Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
(new route off ledge) - with Isabelle Scott | 25m, 8 | Don't Bother | |||||
Good, easy route. Crux is about 5.5-5.6 but the rest of the route is no more than 5.4. Not worth the scramble to get to the base but worth the extra effort if you are planning on climbing the other routes in this area.
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5.10a | ★★ Pelennor - with Isabelle Scott | 23m, 8 | |||||
Messed up at the overhang
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5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan - with Isabelle Scott | 30m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
With our packs - to exit
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5.9 | ★★ Bill Bucks - with Isabelle Scott | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Continued onto Ninnyhammer
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5.8 | ★★ Ninnyhammer - with Isabelle Scott | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
From the top of Bill Bucks
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Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.9 |
★★ Arnor
- with
Karen
| 45m, 12 | Average | ||||
5.9 |
★★ Arnor P1
- with
Karen
| 20m, 12 | Average | ||||
Got caught by a thunderstorm. Lowered the second and abseiled down
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5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan - with Karen | 30m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation - with Karen | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Pelennor - with Chieko H | 23m, 8 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan - with Chieko H | 30m, 10 | |||||
Top-roped this one for exfil with the backpack + kitchen sink
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5.10b | ★★ An Unexpected Journey | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fun as always! Some key crimp holds that aren't as visible from below
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5.8 | ★★ Felix Felicis | 31m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Ninnyhammer | 30m, 14 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
(new route off ledge) | 25m, 8 | ||||||
About 5.6, won't be the best route, but should be adequate.
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(slab/arete route under development) | 25m | ||||||
Will probably end up being 5.4-5.5, but hopefully with good position.
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5.5 | ★ Ithilien | 23m, 12 | ★ Good | ||||
5.6 | ★ Rhovanion | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.9 |
★★ Arnor P1
- with
David Gibbs, Bartski
1
5.9
20m
| 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Pelennor - with David Gibbs, Bartski | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fell off again. Went too high and left at the crux.
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5.5 | ★ Ithilien - with David Gibbs, Bartski | 23m, 12 | Average | ||||
5.10b | ★★ An Unexpected Journey - with David Gibbs, Bartski | 30m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Happy this went very well today
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5.9 | ★★ Bill Bucks - with David Gibbs, Bartski | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 |
★★ Arnor P1
1
5.9
20m
| 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.5 | ★ Radagast | 43m | ★ Good | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Felix Felicis | 31m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Tue 6th Sep 2022 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Ninnyhammer | 30m, 14 | ★ Good | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Felix Felicis | 31m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Need 3-4 pieces of larger pro (#2-#3 Camalot)
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5.10b | ★★ An Unexpected Journey | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Hidden half crimps on the pink crux
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5.9 | ★★ Arnor | 45m, 12 | |||||
Climbed out with pack as a single pitch. Way too much rope drag to do that again. WATERMELON-SIZED ROCKS LOOSE halfway up first pitch, on right face. They're sitting in shallow dirt and will come out on the next pull
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Mon 5th Sep 2022 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.9 |
★★ Arnor
- with
Isabelle Scott
| 45m, 12 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan - with Isabelle Scott | 30m, 10 | |||||
5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation - with Isabelle Scott | 30m, 14 | |||||
Sat 23rd Jul 2022 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Felix Felicis | 31m, 5 | |||||
5.6 | ★ You Can't Judge a Book by its Cover | 28m | |||||
Sun 3rd Jul 2022 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation - with Phil Price | 30m, 14 | ★ Good | ||||
In my running shoes.
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5.9 | ★★ Follow your Bliss - with Phil Price | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Mr. Mossy meets Mr. Chossy - with Phil Price | 38m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Led the second pitch today. Could use a bit of cleaning here and there.
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Sat 2nd Jul 2022 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Still recovering from ribs and pneumothorax.
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5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Still recovering from ribs and pneumothorax.
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5.10a | ★★ Pelennor | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Still recovering from ribs and pneumothorax.
With recovery, happy I could get this clean. |
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5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan - with David Gibbs | 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 29th May 2022 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.8 5.8 PG | ★★ Ninnyhammer Variant - with Isabelle Scott | 30m, 14 | |||||
Onsight of the variant. Repeat of Ninnyhammer up to the variant.
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5.10a | ★★ Pelennor - with Isabelle Scott | 23m, 8 | |||||
5.9 |
★★ Arnor
- with
Isabelle Scott
| 45m, 12 | |||||
Mon 23rd May 2022 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan | 30m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 1st May 2022 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Rhovanion - with Isabelle Scott | 18m, 7 | Average | ||||
Climbed above the anchor and belayed my second from there rather than trying to lower back down to the anchor given the significant lateral distance between the mid-cliff anchor and the anchor.
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Sat 16th Apr 2022 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.5 | ★ Radagast - with David Gibbs | 43m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Trad lead! Whew! Multi-pitch! Very emotionally exciting. Nice trees!
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5.8 | ★★ Ninnyhammer - with David Gibbs | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tirrrrrred
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5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation - with David Gibbs | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First climb out of the season. Whew!
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5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation - with David Gibbs | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First climb out of the season. Whew!
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5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation | 30m, 14 | ★ Good | ||||
Rope got stuck on the pull -- there's a rope-eating crack right at the top I'm going to have to fix.
