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La Boite a Surprise

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 9
6

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Description

The cliff right behind the hut.

Access issues inherited from Montagne d'Argent

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $14 as of summer 2021, and yearly memberships ($70 as of 2021). Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members of certain sections may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Mixed route to the immediate left of La Gardienne. Follow bolt line to the rising traversing crack, bolted rap station at end of climb.

FA: unknown

Set: Yannick & Stephanie, 2015

FFA: Yannick Pesant & Stephanie Paquin, 2015

This former trad route is now bolted. Leftmost bolt line on the large slab at the right end of this little cliff. Starts up some blocky ledges to a zig-zag crack, finishing with a hand-to-fist crack straight up at the top.

FA: Louis Phillippe Blanchette, 1999

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1999

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1999

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1999

Rated 5.9 in the MdA guide but is consistent with 5.10b climbs here. Currently a bit dirty in the easy bottom part of the route. Really good tricky movement on thin holds above.

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1999

This cliff is unlocated

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