Lac Sam Guide

not a well-established or cleaned route

About 5m left of Mixed Precipitation, there is a tree right at the base of the cliff. Stem off the tree to get onto the slab.

Climb up the channel between the huge (submarine) sized detached black to the left and the crack, then aim for a small-left facing corner with a crack behind it. Near the top of this, step right then up slab to a loose ledge. Scrabble around on the ledge, until you find some trees to anchor on.

From anchor, climb some short steep faces on good holds to the easy finishing slab.

Climb the slab left of "Mixed Precipitation" along the shallow crack and top out. Arete is optional (to the left of the crack) but not part of the original/intended route. Continue up on easier ground to the anchor.

Start at the base of a right-facing corner, with a large roof above the back wall of the corner, about 10m up.

1. 25m (5.8, 11 bolts). Lots of ways to do this section... follow the original trad line staying in the corner until the roof, then pulling out left. Or at the bulge at bolt 2, go right onto the slab. At bolt 4, pull left up and onto that slab. All lead to passing the "Arc en roc" anchor and then following the obvious crack above to the fixed belay.

2. 23m (5.4, 8 bolts). From the anchor, walk right and up, then continue up the steepest part of the cliff above, until the climbing eases off to a stroll to the anchor.

With two bolted anchors, this can be rappelled to get to the base of Upper Left Wing, or the top of Main Cliff.

FA was done on gear, later bolted by FA.

Climb up the black streaked rock just right of Mixed Precipitation. Anchor under the roof. This is a slab climb with many small crimpy holds. Climbs very consistently.

Left of Lemon Technique. Climb up the slab then angle slightly right into the roof, which is the crux. Over the roof and continue straight up over easier ground to the anchor.

You can easily continue on to the Mixed Precipitation anchor and do the second pitch of that route.

About 10 m right of Mixed Precipitation, at the right edge of the slab. Start either along the crack under the lower roof or up just left of that, onto a slab. Follow the crack, past the right edge of the upper roof. Continue to follow flaky cracks to the anchor.

Trad route arcing from right to left. Start up the crack just right of Lemon Technique. Follow the crack up and left, to follow the crack under the roof until you meet up with Mixed Precipitation where there is an anchor for this route, just over the arete on the left side of the roof. Good protection options throughout.

NOTE: There are a couple of loose rocks under the roof to be mindful of. We may remove them in another round of cleaning if they turn out to budge more when tools are applied.

Just to the right of the overhang beside Lemon Technique climb up the steep start. Pulling the overhanging section is the crux. Continue slightly left to a ledge. From there continue straight up slabs. Finish right to the anchor.

Start up just to the left of an undercut area, up and slight right to a bit of an arete. Head up straight toward the left corner of the huge block above (which the two adjacent sports routes go over). Us the rope anchor on the large cedar. The first hard bit is protected by a bolt.

The route could use another brushing but is pretty clean now. Be mindful of the loose soil just above where the climb ends.

Regarding the name: I had an AWFUL time getting dirt blown upward into my eyes, mouth, and ears as I was developing this. Lots of anabatic wind!

Start on the right side of a short arete (Stick clip the first bolt). From the top of the arete continue over easier terrain to a small roof at the bottom of a huge block. Pull onto the ledge/bulge to the right, then climb straight up to the bolted anchor.

Just right of the deep undercut head up straight then a bit left toward short arete (or start straight up onto the arete for a super hard alternative). Keep heading up over easier ground to a hard and steep finish along the arete on the right of the slab.

About 5 m climbers right of Diffluence. Look for a block close to the base of the cliff. Step up on it to start. Head up the slightly overhanging crack start (protected by a bolt), then a short left traverse to cracks. Continue straight up past a small cedar tree. Then slight right and continue through the dihedral to the bolted anchor. Gear placements are good and close enough once you find them (sling the tree).

Just left of Microburst. Head up a few metres to a bulge where you traverse left, then up a dihedral -- tricky near the top, 5.8+.

First bolted line on the right end of the cliff. Head up a slab, then into a steep section and to the anchor. Avoid the rightward trending crack at the start for extra points.

(deh-ray-cho)

Starts just right of "Microburst".

Climb cracks and ledges angling up and right, until you can pull up onto a ledge right of the roof. Then angle left and up to the bolted anchor.

Could use another light brushing, but climbable.

