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Alfred's Wall

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 201
  • Aka: The Club Wall

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Mount Nemo

There is a top-roping ban in effect meaning that top-ropes may only be setup by a climber who has led the climb from the ground up. DO NOT SLING CEDARS and pad all other trees when building anchors.

Approach

The standard approach is 'Alfreds Gully'.

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Routes

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Grade Route

High first bolt to the left of the two trees. Even throughout for the grade, with multiple different types of cruxy elements. Delicate traverse on small holds, awkward balancy mantel, small crimp face climbing.

Climb to the ledge to the bolt between the two trees. The crux is about 2/3 up the route, making it a bit of a hard endurance push for climbers working the grade. Ledge can also be gained from far left by Stand & Deliver.

Pumpy overhanging bouldery problem. Key pockets sometimes wet under roof. Split off left to Live Bait or right to ledge for As You Like it to finish.

Uneven route with 2 bolts' worth of 10c at top and bottom each of the grade, easier in middle. Falling while making the 2nd clip too high is close to groundfall (always clip from the jug!) - maybe stick clip it. Sometimes wet in key pockets at bottom. New bolt added in middle to protect groundfall from ledge 2/3up summer 2015.

More bolts have been added and the route is no longer runout.

The first bolted route on your right (climber's left) at the bottom of 'Alfred's Gully'. Very polished, making the whole route feel much harder (and scarier) than 5.9. Had an extra bolt added to the bottom circa 2011 to prevent a runout to the second bolt with groundfall potential.

Formerly the "easiest" sport climb at Nemo and many peoples first lead. Often moist in humid weather.

Located 100m south of the Lookout Tower, this is the most popular approach gully for 'Mount Nemo' 's southern area climbs.

contrived route on edge of the arrete. If you can find/invent the 11b you are a creative person. Goes at 5.9 bit runout if you take the easiest line.

harder (11- or 11 -- more so for short people) if you don't use what remains of the tree after the 2013 xmas ice storm.

To climber's right of Alfred Gulley. Passes to the right of a tree and ends in the notch shared by the 'traditional' gully downclimb. Convenient for a walk off or a last climb of the day.

Thin face climbing leading to a nice rest, then pull the roof.

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