Routes in Lac Sam for selected grade

(deh-ray-cho)

Starts just right of "Microburst".

Climb cracks and ledges angling up and right, until you can pull up onto a ledge right of the roof. Then angle left and up to the bolted anchor.

Could use another light brushing, but climbable.

This is a traditional Trad experince - it does NOT have a bolted mid-pitch anchor (sling a tree), does not have a bolted final anchor (again, a tree - though a couple bolted anchors can be used as variant finishes).

Start a couple meters left of "A Story For Jan".

1. Climb about 3m up a short slab until you can traverse rightwards, passing above the start of "A Story for Jan". Continue rightwards along the ledge, stepping over a small gap until you are pretty much directly below a largish oak tree (trunk about 30cm/1foot in diameter). Climb up past thin cracks to the tree and belay. 10m.

2. Pass the tree on the left, up some short vertical cracks, then step right to the base of a large obvious right-facing corner. Climb up this corner (about 20m) until it ends, on a platform. At this point there are choices... escape up and left to the anchors for "A Story for Jan", or continue... step right to a small ledge on good holds, then continue upwards. You will next come to the anchors for "Rhovanion" -- you can belay here, or continue up past them to a final steep section (possibly the crux of the whole climb) and finish at the top of the cliff. Belay on a tree. 33m.

Can be linked as one long pitch -- but it is not recommended due to rope drag.

1-pitch from the mid-cliff anchor (which is also the end anchor for "Pelennor") to the top of the cliff, sharing Arnor's top anchor.

Starts directly up from the anchor.

Climb up from the anchor until approaching a steep bulge; step down and right, then then up to a dihedral that breaks through the bulge on newly exposed rock. Follow the fresh rock up through a series of steps to the cliff-top anchor shared with Arnor.

At the far left end of the ledge below Pink Floyd wall (left end of the safety rope) there is a groove that heads up and rightwards.

Climb up the groove, passing above and left of the large cedar. Cross "Ummagumma" clipping one bolt, then up the thin crack in the face right of the arete.

Start about 5m right of "Another Brick in the Wall", below and right of a large cedar tree growing low out of the cliff.

Climb the right-facing corner or slab to its right passing below then left of the cedar tree. Continue up the left-facing wall in the gully, clipping bolts high and right, stemming in the corner as needed. (Climbing only the right wall in the gully is probably about 5.7.)

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

Look for a large right-facing wall at the top of the cliff and extending part way down, this climb aims for the face just right of that wall. Start up a ramp on higher ground, right of that face.

Climb leftwards up a wide easy slab with vegetated cracks towards the right-facing wall. (Minimal gear, but easy climbing.) At the wall, turn rightwards and climb up the clean rock on good holds to the top, exiting slightly left at the top, to a cedar tree for belay.

There is a cluster of 5 (oak) trees at the base of the cliff. This climb starts just up and left of the cluster of trees.

This climb starts up initially over a series of blocky ledges, following generally easy climbing, and eventually passing left of the bulges near the top of the cliff.

Was on right end of Pink Floyd Wall.

Scramble up right of the overhang, until you reach a ramp. Pull up onto the ramp, climb the ramp, then escape up and over to the left. Up a couple moves will bring you to the base of a pair of dihedrals. Climb the left dihedral, escaping it leftwards near the top, then finish on easier ground.

From "Left Wing" -> "Main Cliff"

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

Climb the face about 5m right of Scintille -- staying right of the large detached block.