Big Gulp Area




The Big Gulp area runs from the large overhanging buttress that gives it the name to the north/west end of the climbed section of the cliff, at Ein Kleines Nacht Klettern. There is an easy scramble to the top of the cliff about 50m farther north/west than Ein Kleines Nacht Klettern.

Several of the old trad climbs here have been retro-bolted (with FA's permission) as sport climbs, making this a newly popular sport location with a number of moderate sport climbs.

Access issues inherited from Mount Nemo

There is a top-roping ban in effect meaning that top-ropes may only be setup by a climber who has led the climb from the ground up. DO NOT SLING CEDARS and pad all other trees when building anchors.


From the parking lot, hike to the lookout and take the path to the left to continue hiking northwards along the top of the cliff. Eventually, you will begin to descend into an area with logs lining the path where you can double back to an easy scramble, the 'Easy Way Down'. This drops you about 50m north/west of 'Ein Kleines Nacht Klettern'.

Descent notes

Most/all climbs have anchors to lower from.



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Grade Route

Start at no 49. Climb the corner up and right to a ledge. Continue up arching crack to some flakes and climb them to a ledge which leads to the top.

Start at no 49. Climb the corner up and right to a ledge. Continue up arching crack to some flakes and climb them and then straight through the cracks in the overhang to the top. (Recommended variant, but harder.)

Start at number 50 (which is hidden behind some cedars), a couple meters up and left of "Four No More". Climb the inside corner and gully to the top.

Start at number 51, at a small corner. Climb up past a couple pockets via cracks to the top.

The start is a bit hidden behind cedar trees.

This finishes on a wide grassy ledge -- need a gear anchor. To the right across the ledge is a double-bolt rap anchor that can be used for the descent.

Start with some moderate climbing to a high first bolt just above a small cave feature. Continues on small crimps and ledges to a few nice cracks and finishes with nice big victory jugs at the anchors.

Start at number 52. Get in the chimney, worm your way up.

Look for an obvious dirty red streak down from the top of the cliff -- climb up to and through this streak.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission.)

FA: Kevin Lawlor

FFA: Pete Reilly, Ziggy Isaac & Reg Smart, 1983

Shares start with Judy's ... and trends left after the third bolt.

Climb the right-facing crack and corner system on the right side of the overhangs.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission. Was originally graded 5.8.)

Start below a small, loose looking cave right of Judy's. Climb up following bolts past the cave.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission.)

FA: Harry Hoediono, 1985

Climb to a bolt under a roof, traverse left, up onto the face, then right around the blunt arete and up to the anchors.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission. Was originally graded 5.8.)

Climb into the gully and walk along it's bottom to the back. Then climb up some easy terrain and exit out the small hole to find yourself on the top of 'Palm Sunday' and at an easy rap station for 'Wormhole'. Getting out the hole with a backpack is likely to be a challenge.

Climb the blocks to a nice finger sized crack. Pleasant jams lead up the crack to big jugs around the anchors. Pro is fantastic in the crack but practically non-existent for the first 25' (easy easy 5th class)

Climb up blocky ledges to a slabbier head wall.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission.)

Climb blocky ledges left of Bei Tagelischt

Set: James Walker, 2017

Start 3m left of the obvious Ein Kleines Nacht Klettern.

Climb up flakes to and crack to an overhang. Pull over the bulge (crux) and up the headwall to anchors.

(Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission.)

Start below an obvious short hand crack above an overhang about 3m up. Climb the blocks to the overhang, and climb the crack to the top.

About 200m right of "Ein Klienes Nacht Klettern". A very easy descent for the northern part of the cliff.


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