About 20m left of UK-Swiss Confederation there is some easy (5.1?) but dirty, and usually soaking wet, slab with a fixed rope down it. It is a scramble out, primarily for use while doing route development. If you're climbing, "UK-Swiss Confederation" is the recommended "easy" way out.

Top access down and to the (skier's) right of Ninnyhammer. Easily accessible anchor. Well bolted for easy ascent at this cliff. Currently the easiest "climb out" route.

(Currently) the left-most bolted route, about 20m left of Ninnyhammer. After starting with a step up right, head mostly straight up along the bolt line. The first few moves are 5.6, after that it is no harder than 5.5.

Start below an obvious right-facing short dihedral about 5m up the cliff.

Climb up to the dihedral and through it (crux), to easier ground then another headwall before the anchors.

Ninnyhammer Variant: After the easy stuff the route splits into two variants. Straight up is about 5.7 with smaller pockets, while the right variant (over the block that Felix Felicis skirts) is a bit easier but a bit more run-out and has larger flaky holds.

.

Before the final wall on Ninnyhammer follow the right bolt line up and then back to the Ninnyhammer anchor. This variant provides somewhat different climbing than the main route. More reachy jugs rather than textured slab.

The variant, itself, if about 12m (5 bolts), but the route as a whole is the same length. It may be better to finish on the "Felix Felicis" anchors than the Ninnyhammer anchors.

A good option is to climb Bill Bucks, then follow Ninnyhammer for a few bolts and then finish with the variant.

Start right of Ninnyhammer along a crack then onto a slab and over the roof. Then continue straight up, to an anchor in Ninnyhammer. 4 bolts.

This starts up a left-angling ramp below bolts on a slab to climber's right. At the roof, pull right onto the slab then step up into a large right-facing corner. Follow the corner until, near the end, you encounter a bolt to the right of the corner. Use this bolt to protect moves up and right into another right-facing corner. From the top of this, continue almost directly up, past a hidden gear placement at the back of small horizontal, then another bolt to the anchors.

About 31m climbing, but the lower-off is more direct, so generally goes on a 60m rope -- but tie a knot in the end.

A rope leads from an access anchor at the top to the anchor for Felix Felicis.

Most of the climb goes on gear, three bolts to start and two more (separate places) higher up. The first 5 metres or so are about 5.8, with interesting balancy moves. There are no gear placement options in this part. The rest of the route goes at about 5.2-5.7 with gear placement options throughout.

Pull up a short steep opening onto a slab. Mantle the shelf on the left and continue straight up (alternatively you can bypass this headwall by going right along it at the bottom to a bolt behind it). Up easier climbing to a short steep section(crux), then easier climbing to anchors. Most of the climb goes around 5.7 to 5.9, while the crux is 5.10b. The crux can be climbed either on the left or the right of the cleaned rock. In each case finding the crucial decent holds is a bit tricky.

This is a traditional Trad experince - it does NOT have a bolted mid-pitch anchor (sling a tree), does not have a bolted final anchor (again, a tree - though a couple bolted anchors can be used as variant finishes).

Start a couple meters left of "A Story For Jan".

1. Climb about 3m up a short slab until you can traverse rightwards, passing above the start of "A Story for Jan". Continue rightwards along the ledge, stepping over a small gap until you are pretty much directly below a largish oak tree (trunk about 30cm/1foot in diameter). Climb up past thin cracks to the tree and belay. 10m.

2. Pass the tree on the left, up some short vertical cracks, then step right to the base of a large obvious right-facing corner. Climb up this corner (about 20m) until it ends, on a platform. At this point there are choices... escape up and left to the anchors for "A Story for Jan", or continue... step right to a small ledge on good holds, then continue upwards. You will next come to the anchors for "Rhovanion" -- you can belay here, or continue up past them to a final steep section (possibly the crux of the whole climb) and finish at the top of the cliff. Belay on a tree. 33m.

Can be linked as one long pitch -- but it is not recommended due to rope drag.

Starts up a short steep face, before moving left onto a small platform and up a left-facing corner.

* When pulling the rope, try to pull from the left, as the crack right of bolt two has a tendency to eat ropes. *

Top anchor has a short approach rope for the traverse to or from the climbing anchor. Best option to rappel to the bottom of cliff as it's one pitch and closer to get to than UK-Swiss Confederation.

1-pitch from the mid-cliff anchor (which is also the end anchor for Pelennor") to the anchor. Doesn't top-out the cliff.

