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Access issues inherited from Lion's Head

Access in Ontario is VERY SENSITIVE. Please climb with care and respect for the crag and other users. Practice Leave No Trace. Check with the OAC at ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca to keep updated on access issues.

Approach

From Headspace Area - approach to the top of Merchants and Thieves area is between 10-15 minutes

Ethic inherited from Lion's Head

Practice LEAVE NO TRACE at all times. Pack out what you pack in. Carry a plastic bag to collect garbage on the way out, if possible. There are no washroom facilities at this crag.

Be mindful of your group size and noise. Keep party numbers to a minimum - avoid playing loud music while at the cliff given that accessing climbs requires rappelling and line-fixing, other climbing parties need to be able communicate without having to contend with artificial noise.

Car-camping (and Van-Life) are not permitted in town or its surrounding areas.

This is a recommended resource in regards to local ethics https://www.rockrespect.ca/climbers-code

Want to contribute to route development? Go to the Ontario Climbing page and contribute to the Hardware Fund (or grab a printed guidebook while helping out!) https://www.ontarioclimbing.com/

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Porter Jarrard

Dihedral to ledge with multiple finish variations in Thunderball or the Lighthouse Pitch.

L2 after Storm Warning.

L2 after Storm Warning.

FA: Dave Zuly & Leslie Timms

This lines breaks right off of the start of Ripple Effect.

Set: Mike Penney

This line traverses on huge hueco features to a roof lip turn crux.

FA: Mike Smyth

The direct finish of Ego effect.

FA: Mike Smyth

Unrepeated.

FA: Sonnie Trotter

Variation through the huge overhang bolted by Daniel Martian.

FA: Colin Lipowitz

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Activity

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