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5.8 | ★★ Ninnyhammer | 30m, 14 | ★ Good | ||||
5.5 | ★ Radagast | 43m | ★ Good | ||||
Su's first multi-pitch trad lead. It took a while, but overall went well.
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5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation | 30m, 14 | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 15th Apr 2022 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Pelennor - with Matt Bull, Josee Lalonde | 23m, 8 | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Arnor | 45m, 12 | |||||
5.5 | ★ Ithilien - with Matt Bull, Josee lalonde | 23m, 12 | |||||
Mon 8th Nov 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.5 | ★ Radagast | 43m | |||||
Sun 7th Nov 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.5 | ★ Radagast - with David Gibbs | 43m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 28th Oct 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Mr. Mossy meets Mr. Chossy | 38m, 7 | |||||
5.10a 5.9 | ★★ Follow your Bliss | 20m, 11 | |||||
5.10b | ★★ Salamander | 23m, 11 | |||||
5.5 | ★ Radagast | 43m | |||||
Sun 24th Oct 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Felix Felicis | 31m, 5 | |||||
5.5 | ★ Ithilien | 23m, 12 | |||||
5.10b | ★★ An Unexpected Journey | 30m, 10 | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Bill Bucks | 12m, 4 | |||||
Broke a hold right at the bottom to the right of the crack you first go up.
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5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation | 30m, 14 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan | 30m, 10 | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Arnor | 45m, 12 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Ninnyhammer | 30m, 14 | |||||
Top bolt at anchor needs to be tightened or moved as the hanger does not sit flat and has play. Didn't have my tools on me to help out.
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5.6 | ★ Rhovanion | 18m, 7 | |||||
5.8 5.8 PG | ★★ Ninnyhammer Variant | 30m, 14 | |||||
5.10a | ★★ Pelennor | 23m, 8 | |||||
Sat 25th Sep 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Ninnyhammer Variant | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10b | ★★ An Unexpected Journey | 30m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
I hadn't successfully lead this in ages -- nice to know my climbing is mostly back.
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5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Pelennor | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Somebody said, "why'd you bolt a trad route" for this. So, I decided to lead it on gear. It isn't a good trad route at the grade -- too run out. I was fine, but I don't mind easy run-out trad.
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Sun 19th Sep 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Salamander - with Bartski | 23m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
A meeting almost forgotten means I couldn't go to Weir today, but the reward was an afternoon here with Bart, and getting the FFA on this.
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5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan - with Bartski | 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 4th Sep 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.7 5.6 | ★ You Can't Judge a Book by its Cover - with Isabelle Scott | 28m | Average | ||||
I think the crux is closer to 5.7/5.8. My second struggled through the crux too. Gear is OK, but thin in areas (decent gear below and above the crux but not through the crux). I ran out (5-10m) some sections of the climb. Got pumped through the crux because I didn't want to commit. Ended up have to take and rest after the crux.
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5.8 | ★★ Felix Felicis - with Isabelle Scott | 31m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
5.4 | ★ Indecision, Indecision, Indecision - with Isabelle Scott | 31m, 9 | Average | ||||
5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation - with Isabelle Scott | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
With backpack
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5.6 |
★ Radagast
- with
Isabelle Scott
| 40m | ★ Good | ||||
Wasn't sure how to start it, used the staircase-like blocks just right of A Story for Jan which has some good gear. Instead of using the large oak tree for the first pitch belay, I opted for a trad anchor in the crack system just left of the three for a high masterpoint and a comfortable belay stance. Climbed to the top, and belayed off a tree about 5m above the anchor for Rhovanion. Gear in the second pitch is sometime thin to inexistent. Some cracks could be cleaned with a nut tool to allow some small (x4 0.1/0.2) placements. I had left mine with my follower so I ran it out.
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Sat 28th Aug 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ The Red Turtle - with Simon McMillan | 18m, 2 | Average | ||||
5.6 | ★ You Can't Judge a Book by its Cover - with Simon McMillan | 28m | Average | ||||
Now that I've climbed it in dry conditions, 5.6 feels far more reasonable as a grade.
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5.6 5.5 | ★ Radagast - with Simon McMillan | 43m | |||||
Climbed before doing more cleaning - at this point climbed at about 5.6, but will probably be closer to 5.5 when fully cleaned. Did it in one pitch -- I don't recommend this choice due to rope-drag.
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5.9 | ★★ Follow your Bliss - with Simon McMillan | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun route.
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5.4 | ★ Indecision, Indecision, Indecision - with Simon McMillan | 31m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
5.9 | ★★ The Red Turtle - with David Gibbs | 18m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Really enjoyed the upper bit.
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5.6 | ★ You Can't Judge a Book by its Cover - with David Gibbs | 28m | Average | ||||
Only the last bit is worth it.
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5.5 | ★ (in progress trad route) - with David Gibbs | 43m | ★ Good | ||||
A good easy trad.
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5.9 | ★★ Follow your Bliss - with David Gibbs | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.4 | ★ Indecision, Indecision, Indecision - with David Gibbs | 31m, 9 | Average | ||||
Good at its grade.
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Sat 14th Aug 2021 - Lac Sam | |||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ A Story for Jan | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Ninnyhammer | 30m, 14 | ★ Good | ||||
Took the left variation.
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