Starts left from the anchor.

Climb up trending consistently left up the face on good holds, until you pull onto a short slab. Finish directly up to the anchor above the next short face.

1-pitch from the mid-cliff anchor (which is also the end anchor for "Pelennor") to the top of the cliff, sharing Arnor's top anchor.

Starts directly up from the anchor.

Climb up from the anchor until approaching a steep bulge; step down and right, then then up to a dihedral that breaks through the bulge on newly exposed rock. Follow the fresh rock up through a series of steps to the cliff-top anchor shared with Arnor.

Climbs left of P1 of "Arnor" to the mid-cliff anchor where "Rhovanion" and "Ithilien" start.

Do a couple easy moves to a dirt ledge, where the climbing starts. Technical climbing past a small bulge and overlap, to a rest. Then slab towards the roof. Pull the roof, then pockety face to the anchors.

Can be combined with "Ithilien" or "Rhovanion" to make a 2-pitch climb.

From the top, it descends skiers left from anchors on a small knob at the obvious high point of the wall. (There is now a 2nd line of bolts sharing the top anchor - -it is an in-progress route. Stay right when rappelling off the anchor for Arnor.)

Start below a short right-facing corner.

1. 5.9, 20m. 12 bolts. Climb to the corner and then the corner (far too short) to a small ledge. Up and right across a slab to a small bulge with a tooth of rock hanging down. Pass the bulge right of the tooth, to a 2-bolt belay.

2. 5.8. 25m. 8 bolts. Climb up easier ground to a vertical face, then more easy ground to a thin finish.

Climb the obvious large left-facing dihedral up the center of left wing. Start on easy ground up to the crux section near the end of the route.

Going to go up the arete and slab to its right. Still under development, needing cleaning and bolts.

The route starts on the boulder to climber's right of "You Can't Judge a Book by its Cover", in between the poplar and small cedar. Go up the slab, trending right and up towards a large detached flake, then continue up terraces until the final slab and anchor.

A rope-stretcher on a 60m -- tie a knot in the end of your rope.

A bit of 5.4 climbing at the start and end -- easier for the rest, but pleasant and interesting climbing.

Starts off the ledge a few meters right of Indecision...

Pull up onto the dark-stained rock, then climb past a mixture of short steep sections, ledges, and slabs.

Probably about 5.6, has yet to be lead.

Follow the base of cliff from Arnor for about 100 m (First a bit steeply down, then straight along the base of the cliff). Look for the first line of bolts, up a slab, then over a slight overhang and more slab to a steep finish. Starts at about 5.7 and gets progressively harder to the 5.10b finish.

Start at the tree trunk few meter left of Follow Your Bliss. Follow the right leaning flakes then straight up to a bolt. Pass the slab crux and climb the corner down bellow the the roof. Pull the roof to a bolt then the anchor. The protection is generally good, but it require small gear placement.

Look for the bolt line on the first big open face of rock coming from the left section of main cliff (after about a 100 m walk from Arnor). Follow black streak on slab, over a bulge. Then some easier ground to the top section on the right edge of a prominent overhang to anchor on ledge above. The top section is 5.10a, while below it mostly goes around 5.8.

This route is in remembrance of Loren Baribeau, who introduced Simon McMillan to Joseph Campbell and his call to "Follow your Bliss".

Despite the name this is a beautiful route! Route begins on a textured slab below a roof a few metres right of "Follow Your Bliss". Above roof you can spot a protruding pinkish chunk of rock with short wide crack splitting it through the middle. Good gear placement in all the trad sections.

1. 13 m, 2 bolts. Go up the slab and clear roof. Then aim slight right and and up through the wide crack and get on ledge with vegetation to the bolted anchor.

2. 25 m, 5 bolts. Go up on slab following bolt line, aiming for distinct right facing corner with a narrow seam at the bottom. Follow the corner with seam widening to a hand crack. Gain the overhang and traverse underneath to the right. When you reach the arete climb up on easier rock and top out.

To find the top anchor from above, starting at end of the rope on the scramble down to Main Cliff, turn skier's left and follow the bottom of the upper step (marked with tape) until you encounter a cairn (after about 40 m). Scramble down towards the cliff face, and you should spot a rope attached to a tree. Follow the rope down and skier's left to the top anchors of the climb.

