Cat's Tail Wall

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 98




Large open area which stays relatively shaded most of the day in summer, and contains many quality lines (as well as a couple of lesser quality).

Access issues inherited from Mount Nemo

There is a top-roping ban in effect meaning that top-ropes may only be setup by a climber who has led the climb from the ground up. DO NOT SLING CEDARS and pad all other trees when building anchors.


Via the 'Batcave Descent' gully, 'The Penguin Hatch' or the 'Easy Way Down'. The Batcave gully is very slick after rain and is best avoided when in such conditions.



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Grade Route

Start left of the leaning pillar, by the painted number 33C. Aim for the obvious off-width (OW) crack between the fist-crack (Big F) and the left OW ('Leader's Prayer'). The first section is crumbly, but there are good placements once you hit the OW. Take a well deserved rest, and tackle the second OW section, then cruise to the top (no fixed anchors). Take some big gear (#5 possible but not strictly necessary), but there are opportunities for small and mid-sized placements as well.

This route is located left of 'Route 69', which is left of the main Cat's Tail wall. Begin by a short, stubby pillar leaning against the wall. Climb the finger crack to the overhang, exit right through the fins. At the stance, either continue directly up the blank face (cool moves but no protection) or veer right, then back left, to reach the next crack system and gain the top (bolted anchors).

Start as Route 69, but keep right.

FA: Karl Seidenschmid, 2004

Start climbers left of a small detached pillar, climb up behind and follow the bolts along a wandering line of varied climbing. A great line for the grade.

Solo up the pillar and lean over the gap to clip the first bolt. Climb through some fun crimps to the mini-roof, then left around the arete.

Follow the fun finger-crack at the left side of the main Cat's Tail wall. The crack widens to hands, after which, head left over flaky insecure blocks (through pitons) to anchors. Beware the loose block puzzle at the top.

A short second pitch for Cat's tail. Traverse out right, then up, through many an old piton. No anchors, and few possibilities for a natural one on top.

One of Nemo's best climbs at the grade. This is the bolted line a couple of meters right of Cat's Tail. Climb the face right of the arête, and the face above, until you can get a closer look at the large roof. Take a deep breath. Exit the roof using the obvious crack. Fight the pump to the top.

Amazing, imposing line. Start just left of the Swan Song bolts, under the small roof-crack. Crank through two roofs to reach a bolted belay. The 2nd pitch is 5.8. After a slight left, head up until you get to the roof, traverse right and around the block (exposed and fun!) and go for the top. It is possible to use either the Graduate or Swan Song anchors. Connecting the two pitches is highly recommended and rope drag should not be an issue.

One of the best climbs of its grade at Nemo. Start on blocks on the right hand side of the main Cat's Tail wall, just left of a bush on the small ledge. Stick-clipping the first bolt is recommended.

Alternate finish to Northern air. At the roof, traverse left using the horizontal crack and finish on the vegetated ledge above where the crack ends. It is possible to continue up and right to the Northern Air anchors.

This climb is located about 10 meters right of the main Cat's Tail wall. Start beneath a corner system (a left-facing one below a right-facing one). Head up through the corners to a stance beneath a break in the small roof (by a large left-facing flake). Plug in some bomber gear and head for the anchors. Note: Gear is sparse and tricky for the first 8 meters or so.


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