Morphine Ledge, Trad climbing

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YDS

5.5 5.7 5.8 5.9 5.10a 5.10c 5.11a 5.11c

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Description

Area between 'Camel Wall' and 'Cat's Tail Wall', routes start on a ledge about 10m off the ground.

Access issues inherited from Mount Nemo

There is a top-roping ban in effect meaning that top-ropes may only be setup by a climber who has led the climb from the ground up. DO NOT SLING CEDARS and pad all other trees when building anchors.

Approach

10-20 min

'The Penguin Hatch' or the 'Easy Way Down' as for 'Big Gulp Area' and 'Camel Wall' are probably the best approaches.

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Routes

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Starts at number 38.

Climb to the ledge under the obvious roof-crack. Exit through the off-width section to a set of fixed anchors. Stop there, or continue straight to the top (through the crack in the next roof (5.10a).

Climb to the ledge under the notch right of Sister Morphine. Make your way up the notch, and angle up and right to the top.

Alternate finish to Reunion: exit the roof capping the notch to the left, and finish through the crack in the roof (as for Sister Morphine) at a set of fixed anchors below the lip.

Climb to the Morphine ledge, right of the Reunion notch. use the crack (right of the painted number 39). Climb the first crack to a ledge. Exit roof using the obvious hand-crack, terminating at fixed anchors just below a few trees. (A few large pieces fell off from inside the top crack in June, 2013. The climb still goes, but maybe the grade has changed).

An exposed and committing classic. Scramble up to a corner on the right hand side of the Morphine ledge. Climb the corner, step out right and climb the technical face (bolts).

Starts at number 40.

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