This is a loose gully that provides an approach to "Gully Wall" (that section is roped) and could also be used to get to the base of "TnA Wall", or to exit without doing a climb. But, you are generally better to rappel in and climb out, with the easiest choice being "Sunday Morning Stroll".

From the base of "TnA Wall", walk climbers right until an obvious wide, treed, gully is visible going up and rightwards. Climb this 3rd class gully to the top.

From the top, this is harder to find, and there are other gullies that get dangerously steep if you choose the wrong one. It is skiers' left of the of where the approach trail from parking meets the ridge trail, about 200 meters, and angles down and rightwards. It is the first wide (15m) gully that drops down. It starts about when the ridge line starts to drop.

This was originally, perhaps misleadingly, called "Easy way up/down".

Start a short scramble down and left from the start of "Another Brick in the Wall", bolt for belayer.

Climb a short sequence of 5.4 moves past 3 bolts, then an easy (5.1ish), well-protected 20m romp to the anchors.

A good climb for learning to lead on gear.

This climb does not easily top-out. (Well, it mostly does, but with no easy trail back to the rest of the top-outs.)

At the far left end of the ledge below Pink Floyd wall (left end of the safety rope) there is a groove that heads up and rightwards.

Climb up the groove, passing above and left of the large cedar. Cross "Ummagumma" clipping one bolt, then up the thin crack in the face right of the arete.

Start about 5m right of "Another Brick in the Wall", below and right of a large cedar tree growing low out of the cliff.

Climb the right-facing corner or slab to its right passing below then left of the cedar tree. Continue up the left-facing wall in the gully, clipping bolts high and right, stemming in the corner as needed. (Climbing only the right wall in the gully is probably about 5.7.)

Right of Ummagumma is a left-facing dihedral where the left wall starts as slab and turns into roof. Climb the corner and pull over the roof, then up the crack above.

A few meters right of "Camalot" is another left-facing corner, about a meter right of a birch tree sticking out from the cliff about 1m off the ledge.

Climb the short slab and/or left-facing corner to start, then bulges directly above the corner to a blunt arete. Continue up the blunt arete to anchors. For full value, don't use the corner/crack of Camalot.

Bolts run close to the bolts for "Shine on You Crazy Diamond", but this line generally climbs left of that bolt line.

Starts left of the birch, and shares the first 2-3 bolts (depnding on exactly how you choose to climb it) with "Stolen Land". Below the third bolt, rather than continuing upwards, step down and right, and pull onto the face above the low roof. Then continue up and right to the next bolt near a horn. From there, continue up and right to a platform, then back left up a shallow dihedral with a thin & broken crack in the back.

At times, the bolts for this run confusingly close to the bolts for "Stolen Land", but this climb generally runs to the right of the bolts in that section.

In the middle of the low overhang is a small notch. Pull up through the notch on small holds to easier going on the slab above. Continue up to the next roof above, and pull over that as well.

Might still want a bit more cleaning on the upper section

6 bolts to anchor, 7 to top-out anchor.

This route starts just at the right edge of the low overhang, where it turns upwards to be the start of "Escapism".

Pull onto the face. Climb upwards towards the right side of the overhang above, climb up this stay to the left edge of the dihedral and on the face. Pull up onto a ledge with a notch near the left edge, then up easier ground to anchors, or continue to the top.

From the start of "Welcome to the Machine", which is the right-most route accessible from the safety rope, follow the edge of the wall up and right until you reach a line of bolts proceeding up an angular corner. (If you continue up and right, next line of bolts is "Wish You Were Here", which is significantly harder.)

Climb the corner, pulling out left onto the slab at the top. Then angle back right above the corner and up to an anchor.

Can top-out, but leaves a bit of an exposed scramble at the top - not recommended.

Climb the obvious arete and face to the right of it. Do not go left onto the slab, that's (un)Comfortably Numb - 5.6.

On Pink Floyd wall, looks out over TnA wall.

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

Look for a large right-facing wall at the top of the cliff and extending part way down, this climb aims for the face just right of that wall. Start up a ramp on higher ground, right of that face.

Climb leftwards up a wide easy slab with vegetated cracks towards the right-facing wall. (Minimal gear, but easy climbing.) At the wall, turn rightwards and climb up the clean rock on good holds to the top, exiting slightly left at the top, to a cedar tree for belay.

There is a cluster of 5 (oak) trees at the base of the cliff. This climb starts just up and left of the cluster of trees.

