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Description

This is the obvious largest cliff on the entire hillside, dominating the left side of the formation.

While there are now a solid collection of routes worth a visit, there is still room for many new routes.

Access issues inherited from Lac Sam

Other than The Swamp, the cliffs are on crown land.

Note: the private land sign (which appeared in 2018) on the left side of the road as you approach the parking is a lie -- that is crown land. The private land, no hunting sign on the right side of the road was not put up by the land-owner of that particular chunk of land, but by someone else -- the land-owner is unsure who, though he has a guess. (Conversation with land-owner, fall 2018.)

Approach

See "Left Wing" for approach, which describes either a trail & scramble (with fixed rope), or rappelling "Mixed Precipitation". The following assumes you have done one of those, and made it to the top of "Main Cliff" and considers choices for descent to the base.

If approaching from the roped-scramble, the first Main Cliff route you will encounter is the rocky knoll that is the top of "Arnor". This is a 2-pitch rappel to the base.

If you continue skier-'s right down along the herd-path at the top of the cliff, you'll next come to the collection of routes near "Felix Felicis". There is a fixed rope from an anchor in the trees to the top of Felix Felicis, make the down-scramble more comfortable. If you curve back left-wards along the cliff-top, there is a 2nd fixed rope protecting the traverse to the top of "A Story for Jan". Both are 30m rappels to the base.

To avoid using the fixed ropes, the 'UK-Swiss Confederation' anchor is also easily accessible by continuing skiers right along the cliff top from 'Felix Felicis' rap anchor.

If approaching from the base of the "Mixed Precipitation", if you head directly forward/down towards Main Cliff, you should find yourself close to the fixed rope on "(easy slab escape)", but this is not a recommended descent choice. (That rope is there primarily for developers to get back out again.) Instead follow the base of "Upper Left Wing" climber's right (past Lemon Technique) until a bit of a herd path breaks away from the base of the cliff, towards the top of Main Cliff. This should bring you out near the top of the "Felix Felicis" rappels described a couple paragraphs above this.

(Base still requires work for path between climbs.)

Descent notes

Lower-off or rappel the routes.

Ethic inherited from Lac Sam

New routes welcome. Please document them on the crag.

Developer discussion: https://www.thecrag.com/discussion/3952671888

Bolting fine; rap-bolting fine. Please bolt for safe sport or mixed routes. If a route is almost completely bolted, bolt it as sport, rather than leaving just a couple of gear placements needed on an otherwise sport route.

There is lots of rock, try to avoid squeeze jobs.

If something has been climbed on gear, please don't retro-bolt without FA's consent.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

About 20m left of UK-Swiss Confederation there is some easy (5.1?) but dirty, and usually soaking wet, slab with a fixed rope down it. It is a scramble out, primarily for use while doing route development. If you're climbing, "UK-Swiss Confederation" is the recommended "easy" way out.

Top access down and to the (skier's) right of Ninnyhammer. Easily accessible anchor. Well bolted for easy ascent at this cliff. Currently the easiest "climb out" route.

(Currently) the left-most bolted route, about 20m left of Ninnyhammer. After starting with a step up right, head mostly straight up along the bolt line. The first few moves are 5.6, after that it is no harder than 5.5.

Set: Phil Price & Simon McMillan

FA: Simon McMillan & David Gibbs, 23 May 2020

FFA: Simon McMillan & Kate Hunt, 28 Jun 2020

Start below an obvious right-facing short dihedral about 5m up the cliff.

Climb up to the dihedral and through it (crux), to easier ground then another headwall before the anchors.

Bolted route up left-side of the cliff.

VARIANT: After the easy stuff the route splits into two variants. Straight up is about 5.7 with smaller pockets, while the right variant (over the block that Felix Felicis skirts) is a bit easier and has larger flaky holds.

.

Set: Simon McMillan

FA: Simon McMillan, 2 Oct 2016

FFA: Simon McMillan, 30 Sep 2017

Start right of Ninnyhammer along a crack then onto a slab and over the roof. Then continue straight up, to an anchor in Ninnyhammer. 4 bolts.

Set: Simon McMillan, 1 Jun 2020

FA: Simon McMillan, 28 Jun 2020

This starts up a left-angling ramp below bolts on a slab to climber's right. At the roof, pull right onto the slab then step up into a large right-facing corner. Follow the corner until, near the end, you encounter a bolt to the right of the corner. Use this bolt to protect moves up and right into another right-facing corner. From the top of this, continue almost directly up, past a hidden gear placement at the back of small horizontal, then another bolt to the anchors.

About 31m climbing, but the lower-off is more direct, so generally goes on a 60m rope -- but tie a knot in the end.

A rope leads from an access anchor at the top to the anchor for Felix Felicis.

Most of the climb goes on gear, three bolts to start and two more (separate places) higher up. The first 5 metres or so are about 5.8, with interesting balancy moves. There are no gear placement options in this part. The rest of the route goes at about 5.2-5.7 with gear placement options throughout.

