skiers right across ledges top anchors (of "(Apéritif)" and "(Digestif)") and then rappel into the base. This is a bit exposed, but not hard.

Descent notes

Lower-off anchors, or top-out.

Ethic inherited from Lac Sam

New routes welcome. Please document them on the crag.

Developer discussion: https://www.thecrag.com/discussion/3952671888

Bolting fine; rap-bolting fine. Please bolt for safe sport or mixed routes. If a route is almost completely bolted, bolt it as sport, rather than leaving just a couple of gear placements needed on an otherwise sport route.

There is lots of rock, try to avoid squeeze jobs.

If something has been climbed on gear, please don't retro-bolt without FA's consent.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Starts on top of a juniper bush below and right of a square groove through a small bulge about 4m up.

Climb up on to the slab and angle left to the square groove. Climb up this towards the obvious arete, and at the end of the groove step left onto the slab below the arete. Continue up the slab left of the arete to the anchors.

The start of this climb is about 4m down from the lower-left corner of the bench below "(Aperitif)". To get to it, rappel or lower off either the "(Apperitif)" belay bolt, or the anchor of either "(Apperitif)" or "(Digestif)" after climbing one of them. Once finished this climb, it is easy to lower or rappel to the bench and safety rope t the top of it. (One could also scramble down from the other anchors to this anchor -- or back up from this anchor to those anchors. The approach from below looks like a slightly too steep & loose scramble to be comfortable.)

At the top of the broad slab is a small foot-ramp heading up and right, and a bolt for the belayer. Climb up this for a few meter to a blocky corner, then up the blocky corner to the horizontal break. At the break, traverse right about 2m, crossing the line of "Digestif" then up the good holds on the right side of the upper face to finish.

Bolted anchor, lower-off, rappel, or top-out.

Juggy fun, probably about 5.3 - 5.4.

FA: David Gibbs, 16 Mar

Starts at the far right side of the cliff section, at a belayer bolt. Start up over a couple small ledges to a shallow scooped slab, then continue up this to the horizontal break. At the break, step left a couple meters, crossing the line of "(Apéritif)", to below some left-facing rails on the upper face. Climb up this harder face to finish.

Maybe 5.10+?

FA: Su Alteen, 16 Mar

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