Central Wall

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 47



Access issues inherited from Mount Nemo

There is a top-roping ban in effect meaning that top-ropes may only be setup by a climber who has led the climb from the ground up. DO NOT SLING CEDARS and pad all other trees when building anchors.


This wall can be accessed by climbing down the Alfred Gully near the lookout. Once down, walk south (climber's left) past "Live Bait" along the cliff line on a small trail. No more than 5 minutes. The first sport routes you will encounter are Enchiridion and Ten Pound Lunker Bass.

Alternate approach: Walk south along trail from Alfred Gully for about another 100 feet on the main trail, there is access down the Central Gully. Look for a longish gully to climb down into. This gully is easier to climb out of than into - some stemming required. Once at the bass, to climber's right, Nicorette and to climber's left, Are you a Fireman? So why the big house?

Descent notes

Climb out of either Central Gully or hike back north to Alfred Gully and climb out there.



Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Short offwidth starting just left of Mean Streak. Pull through the overhang onto the ledge left for easy climbing to the top. Two rings about 2m climber's left at the top for lowering. Fun climbing with plenty of fist and foot jams, and solid gear placements - a great intro to trad.

Great climbing - tough onsight - hidden holds! Good moves and varied climbing through dark streaks in the rock. Nice long route. Steep and pumpy. Probably one of the best 11s in Ontario! Leftmost route on this wall. Coldshuts at top, difficult to clean due to 20' overhang (better to 2nd).

Good climbing but starts in a lot of choss. Large flake that looks like it is detaching at first clip. Hard moves into crack to overcome roof.

This route is climber's left of "Fireman"

First route climber's left of the gully.

Climbs the face of the prow that is climber's right of the Central Gully

Laybacking to a reachy crux, then easier climbing and good rest on your way to the top.

Boulder start with thin crimps to pockets. Good holds and then second boulder crux to gain face. Fun climbing!

FA: David Smart

Route to Climber's right of Enchiridion. Shares same anchors.

Climb Ten Pound Lunker Bass through the roof, without using the giant ledge/wall on the right. (This variation is noted in the guidebook).

Steep chimney crack climbing to the top. Climber's right of Enchiridion and Ten Pound Lunker Bass.

At the top, there are rap rings about 3m to climber's right, 2m below a dead tree trunk.

Dirty gully - climb to top

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Share this


Check out what is happening in Central Wall.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文