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Description

Longer routes starting from the base of the face.

Access issues inherited from Lac Sam

Other than The Swamp, the cliffs are on crown land.

Note: the private land sign (which appeared in 2018) on the left side of the road as you approach the parking is a lie -- that is crown land. The private land, no hunting sign on the right side of the road was not put up by the land-owner of that particular chunk of land, but by someone else -- the land-owner is unsure who, though he has a guess. (Conversation with land-owner, fall 2018.)

Approach

Rappel in from Sunday Morning Stroll, Ovipositor, or "Tits 'n' Ass" anchors. From the base of Pink Floyd Wall, follow/rappel the fixed rope down and right.

Descent notes

Rappel or lower-off.

Ethic inherited from Lac Sam

New routes welcome. Please document them on the crag.

Developer discussion: https://www.thecrag.com/discussion/3952671888

Bolting fine; rap-bolting fine. Please bolt for safe sport or mixed routes. If a route is almost completely bolted, bolt it as sport, rather than leaving just a couple of gear placements needed on an otherwise sport route.

There is lots of rock, try to avoid squeeze jobs.

If something has been climbed on gear, please don't retro-bolt without FA's consent.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

Look for a large right-facing wall at the top of the cliff and extending part way down, this climb aims for the face just right of that wall. Start up a ramp on higher ground, right of that face.

Climb leftwards up a wide easy slab with vegetated cracks towards the right-facing wall. (Minimal gear, but easy climbing.) At the wall, turn rightwards and climb up the clean rock on good holds to the top, exiting slightly left at the top, to a cedar tree for belay.

FFA: David Gibbs & Kate Hunt, 13 Aug 2011

There is a cluster of 5 (oak) trees at the base of the cliff. This climb starts just up and left of the cluster of trees.

This climb starts up initially over a series of blocky ledges, following generally easy climbing, and eventually passing left of the bulges near the top of the cliff.

FA: Helen Tsai, 3 May 2015

Start below the big roof just right of Sunday Morning Stroll. Climb up slabs and grooves to the roof, pull the roof, then finish more easily.

First ascended on gear. Bolted by suggestion of FA.

FFA: 5 Jul 2015

FA: Drew Marshall, Mike Greenwood & Ashwin Freyne, 5 Jul 2015

At the base below the left side of the the left tit are a pair of parallel right-leaning grooves. The climb starts up the right-side one, then up passing a gnarled tree to the right and up past the left side of the left tit.

This climb does not easily top-out.

FFA: David Gibbs, 20 Jun 2015

Start about 5m right of "Big Finish", climb up a short steep section to easier ground then up a dark-coloured groove to a small bulge. Continue up another inside-corner to the obvious larger roof. Pull this near the left edge, then up and right following the obvious right-facing corner.

As a variant, pulling the roof direct probably goes at 5.10-.

This climb does not easily top-out.

Route development: Kate Hunt: most of the cleaning, David Gibbs: bolting, a bit of cleaning.

FA: David Gibbs, others & TR, 15 Jul 2017

FFA: David Gibbs, 1 Jul 2018

Looking up at the cliff, there are a pair of overhangs/bulges split in the middle such that they look like a pair of breasts. This climb breaks the overhang through the cleavage in the middle. Start at a bolt line directly below this cleavage.

Climb up blocky ledges to the first bulge, pull over this then up the less vertical face above to the notch in the roof. Wiggle your way through the cleavage then up and right in the groove, or on the arete to the right, until the groove ends, then straight up to the anchors.

Note: TnA used to have a bit of a run-out to the anchor, but nowadays, people generally borrow/share the last bolt of "Kate and David's Excellent Adventure" if they're worried.

This is a real rope-stretcher on a 60m rope -- tie a knot and prepare to scramble, or prefer a 70m rope.

FA: David Gibbs, 2 Sep 2012

FA: Michael Hansen, 2 Sep 2012

FA: Kate Hunt, 2 Sep 2012

FFA: David Gibbs, 27 Sep 2014

Starts at a bright-white section of rock up a bit of a scramble. First bolt can also be used for belayer to clip-in.

Head up over easy blocky ground towards a small roof; pull over it directly at the bolt or a bit right of it. Continue upwards toward the right end of a larger roof. After pulling this, angle back left towards anchors shared with "Tits 'n' Ass".

Can be climbed with a 60m rope if belayer is prepared to scramble up a bit on the lower-off. Knot your rope in this case.

Set: Kate Hunt & David Gibbs

FA: David Gibbs, 2015

FFA: David Gibbs, 3 Jul 2017

Climb the clear path excavated from the dirt over a couple sloping ledges to a corner then series of corners and bulges above.

Fun climbing that gets steadily harder until you reach the crux 5.8 (maybe 5.8+) bulge.

Anchor is just short of the top of the cliff. To top out continue up and left a couple meters to the "Tits 'n' Ass" anchors (chains).

Goes on a 70m rope, but tie a knot. If you're short draws, it is pretty easy going for the first couple clips, so they can easily be skipped.

FA: David Gibbs, 7 Nov 2020

FFA: David Gibbs, 20 Mar

Down and right from the ramp that easy street and the other climbs start from, a rib of rock descends an extra few meters into the forest. The climb starts at the base of this rib, and goes mostly directly upwards from there, though it does wander a bit rightwards at a dihedral, then traverse back leftwards at the end of this.

Route is a rope-stretcher on a 70m rope.

Climb/TR/Lower-off anchor is about 2m from actual top-out. Use this one, unless actually topping out, then the higher anchor on the platform works.

After being a TR route, this spent a while as a trad line but, on gear, the route was a bit run-out in places, and gear was often small and/or tricky to place, though generally with decent stances for placing. So, retro-bolted in 2020 with permission of the FA.

When this route was first climbed on TR, there were two large loose stacks of rock near the route, the first (lower down) to the left of the route, and the 2nd farther up to the right of the route. This route was named because it travelled carefully between the two scary monsters.

FA: David Gibbs & Kate Hunt (top rope), 6 Sep 2011

FFA: David Gibbs, 2012

Starts about 5m (15') right and slightly down from "Scylla and Charybdis", with a belayer bolt, since the ground is a bit steep.

Follow the many many bolts up then trending left, past a couple bulges and much interesting climbing.

This route is 38m, it is a close rope-stretcher on a 70m rope. To climb from the bottom and lower, lower straight down (basically the "Scylla and Charybdis" line) rather than following the path of the route down. Also, consider using long slings on the anchor.

* currently does not have lower-offs *

Due to the traversing nature of the route, it does not make for a good rappel from the top nor a good top-rope, unless careful to maintain directionals.

Still needs another cleaning, however this route is now open .

The route is named after the musical "Come From Away", a story about Newfoundlanders hosting stranded passengers during 9/11.

FA: Su A. Alteen, 21 Nov

FFA: Su A. Alteen, 2 May

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