This climb starts up initially over a series of blocky ledges, following generally easy climbing, and eventually passing left of the bulges near the top of the cliff.

Start below the big roof just right of Sunday Morning Stroll. Climb up slabs and grooves to the roof, pull the roof, then finish more easily.

First ascended on gear. Bolted by suggestion of FA.

At the base below the left side of the the left tit are a pair of parallel right-leaning grooves. The climb starts up the right-side one, then up passing a gnarled tree to the right and up past the left side of the left tit.

This climb does not easily top-out.

Start about 5m right of "Big Finish", climb up a short steep section to easier ground then up a dark-coloured groove to a small bulge. Continue up another inside-corner to the obvious larger roof. Pull this near the left edge, then up and right following the obvious right-facing corner.

As a variant, pulling the roof direct probably goes at 5.10-.

This climb does not easily top-out.

Route development: Kate Hunt: most of the cleaning, David Gibbs: bolting, a bit of cleaning.

Looking up at the cliff, there are a pair of overhangs/bulges split in the middle such that they look like a pair of breasts. This climb breaks the overhang through the cleavage in the middle. Start at a bolt line directly below this cleavage.

Climb up blocky ledges to the first bulge, pull over this then up the less vertical face above to the notch in the roof. Wiggle your way through the cleavage then up and right in the groove, or on the arete to the right, until the groove ends, then straight up to the anchors.

Note: TnA used to have a bit of a run-out to the anchor, but nowadays, people generally borrow/share the last bolt of "Kate and David's Excellent Adventure" if they're worried.

This is a real rope-stretcher on a 60m rope -- tie a knot and prepare to scramble, or prefer a 70m rope.

Starts at a bright-white section of rock up a bit of a scramble. First bolt can also be used for belayer to clip-in.

Head up over easy blocky ground towards a small roof; pull over it directly at the bolt or a bit right of it. Continue upwards toward the right end of a larger roof. After pulling this, angle back left towards anchors shared with "Tits 'n' Ass".

Can be climbed with a 60m rope if belayer is prepared to scramble up a bit on the lower-off. Knot your rope in this case.

Climb the clear path excavated from the dirt over a couple sloping ledges to a corner then series of corners and bulges above.

Fun climbing that gets steadily harder until you reach the crux 5.8 (maybe 5.8+) bulge.

Anchor is just short of the top of the cliff. To top out continue up and left a couple meters to the "Tits 'n' Ass" anchors (chains).

Goes on a 70m rope, but tie a knot. If you're short draws, it is pretty easy going for the first couple clips, so they can easily be skipped.

Down and right from the ramp that easy street and the other climbs start from, a rib of rock descends an extra few meters into the forest. The climb starts at the base of this rib, and goes mostly directly upwards from there, though it does wander a bit rightwards at a dihedral, then traverse back leftwards at the end of this.

Route is a rope-stretcher on a 70m rope.

Climb/TR/Lower-off anchor is about 2m from actual top-out. Use this one, unless actually topping out, then the higher anchor on the platform works.

After being a TR route, this spent a while as a trad line but, on gear, the route was a bit run-out in places, and gear was often small and/or tricky to place, though generally with decent stances for placing. So, retro-bolted in 2020 with permission of the FA.

When this route was first climbed on TR, there were two large loose stacks of rock near the route, the first (lower down) to the left of the route, and the 2nd farther up to the right of the route. This route was named because it travelled carefully between the two scary monsters.

Starts about 5m (15') right and slightly down from "Scylla and Charybdis", with a belayer bolt, since the ground is a bit steep.

Follow the many many bolts up then trending left, past a couple bulges and much interesting climbing.

This route is 38m, it is a close rope-stretcher on a 70m rope. To climb from the bottom and lower, lower straight down (basically the "Scylla and Charybdis" line) rather than following the path of the route down. Also, consider using long slings on the anchor.

Using extended draws (alpine quickdraws) and/or long quickdraws around roofs and along traverses helps with rope drag and makes it easier to pull the rope. (Yes, rope management skills aren't just for trad climbers!)

Due to the traversing nature of the route, it does not make for a good rappel from the top nor a good top-rope, unless careful to maintain directionals.

The route is named after the musical "Come From Away", a story about Newfoundlanders hosting stranded passengers during 9/11.

Starts about 4m left of "Nightcap".

