Blood Bath

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 15



Access issues inherited from Flatrock

Parking on Wade's Lane is no longer permitted, upon request of the town of Flatrock, please used the designated parking areas. The suggested approach to Main Face has changed since the release of the 2008 climbing guide, please refer to the map for more details.



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Grade Route

Left to right

Description Follow the sharp crack straight up. Connect to a large hand ledge and two horizontal cracks. Continue up the vertical crack until the bolt anchor is just to your left. Very short but very easy to access with quick scramble to the anchor. A great climb for beginners who haven't climbed outside. This is one of the shortest and least intimidating crags I've been at.

Protection 2 bolts at the anchor. Trad rack or Top Rope only

Follow the easy crack in between the two cracks which have bolted anchors , "Sharp Teeth" and "Unnamed Dihedral". No bolted anchor at the top. Not a convenient toprope.

Description Climb up a a 10 foot face with a hand crack to your right. Reach a series of small ledges leaning rightward into a sloping dihedral. There are some alternate starts that finish at the same anchor that will be added later. To the left a series of jugs heading up and to the right, meeting the ledges. To the right, a series of smaller features goes up and to the left meeting a horizontal ledge and crack. Finish along the ledges, or stay right and lean off the arete on small careful footing.

Protection 2 bolts at the anchor. Trad or Top Rope only.

Description Climb the balancy, shallow crack next to the corner

Protection Top rope only. The anchors are a long way back from the edge so long cord or slings are needed

Description Overhanging face climbing past flaring horizontal cracks. Probably not a safe trad lead, better to rappel down it first unless you can confidently downclimb or solo 5.11.

Protection Toprope Anchor

Description More overhanging face climbing past flaring horizontal cracks. Not a safe trad lead, at least one person has decked and broken bones after a lead attempt. A good candidate for bolting.

Protection Top anchor

Description Climb the crack in the corner past a low crux to easier climbing near the top.

Protection Rack up to 3". Bolted anchors at the top but they are very far back so you need a lot of cord.

Description Start by reaching to the back of a body sized crack for a good hold and climb up into the double crack system. Hug the two cracks, lay back or use your crack climbing skills to get to the top.

Location Immediately to the right of the Blood Bath dihedral

Protection Rack up to 4". Bolted anchor on top are very far back so you need a lot of cord.

Description Climb side pulls and crimps up the face to some reachy moves from the mid point up to a good hold before the finish.

Location A few feet to the right of Shake 'n' Bake starting under a good flake for your right hand.

Protection Top rope only. Bolted anchors very close to the edge.

Description Climb the corner crack starting from the big, elevated ledge. A decent beginner lead.

Protection Standard Rack, top bolts for toproping.

1 5.11d
2 PG13

Description The double crack system just right of the large ledge. The start can consist of a left sidepull for the left hand leaning the body with the right hip to the wall, a right jug on the horizontal crack, and feet on some of the features underneath. The climb then proceeds to the anchor, following the right crack as the holds get slightly bigger at the end, with pebbly footholds on the way up.

Location Start to the right of the ledge of "Little Jack's Corner" and to the left of the start for "Grunt".

Protection There is currently a two-bolt anchor at the top for top-roping/anchor set up. This anchor can be set with two one-foot slings and four (locking) carabiners, or a similar configuration with other gear such as a cordelette and/or sling webbing.

To lead the route, standard trad rack, with an emphasis on small cams.

FA: Matt Scott

Pull through the roof from the ground on the left hand side and either go up a little before trending right or traversing immediately. Use the cracks and tension to work your way to the top. Super strenuous for the grade but no particularly hard moves.

Protection Rack to 3" with an optional bigger piece at the top. Glue-in 2 bolt anchor installed in fall 2020. Previously, a gear anchor was used.

FFA: Paul Chaisson, 2007

1 5.11d
2 PG13

Description This climb is mostly the same as the toprope route "Jump Start" 5.11a in the Newfoundland Climbing Guide. From the FA:

"From the topo, and from my recollection, The Art of Body Karate looks to be around where Jump Start is. Or slightly to the left? I think it’s the thin seam just to the left of Jump Start. I recall it involves some thin finger jamming and some very cool high-kick body karate moves (hence the name)"

-Greg Foote

Protection Glue-in bolted anchor installed Fall 2020.

Standard rack with an emphasis on small cams, if leading.

FA: Greg Foote

On the same bolted anchor as "The Art of Body Karate.

This climb starts with a 'jump start,' to the features and crack above.

Description Thrash up the flared chimney, which becomes easier as you approach the top. Crux to start the route. Caution that getting to this route on the ground from the left might be slippery.

Protection Bolted anchor set back over the edge, with another bolt for top-belaying. Likely a well protected lead with a standard rack.

Bolted anchor on the corner to the right of "Sue Be Doo". Glue-in anchor bolts installed Fall 2020. Caution that getting to this route from the ground from the left might be slippery.

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