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The Spot

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 46

Seasonality

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Summary

A good selection of moderate bolted routes and a few trad routes.

Approach

Heading out of Musquodoboit Harbor on Highway 357, turn right across the bridge at Bayers Mill Road and drive to the dead end where it meets the Rails To Trails path. Walk across the path and into the woods along a narrow logging road for ~10 minutes, crossing a new wooden bridge and passing a pond on your right until you see a narrow path on your right marked by a short rock cairn. Head down this path and break left on a narrower uphill trail opposite the hunting blind.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Dihedral to overhang. Located on section right of the approach trail.

FA: Todd Foster & Dave Wilsie

Slab and arete right of Cat and Mouse.

FA: Dave Wilsie & Elizabeth Gilbert, 2014

Crack around the corner from Who Needs Viagra.

FA: Dave Wilsie, 2014

Bolted Crack dihedral next to Totally Industrial.

FA: Sean Therien

FA: Todd Foster, 2010

Long sport climb up the slab (crux), left, right and up to the overhanging crack. skirt right and up the flake then either head up left or right of spruce tree to top anchors and a view.

FA: Todd Foster, 2010

Climb the wall to the right of Phat Tuesday. Climb up and fight to notch in roof.

FA: Sean Therien, 2010

Climb first five bolts of Mr. T's Wild Ride, then head up the crack on the steep wall.

FA: Jamie Simpson & Matt Walker, 2012

Climb the face and arete to the left of Mr. T. This climb goes on for ever, with lots of rope drag unless you skip bolts

FA: Sean Therien & Todd Foster, 2010

FFA: S. Therien & T. Foster

scooped slab with cracked wall to the left.

FA: Sean Therien & Todd Foster, 2010

Short slab climb.

FA: Gavin King & Amanda Thalmann, 2013

FFA: S Therien & T Foster

FFA: S Launcelot & M Loydd

FFA: T Foster

FFA: S Therien & D Willsie

FA: S Therien

Climb the face to the left of the arête. Large holds lead to crack. Top anchor with two rings. Nice easy beginner lead. Somewhere around six bolts.

FA: Todd Foster, 2010

FFA: M Levin & T Foster

FFA: M Levin & A Nette

Start around the corner to the left of Knowledge Enema. Stem across the wide crack and move over onto the steep wall at the horizontal. Crux move on hidden hold get you established on the wall. Big holds and a scramble take you to the anchor, This climb was put up as an approach route for Safety is my Middle Name.

FA: Alec Soucy & Todd Foster, 4 Jun 2018

From the anchors for No Call Waiting move up on big holds to a steeper section with strange holds. Continue up the bulge and finish on the slab

FA: Todd Foster & Dave Wilsie, 2014

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