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Description

Routes located on or near the anvil which is located at the northern end of the crag.

Access issues inherited from Ontario

In the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. The Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) monitors this, and negotiates for access to cliffs, or to avoid closures. They maintain a crag status list at: https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/crag-status/

The Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry also maintains an online crown land use policy atlas. This can often be used to determine the ownership status of the land on which a cliff is located in Ontario. It can be found at: http://www.giscoeapp.lrc.gov.on.ca/web/MNR/NHLUPS/CLUPA/Viewer/Viewer.html .

Ethic inherited from Beaver Valley

Leave no trace and tread lightly! Please refer to https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/climbers/getting-outside

Red tagged route: do not touch - route is a closed project and/or bolting is unfinished (i.e. dangerous).

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Routes

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Grade Route

All Routes are Ordered from Climbers left to right starting from the bolted 5.9/5.10a arete

FA: Martin Siedenshmid

FA: Brian Bergman

FA: Brian Bergman

Climb the obvious big crack. Big holds, nice layback. Continue over the bulge to anchor chains.

Same trad start shared with Old Sir. Once on the ramp after the short finger crack, clip the bolt under the roof and begin your push upward. Fun traverse along the roof before pulling over the mantle at the crux bolt.

Note: Anchors my have been removed, possible to use Old Sir's slightly to the right. Slightly runout on the easy climbing above the last bolt, but possible to place some gear if needed.

Start in the wide overhanging crack to the right of El Camino Real. Once established on a large ledge follow the short finger crack up before traversing right along a nice ramp. Head straight up before running into the bolted line of Good Feathas.

First bolted line on the main wall to the climbers left of the anvil.

FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz, 2014

Climbs the inside corner of the anvil, to the climbers left of the gully.

FA: Martin Siedenshmid

Climb opposite of 'Strike Three'. Has a long run-out to the 3rd bolt with groundfall potential however the climbing is easy here. Stay left after the 2nd bolt. Shares the first two bolts with 'Pump it Hottie, Pump it'.

Shares a start with 'Revenge for the Fires'. Follows the bolt line on the right after the 2nd bolt.

Large prow directly across from Bob and Brian's. Easy climbing to the first bolt 30 ft up, to some 5.9 climbing, to an exposed V4 crux, talk about head space.

FA: Brian Bergman

5.7 Slab to right of judgement day to the first anchors and 5.11+ to the second anchors

FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz & Tibor Hargitai, 1997

Alternative second pitch to Snakelet. Go right at the anchors of the first pitch.

FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz & Graeme Taylor, 2014

FA: Martin Siedenshmid

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