Set: Simon McMillan

FFA: David Gibbs, 26 Jul 2020

Pull up a short steep opening onto a slab. Mantle the shelf on the left and continue straight up (alternatively you can bypass this headwall by going right along it at the bottom to a bolt behind it). Up easier climbing to a short steep section(crux), then easier climbing to anchors. Most of the climb goes around 5.7 to 5.9, while the crux is 5.10b. The crux can be climbed either on the left or the right of the cleaned rock. In each case finding the crucial decent holds is a bit tricky.

Set: Simon McMillan

FA: TR summer 2017

FFA: David Gibbs, 30 Sep 2017

Starts up a short steep face, before moving left onto a small platform and up a left-facing corner.

Top anchor has a short approach rope for the traverse to or from the climbing anchor.

FA: Kate Hunt (top rope), 15 Sep 2018

FFA: Kate Hunt, 4 Jul 2020

(Might be 5.5?)

1-pitch from the mid-cliff anchor to the top of the cliff, sharing "Arnor"'s top anchor.

Climb up from the anchor until approaching a steep bulge; step down and right, then then up to a dihedral that breaks through the bulge on newly exposed rock. Follow the fresh rock up through a series of steps to the shared cliff-top anchor with Arnor.

FFA: David Gibbs, 18 Jul 2020

Climbs left of P1 of "Arnor" to the mid-cliff anchor where "Ithilien" starts.

Do a couple easy moves to a dirt ledge, where the climbing starts. Technical climbing past a small bulge and overlap, to a rest. Then slab towards the roof. Pull the roof, then pockety face to the anchors.

Can be combined with "Ithilien" to make a 2-pitch climb.

FA: David Gibbs, 18 Jul 2020

FFA: David Gibbs, 3 Mar

1 5.9 20m
2 5.8 25m

From the top, it descends skiers left from anchors on a small knob at the obvious high point of the wall. (There is now a 2nd line of bolts sharing the top anchor - -it is an in-progress route. Stay right when rappelling off the anchor for Arnor.)

Start below a short right-facing corner.

  1. 5.9, 20m. 12 bolts. Climb to the corner and then the corner (far too short) to a small ledge. Up and right across a slab to a small bulge with a tooth of rock hanging down. Pass the bulge right of the tooth, to a 2-bolt belay.

  2. 5.8. 25m. 8 bolts. Climb up easier ground to a vertical face, then more easy ground to a thin finish.

FA: David Gibbs & Simon McMillan, 23 May 2020

FFA: David Gibbs, 4 Jul 2020

Climb the obvious large left-facing dihedral up the center of left wing. Start on easy ground up to the crux section near the end of the route.

FA: Kate Hunt (TR), 11 Sep 2011

FFA: Dave Bergeron & Jean-Eudes Rousseau, 19 Sep 2020

Start at the tree trunk few meter left of Follow Your Bliss. Follow the right leaning flakes then straight up to a bolt. Pass the slab crux and climb the corner down bellow the the roof. Pull the roof to a bolt then the anchor. The protection is generally good, but it require small gear placement.

Set: Dave Bergeron

FFA: Dave Bergeron, 5 Apr

A few metres to the left of Mr. Mossy meets Mr. Chossy. Follow black streak on slab, over a bulge. Then some easier ground to the top section on the right edge of a prominent overhang to anchor on ledge above. The top section is 5.10a, while below it mostly goes around 5.8.

This route is in remembrance of Loren Baribeau, who introduced Simon McMillan to Joseph Campbell and his call to "Follow your Bliss".

Set: Simon McMillan, 21 Nov

FFA: Simon McMillan, 1 May

1 5.10a 13m
2 5.9 25m

Despite the name this is a beautiful route! To find the top anchor, from the end of the rope on the scramble down, turn skier's left and follow the bottom of the upper step (marked with tape) until you encounter a cairn (after about 40 m). Scramble down towards the cliff face, and you should spot a rope attached to a tree. Follow the rope down and skier's left to the top anchors of the climb.

Route begins on a textured slab below a roof. Look for small cairn and bolt a few metres up on the slab to find route. Above roof you can spot a protruding pinkish chunk of rock with short wide crack splitting it through the middle. Good gear placement in all the trad sections.

  1. 13 m, 2 bolts. Go up the slab and clear roof. Then aim slight right and and up through the wide crack and get on ledge with vegetation to the bolted anchor.

  2. 25 m, 5 bolts. Go up on slab following bolt line, aiming for distinct right facing corner with a narrow seam at the bottom. Follow the corner with seam widening to a hand crack. Gain the overhang and traverse underneath to the right. When you reach the arete climb up on easier rock and top out.

Set: Simon McMillan & Michał Sz, 25 Sep 2016

FA: Michał Sz (TRS), 25 Sep 2016

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