Climb onto the short slab, then up the steep rock on good holds to finish up the slab above; anchor is below a boulder.

Close-bolted and a good beginner lead.

Starts on top of a juniper bush below and right of a square groove through a small bulge about 4m up.

Climb up on to the slab and angle left to the square groove. Climb up this towards the obvious arete, and at the end of the groove step left onto the slab below the arete. Continue up the slab left of the arete to the anchors.

Once finished this climb, it is easy to lower or rappel to the bench and safety rope at the top of it.

Starts about half way between the end of the approach rope and the corner.

Climb past two bolts to a small ledge, then past one more to the anchors below the Juniper bush.

Short, but sweet.

At the top of the broad slab is a small foot-ramp heading up and right, and a bolt for the belayer. Climb up this for a few meter to a blocky corner, then up the blocky corner to the horizontal break. At the break, traverse right about 2m, crossing the line of "Digestif" then up the good holds on the right side of the upper face to finish.

Juggy fun, with good gear -- a good early trad lead.

Bolted anchor.

Starts at the far right side of the cliff section, at a belayer bolt. Start up over a couple small ledges to a shallow scooped slab, then continue up this to the horizontal break. At the break, step left a couple meters, crossing the line of "Apéritif", to below some left-facing rails on the upper face. Climb up this harder face to finish.

This climb is on the left of the slabby wall on the left of the "Scramble Up" gully (head up the gully for a few metres and then go about 10 m along the wall).

Start up the slab under the arête. Stay to the right of the big block, or transition to the face on the left of the arete, then traverse over to the roof. Stay under the roof and head left into the dihedral (crux) and up for 5 m or so. To get to the anchor you DON'T go left again, but gain the arete to the right of the dihedral at the point where the dihedral flattens out and would become a trivial climb.

Bolted anchor which you only see once you are on the arete. There are good gear options but bring your small stuff.

About 40m left of "Stairway to Hell", there is a rightwards rising ramp/scramble. This gives access to the top of the climbs along Lower Cliff.

The scramble is rough, and leads across a loose scree field, so is not a good choice if there is anyone below the Stairway to Hell area.

Starts as per "Diggy Diggy Hole", but once established below the slab, head up and left across a dirty ledge to a hand-crack angling up and left, finishing at the big cedar tree. No bolted anchor yet.

Can be lead Trad all the way but you can borrow bolts from Diggy Diggy Hole until halfway up. Good warmup.

Cleaned fall 2023

Start as per Stairway to Hell, then follow bolts up the slab heading slightly right. Anchor can be accessed from above if you sling the birch as a safety to step down.

Recleaned Fall 2023.

Shared start with Diggy Diggy Hole. About 10 meters left of "Mercy Street" is a section of vertical to overhanging rock that looks like an upside-down staircase. The route starts up this.

Pull up the upside-down staircase, onto a bit of a platform and a dirty ascent for a few meters, to the base of a wide right-sloping crack full of garden. Keep heading right until you reach an overlap tending up and slightly left, follow toward the exit where we rejoin "Diggy Diggy Hole" for the bolted anchor.

Recleaned Fall 2023.

Same start as Stairway to Hell, but keep following the crack angling up and right instead of turning left. Finish on the bolted anchor for Zeit.

At the start of "Stairway to Hell", climb the central staircase, over the highest point on the upper ledge, without using either of the "rails" to either side.

Just right of "Stairway to Hell" is a line of weakness in the rock rising up to the right.

Climb up and right past two bolts (crux is at first bolt) then follow a right-facing corner until you reach the open slab with an obvious crack line going up and rightwards. Follow the crack to the anchor shared with "Giggles". Takes good gear. Everything past the opening crux, which is bolted, climbs at about 5.6.

Recleaned spring 2021.

Just left of Mercy Street. Tricky boulder problem to start until you get a good hold. You may think that start is harder than 5.9 but when you figure it out it all makes sense. Then head for the overhanging section above. Gain the ledge and continue on the upper face to the bolted anchor.

Starts just left of Giggles through an overhang. Then through a shelf and up the slab. Opening sequence pulling the bulge is 10a, into sustained less-than-vertical 5.8 climbing.

Anchor accessible from the top if you sling one of the cedars for safety to step down to it.

Climb up the bolted arete and face just left of "Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle". You can access the anchor from the top by slinging one of the cedars for safety to step down to it.

