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Summary

Quartzite crag with both sports and trad routes

Description

The crag is 500 meters long and averages 20m in height. It is located about 20 minutes south of Jasper along Highway 93A. The crag faces west looking into the Whirlpool River drainage, with Mt Edith Cavell being visible on a clear day. On hot days, arrive early as the crag gets very hot after 1pm. The climbing season is around May-September.

Access issues

Be aware of bears in the area. The crag is located in Jasper National Park. Thus, pack everything out that was brought in. Additionally, you need to have a National Park Pass to stop anywhere in Jasper National Park. These can be purchased at the park gates when you arrive.

Approach

Drive south from Jasper on Highway 93 for approximately 7km. Turn west onto Highway 93A and follow this for around 25km. You will pass the turn-off for Edith Cavell. Approximately 200m from Leech Lake there is a small dirt parking lot.

The trail entrance is at the back left corner of the parking lot. Follow the trail for approximately 20-25 minutes (relatively flat walk). The trail eventually descends to the bottom of the wall. Continue following along the bottom of the cliff for another 5 minutes until you reach the first routes.

Where to stay

Jasper has a number of campgrounds in the surrounding National Park. Additionally, many homestays and hotels are available. Visit http://www.jasper.travel/where-to-stay/hotels+cabins or http://www.pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/ab/jasper/visit/loger-stay.aspx for more information. Note that there is no free camping in the National Park. The campsites are reasonably priced and have good facilities.

Jasper itself provides the best location for picking up food supplies. It has two grocery stores and some specialty stores for food allergies.

Ethic

Setting up top-ropes can be dangerous as many anchors are set back from the top of the cliff. Large rap bolts exist at the top of most climbs, with only a few trad routes requiring raps off trees.

Please respect that this is a local crag: any bolting should be run past the locals. Additionally, it is illegal to cut or remove vegetation - this must be avoided at all costs.

History

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It was discovered by locals looking for another crag in 1994.

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Routes

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Mixed climb requiring a large cam. Up the corner.

FA: B. Czobitko & S. Stanko, 1999

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