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Description

The band of cliffs up and left of the tall arching band of rock that is Lower Left Wing/Main Cliff - the eyebrow.

Access issues inherited from Lac Sam

Other than The Swamp, the cliffs are on crown land.

Note: the private land sign (which appeared in 2018) on the left side of the road as you approach the parking is a lie -- that is crown land. The private land, no hunting sign on the right side of the road was not put up by the land-owner of that particular chunk of land, but by someone else -- the land-owner is unsure who, though he has a guess. (Conversation with land-owner, fall 2018.)

Approach

See approach for "Left Wing" for description of access from the bottom. There is also a double-rap as an alternative:

When the approach trail from the parking reaches the top of the ridge turn right (west) and follow the ridge-top trail. This will climb up to a high-point on the ridge, then drop into and climb out of a small ravine. Continue for another 10 minutes or so, passing the cairn that marks the scramble descent, until the trail climbs another, less pronounced, high point. At the top of this, there will be an obvious, exposed cliff-top area with open views of the lake. Continue along the top of the cliff-edge until you step past a piece of rock with a bolt & hangar, above a gentle slab that slowly gets steeper as you go down.

The main rap anchors are a few meters down from the single bolt. Use it to protect access to the main anchors if not comfortable just walking to them.

Ethic inherited from Lac Sam

New routes welcome. Please document them on the crag.

Developer discussion: https://www.thecrag.com/discussion/3952671888

Bolting fine; rap-bolting fine. Please bolt for safe sport or mixed routes. If a route is almost completely bolted, bolt it as sport, rather than leaving just a couple of gear placements needed on an otherwise sport route.

There is lots of rock, try to avoid squeeze jobs.

If something has been climbed on gear, please don't retro-bolt without FA's consent.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 5.3 PG 30m
2 5.1 10m

not a well-established or cleaned route

About 5m left of Mixed Precipitation, there is a tree right at the base of the cliff. Stem off the tree to get onto the slab.

Climb up the channel between the huge (submarine) sized detached black to the left and the crack, then aim for a small-left facing corner with a crack behind it. Near the top of this, step right then up slab to a loose ledge. Scrabble around on the ledge, until you find some trees to anchor on.

From anchor, climb some short steep faces on good holds to the easy finishing slab.

FFA: David Gibbs & Kate Hunt, 19 Jun 2016

Climb the slab left of "Mixed Precipitation" along the shallow crack. Arete is optional (to the left of the crack) but not part of the original/intended route.

FA: Bartski, 19 Sep

Set: Bartski, 14 Nov

1 5.8 25m
2 5.4 23m

Start at the base of a right-facing corner, with a large roof above the back wall of the corner, about 10m up.

  1. 25m (5.8, 11 bolts). Lots of ways to do this section... follow the original trad line staying in the corner until the roof, then pulling out left. Or at the bulge at bolt 2, go right onto the slab. At bolt 4, pull left up and onto that slab. All lead to passing the "Arc en roc" anchor and then following the obvious crack above to the fixed belay.

  2. 23m (5.4, 8 bolts). From the anchor, walk right and up, then continue up the steepest part of the cliff above, until the climbing eases off to a stroll to the anchor.

With two bolted anchors, this can be rappelled to get to the base of Upper Left Wing, or the top of Main Cliff.

FA was done on gear, later bolted by FA.

FFA: David Gibbs & Kate Hunt, 19 Jun 2016

Climb up the black streaked rock just right of Mixed Precipitation. Anchor under the roof. This is a slab climb with many small crimpy holds. Climbs very consistently.

Bottom access only.

Set: Simon McMillan, 2020

FFA: Bartski, 2020

Left of Lemon Technique. Climb up the slab then angle slightly right into the roof, which is the crux. Over the roof and continue straight up over easier ground to the anchor.

Bottom access only. You can easily continue on to the Mixed Precipitation anchor and do the second pitch of that route.

Set: Simon McMillan, 12 Jul 2020

FFA: Bartski, 1 Aug 2020

FA: Simon McMillan, 1 Aug 2020

About 10 m right of Mixed Precipitation, at the right edge of the slab. Start either along the crack under the lower roof or up just left of that, onto a slab. Follow the crack, past the right edge of the upper roof. Continue to follow flaky cracks to the anchor.

Bottom access only.

Set: Simon McMillan, 28 Jun 2020

FFA: Simon McMillan, 1 Aug 2020

FA: 1 Aug 2020

Trad route arcing from right to left. Start up the crack just right of Lemon Technique. Follow the crack up and left, to follow the crack under the roof until you meet up with Mixed Precipitation where there is an anchor for this route, just over the arete on the left side of the roof. Good protection options throughout.

NOTE: There are a couple of loose rocks under the roof to be mindful of. We may remove them in another round of cleaning if they turn out to budge more when tools are applied.

Set: Simon McMillan, 1 Aug 2020

FA: Simon McMillan, 1 Aug 2020

Just to the right of the overhang beside Lemon Technique climb up the steep start. Pulling the overhanging section is the crux. Continue slightly left to a ledge. From there continue straight up slabs. Finish right to the anchor.

FA: 2020

Set: Simon McMillan, 2020

[closed project]

Between Updraft and Fractus. Look for a block close to the base of the cliff. Step up on it to start. Head up the slightly overhanging start, then slightly left following cracks. Continue straight up past a small cedar tree. Continue through the dihedral to the bolted anchor. Decent gear throughout. The crux is the first few metres (5.8 or 5.9) then a bit easier. NEEDS ANOTHER CLEANING.

Set: Simon McMillan, 30 Oct

Just left of Microburst. Head up a few metres to a bulge where you traverse left, then up a dihedral -- tricky near the top, 5.8+.

Set: Simon McMillan, 10 Oct

FFA: David Gibbs, 7 Nov

First bolted line on the right end of the cliff. Head up a slab, then into a steep section and to the anchor. Avoid the rightward trending crack at the start for extra points.

Current consensus is 5.10b/c, but may settle to 5.10b as the dust cleans off the holds and smears, or better beta is found.

Set: Simon McMillan, 10 Oct

FFA: Su A. Alteen, 7 Nov

In progress trad route.

Starts just right of "Microburst".

Climb cracks and ledges angling up and right, until you can pull up onto a ledge right of the roof. Then angle left and up to finish.

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