In the upper area of the cliff are three obvious dihedrals, sharing aretes. Below these, near the base of the cliff is a small roof with a crack that runs along the back and up the right side. This climb starts below that roof. Just right of Giggles.

Climb up the face to the small shelf and the up to the roof, pull through the roof using the wide crack, then continue up the dihedral above. (Historically this was "Dave Direct".)

Variant (original route, 5.8): at the roof, traverse right to the end of the roof, then climb up the right side then back left to rejoin the direct line above the roof. Be careful to extend gear or rope drag can be brutal. Bolted anchor is accessible from above.

Recleaned February 2021.

A few metres left of Slab O'Doom 2.0 start up the a small bulge to holds just left of a small platform. Step left from this onto a slab then up beside the roof of Dave, Dave -- keeping the crack to your left. Pull up into the centre dihedral, climb this, then finish at the Dave anchor.

Recleaned and bolted in April 2021.

Climb the slab right of "Dave Dave Dave of the Jungle". Start near a set of small pockets, and climb up those trending slightly leftwards. Then follow bolts left up the slab beside the dihedral and finish above it to the bolted anchor.

The crux is the first section of the slab.

Originally climbed on top-rope in 2011, but the crag stopped getting visited without an approach that didn't involve a boat. Simon started working on revitalizing Lower Cliff in 2021, and added an extension up and left, while maintaining the original crux start, and also added bolts. Now, it is the new, improved, version 2.0.

Just right of "Slab o' Doom" is a small ledge about two meters above the ground. Start from the lower ground with a few tricky moves onto the ledge, then straight up the lighter-coloured stone above the ledge through a line of shallow pockets and small edges, keeping to the left of the obvious dark streak. Follow cleaned rock straight up to the bolted anchor. The anchor is accessible from the top by following a good ledge. Some may want to use a stick clip to protect the first few moves.

(Local colour: the route was named Little Lion Face after Kate Hunt's cat Willy, AKA Little Lion Face, who had been put down a few days before the first ascent.)

Recleaned May 2021.

Follow the black streak on the right edge of the slab just right of where the rising overlap starts. Interesting moves on finger pockets and small holds for most of it. The climb is fairly consistent with some spots to rest though.

Can be accessed from the top by rappelling down from the Little Lion Face anchor.

Right-most bolted climb. Head up a short wall, then over the very distinctive wide crack into the thin slab section. Gain the overlap near the top to finish on easier ground to the anchor.

To the left of the cliff is a small, flat-topped rock with a seam at the front. Grab and mantle out of the water.

(Protection a bit thin when water level is low -- this is a spring problem. )

There is a series of solid hand-holds and edges running from the left-side of the front of the main rock to almost the right side. It can be traversed in either direction -- feet are generally just above water level for the traverse, and hands are generallly 1-2m above water level.

The traverse is about 4m long, but the "height" is probably not more than 2m.

About 1.5m left of the obvious curving crack is a smaller series of holds and irregularities leading up to the top of the main boulder.

On the face of the boulder is an obvious curving crack leading upwards. Climb this until it thins out, then pull over the bulge as the rock smooths out and holds disappear.

There is a smaller face just to the right of the main boulder, that doesn't go as high and is just slightly less than vertical. Climb this face, starting in the center and heading mostly straight upwards or a bit left.

Start in the center of the right wall, but trending rightwards, half in the lichen.

The right wall has an arrete at the right side of it, as it turns again to be more parallel to the shore. Climb the arete.

Start at the right end of the front of the rock to the right, and establish on the crack that breaks the edge. Traverse rising up and right with hands on or around the edge between the overhang and slab, and feet on the overhanging section.

Runs parallel to, but above, the previous route: traverse with feet along the edge between the overhang and the slab, mostly on the slab.

Leftmost of the routes, up obvious holds to a ledge under a small roof, pull through the roof on good holds, then balance to clip on bad hands (crux) and finish.

Now, with bolts!

There is an obvious curving edge in the cliff. Start at the bottom of the right end.

Climb up and right following the curve, then up, then back left following the top of the curving edge. At the end, pull up onto the slanting ledge, then through the upper roof at a blocky section.

1 bolt added as re-direct for TR to keep the rope off the sharp edges.

Both Gs are silent.

Climb the bolt route up the centre of the black-stained wall, trending rightwards on the ramp at the top, to a 2-bolt anchor (with quick links) in the upper head-wall.

