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Central Zone

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 7
  • Ascents: 337
  • Aka: Heavy Metal Wall

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Access issues inherited from Mount Nemo

There is a top-roping ban in effect meaning that top-ropes may only be setup by a climber who has led the climb from the ground up. DO NOT SLING CEDARS and pad all other trees when building anchors.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Start left of number 16A.

Starts at 16B. Fun dihedral climbing up to a ledge.

FA: A. Large

Start at number 17A. Climbs to share same tree anchor as 17B. Bring long slings to sling trees at cliff top to build anchors. Then either top out and walk off or pull rope through (on clean) and rappel.

Start at number 17B. No bolted anchors, bring long slings for the big tree to build anchors at top of cliff. Top out and walk off or pull rope through and rappel off the large tree on clean.

2 meters to climber's right of 17B. Start on ledge behind some plants. First bolt is on right facing rock, which can be clipped from ledge. Traverse and move up. Shares a short section with its neighbour climb story (crux here), but then ventures to the left again. Finish on the black rock just behind the cedar at the top.

High first bolt off of ledge on the left face of a corner. Climb sandy and damp (but positive holds) up corner to gain the face. Neat rest ledge, then tackle a short arete move, onto some crimps. Rest before the steep finish through the roof.

Start at number 18C.

Climb the off-width chimney.

A hand crack 1m right of "Corkscrew Chimney" or 1m right of # 18C.

Climb widening crack to ledge. Traverse right to hidden crack which leads to top avoiding the cedars.

Start at number 18D.

Starts from the "A" Dance Ledge (to the left of the gully) which has two bolts + rap rings to belay from. Climb the bolted line about 1 m to the left (leftmost of the three bolted routes). Two rings for lower-off.

Starts from the "A" Dance Ledge (to the left of the gully) which has two bolts + rap rings to belay from. The middle line of bolts. 5.11b if you avoid both "Samba" and "Cha-Cha" but pretty contrived this way. ~5.10c if you stray into the other routes to skip the crimpy bulge.

Starts from the "A" Dance Ledge (to the left of the gully) which has two bolts + rap rings to belay from. Follow the right line of bolts from the ledge.

Start at #19.

Climbing up to a low ledge, then up a blocky corner to a higher ledge. Move right along this ledge to the back corner with a hand-crack & chimney. Climb the crack, the chimney, or a combination of the two.

One piton popped (July 2015), so currently one piton (circa 2013) as final pro before top-out.

FA: H. Microys & P. Turner

Start like Twist, but keep to the left. Finishes on the Tango anchors.

FA: Karl Seidenschmid, 2015

7m left of Charleston. Keep to the right.

FA: Karl Seidenschmid, 2015

The bolted crack 2m left of Charleston. Climb the large flakes.

4M left of zoomba

Or starts right at the red #25 marker. (about mid-way between Spring Thaw (#19) and "Curved Chimney Descent" (#20A), or about 20m from either.)

Climb the bolted slab on generally good holds to a steeper finish.

Two rings for lower-off.

The line just a few meters right of Zoomba. Rings at the top

Starts a few meters right of Foxtrot (rightmost bolted line). Rings at the top.

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