Access issues inherited from Mount Nemo

There is a top-roping ban in effect meaning that top-ropes may only be setup by a climber who has led the climb from the ground up. DO NOT SLING CEDARS and pad all other trees when building anchors.



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Grade Route

Starts at number 23. Take the right facing corner to a ledge to its left, then climb left to the top.

Start at number 25. Climb a flake to a ledge below a large overhang, then move left and climb a corner to the top.

Start at 26a. Climb a crack just left of a cedar part way up the cliff, traverse left and wander up the easiest path.

Climb the crack just right of the cedar to a ledge under a roof, go left to avoid roof, then up.

Starts about 4m right of "Hand Over Fist".

Start just right of "Gabba" at a small, squat, pinnacle.

Start at #26B. Climb a left-facing corner to a crack, up this, then left to a ledge, then up a groove on the left to the top.

Bolted line directly to the left of #27 and "Done Before". Follow the line of the crack up to the overhang, the first bolt is directly above you, about 3 meters off the ground. Stay to the left for almost the entire climb, often using the arete. Most of the bolts will be a long reach. Mind your head among the cedars at the top when you're anchoring (two hangers with rappel rings).

Starts about 10m right of #27, between a loose column and the wall.

Start at #28A. Scramble up to a corner, or start and belay from the ledge. Climb a large flake, then move left to easier climbing. Follow a chimney (large pieces) to top. Lower-offs.

Start below a big ledge with a cave right of number 28A. Climb to the ledge, then traverse left until it narrows; then do a layback and crack to the top.

Start at #28B.

Start at #29. Climb corners then ledges leftwards to the top.

Start 2m left of #30.

  1. Climb up to a ledge left of a stump, then up to a roof and thin crack above to a good ledge. (5.11c)

  2. Climb up and right across the roof, mantel onto the headwall, then straight up to the top. (5.12d)

An alternate 2nd pitch to Queen of Pentacles.

  1. Climb a bit left, then hand traverse back right, then straight up the face past bolts.


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