Climb the slightly smaller holds nearer the right side of the cliff, pulling straight over two small roofs.

Bolt added near top as a TR re-direct.

A wandering exploration up the cliff -- from a convenient tree anchor. Lower sections, probably 5.10ish, after the initial section, about 5.6.

Start about center on the cliff, below the left end of an obvious roof about 15m up. Struggle up through initial ledges, perhaps using a tree, or belayer-assist. Then aiming to head up towards a spot near the left end of the roof, pull through or avoid on the small arete to the left, then up to the top.

Another route. Start close to route one, though stay right of the tree. Pull some thin moves through the initial ledges (5.10ish, probably, if dry & cleaned) then aim for the corner to the right of the roof. Climb the corner, eventually pulling left onto the face above the roof & climb to the top. 5.7ish after the initial ledges.

Look for a low flake with a missing rock scar at the top of the flake.

Climb up the flake (take gear), then up the slab above (no gear). Belay at tree and large rock above and right from top edge.

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

From TnA wall.

So named because when I went to grab a piece of rock to throw off on the FA, it wriggled out of my fingers before I could put it back on the wall, and I shouted "frog" (instead of "rock"). Of course, it was probably a toad, not a frog.

Start at the base of the cliff, below the ramp, just about vertically below the right-end of the slanting dihedral at the top of the cliff (that is the top of "Easy Street"). Climb up the short wall to the ramp, accross the loose rock of the ramp, then basically straight up. In the lower sections, keep to the good rock, avoiding dirt/moss/vegetation as possible. This stays right of the route of Easy street the whole way, just meeting up for the last couple of moves and top-out.

historical

From TnA wall.

The flat rock has been destroyed by trundling from above, and the start has been re-directed farther right and more direct as the next route. This record maintained for historical reasons.

Looking up at the cliff, to the right of the big right-facing wall, is a pair of bulges that look a lot like breasts, even to the extent of having cleavage in the middle (which "Tits 'n' Ass" climbs through). This route passes to the left of the left breast.

Scramble up to a flat rock sitting between the cliff and a cluster of trees. This makes a good belay stance, and the climb starts just to the right of this. Climb up the right-sloping dihedral ramp, with moss in the middle avoiding the moss, then when it ends, head more straight upwards, aiming to pass just to the left of the left breast, then up from there to the top. Build an anchor from a cluster of trees and a crack in a rock just below the trees (pink tri-cam).

The climbing is easy at the start, but the finish gets a lot more interesting.

historical

From TnA wall.

T'n'A originally avoided the first roof/bulge, starting to the left of the current line, but is no longer climbed that way.

Was on right end of Pink Floyd Wall.

Scramble up right of the overhang, until you reach a ramp. Pull up onto the ramp, climb the ramp, then escape up and over to the left. Up a couple moves will bring you to the base of a pair of dihedrals. Climb the left dihedral, escaping it leftwards near the top, then finish on easier ground.

From "Left Wing" -> "Main Cliff"

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

Start below some low roofs on the wall, about 5m left of the large left-facing dihedral.

Go up a left-facing crack, then traverse up and right towards a large flake, about 1m below the roofs. Up past the height of the roofs, then angle leftwards above the roofs following the path of least resistance and available placements, up to and over a small stand of trees, then up through a notch and finally exit rightwards to some trees just above the top of the dihedral.

From "Left Wing" -> "Main Cliff"

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

Follow a direct line up the cliff where Wandering Frog wanders a bit more, following gear and easier climbing.

From "Left Wing" -> "Main Cliff"

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

Look for a large detached flake (up to body-width seperated at the top of it) that climbs about 4-5m up from the base. Climb this, then step from it across onto the main face. Climb fairly directly up from there, staying to the left of the large (3m high) completed detached pillar/block about 1/2 way up the face. (Not obviously just-sitting-there from the bottom, but is so as you climb past it.)

This is a rope-stretcher for a 70m rope, but the opening couple of meters or so to the base of the detached flake can be scrambled.

From "Left Wing" -> "Main Cliff"

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

Climb the face about 5m right of Scintille -- staying right of the large detached block.

From "Left Wing" -> "Main Cliff"

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

About 5m further over from "One Tree Over".

A short section of good climbing to the right of some dark streaks in the rock.

(Top-rope by re-direction rightwards from the top anchor of Scintille.)