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Summary

Historical routes

Description

As the crag develops, some routes that were originally top-roped are no longer climbed, or the lines have changed. To make the descriptions of the areas cleared, I am moving such lines to this area -- intended to preserve the history, but reduce the clutter.

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Routes

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Grade Route

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

From TnA wall.

So named because when I went to grab a piece of rock to throw off on the FA, it wriggled out of my fingers before I could put it back on the wall, and I shouted "frog" (instead of "rock"). Of course, it was probably a toad, not a frog.

Start at the base of the cliff, below the ramp, just about vertically below the right-end of the slanting dihedral at the top of the cliff (that is the top of "Easy Street"). Climb up the short wall to the ramp, accross the loose rock of the ramp, then basically straight up. In the lower sections, keep to the good rock, avoiding dirt/moss/vegetation as possible. This stays right of the route of Easy street the whole way, just meeting up for the last couple of moves and top-out.

FA: David Gibbs & Kate Hunt, 6 Sep 2011

historical

From TnA wall.

The flat rock has been destroyed by trundling from above, and the start has been re-directed farther right and more direct as the next route. This record maintained for historical reasons.

Looking up at the cliff, to the right of the big right-facing wall, is a pair of bulges that look a lot like breasts, even to the extent of having cleavage in the middle (which "Tits 'n' Ass" climbs through). This route passes to the left of the left breast.

Scramble up to a flat rock sitting between the cliff and a cluster of trees. This makes a good belay stance, and the climb starts just to the right of this. Climb up the right-sloping dihedral ramp, with moss in the middle avoiding the moss, then when it ends, head more straight upwards, aiming to pass just to the left of the left breast, then up from there to the top. Build an anchor from a cluster of trees and a crack in a rock just below the trees (pink tri-cam).

The climbing is easy at the start, but the finish gets a lot more interesting.

FA: David Gibbs & Kate Hunt, 6 Sep 2011

historical

From TnA wall.

T'n'A originally avoided the first roof/bulge, starting to the left of the current line, but is no longer climbed that way.

FA: Kate Hunt & David Gibbs (top rope), 6 Sep 2011

Was on right end of Pink Floyd Wall.

Scramble up right of the overhang, until you reach a ramp. Pull up onto the ramp, climb the ramp, then escape up and over to the left. Up a couple moves will bring you to the base of a pair of dihedrals. Climb the left dihedral, escaping it leftwards near the top, then finish on easier ground.

FA: Kate Hunt (TR), 18 Sep 2011

From "Left Wing" -> "Main Cliff"

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

Start below some low roofs on the wall, about 5m left of the large left-facing dihedral.

Go up a left-facing crack, then traverse up and right towards a large flake, about 1m below the roofs. Up past the height of the roofs, then angle leftwards above the roofs following the path of least resistance and available placements, up to and over a small stand of trees, then up through a notch and finally exit rightwards to some trees just above the top of the dihedral.

FFA: David Gibbs & Kate Hunt, 11 Sep 2011

From "Left Wing" -> "Main Cliff"

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

Follow a direct line up the cliff where Wandering Frog wanders a bit more, following gear and easier climbing.

FA: Bertrand Braschi (TR), 11 Sep 2011

From "Left Wing" -> "Main Cliff"

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

Look for a large detached flake (up to body-width seperated at the top of it) that climbs about 4-5m up from the base. Climb this, then step from it across onto the main face. Climb fairly directly up from there, staying to the left of the large (3m high) completed detached pillar/block about 1/2 way up the face. (Not obviously just-sitting-there from the bottom, but is so as you climb past it.)

This is a rope-stretcher for a 70m rope, but the opening couple of meters or so to the base of the detached flake can be scrambled.

FA: Bertrand Braschi (TR), 11 Sep 2011

From "Left Wing" -> "Main Cliff"

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

Climb the face about 5m right of Scintille -- staying right of the large detached block.

FA: David Gibbs (TR), 11 Sep 2011

From "Left Wing" -> "Main Cliff"

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

About 5m further over from "One Tree Over".

A short section of good climbing to the right of some dark streaks in the rock.

(Top-rope by re-direction rightwards from the top anchor of Scintille.)

FA: Bertrand Braschi (TR), 11 Sep 2011

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