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Access issues inherited from Niagara Glen

To boulder at the Niagara Glen, a permit is required. Permits can be purchased at the Niagara Glen Nature Center (3050 Niagara Parkway) or at the Butterfly Conservatory (2565 Niagara Parkway). They cost $40 and require a signed waiver. Bouldering pemits also include an annual parking pass. Note that some boulders are currently closed due to environmental impact concerns. For more information on permits, trails and which boulders are open/closed see https://www.niagaraparks.com/visit-niagara-parks/nature-activities/bouldering/

Routes

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Grade Route

Direct start to Mamma Mia. Stand start at undercling and pocket.

Sit start out right along the arete. At the big jug move left onto the face and up. Arete holds above the jug are out of bounds (eliminate)

Sit start out right along the arete. Move directly left along small pockets to join Mamma Mia at the face holds.

Sit start out right along the arete. Up the arete and up the right face slab.

Climb Higher Ground but instead of finishing on the large ledge to the right, move left to the top of the boulder.

Glen Classic. Standing start on ledges. Make your way up to and past the large side-pulls to ledges. Finish slightly right to the big finish ledge.

Right to left traverse. Start on the right arete and finish on the boulder to the left.

Start on jugs at left side of boulder and traverse across to finish at PP's problem

Stand start with right hand on Gaston ledge and good left hand undercling with the <1 finger width gap in it. Up to the jug on the lip.

Start on incut crimp and pocket and make a big move right to a sidepull crimp in to "PP's Problem"

Climb the vaguely defined left arete

Sit start in the middle of the face and traverse right through crimps end at ledge

Painted pocket up to the right along the right leaning stereo before pulling the bulge to top out

Face right of Nine year Old Sneakers. Multiple V0 variations

Left to right traverse across the entire wall.

Lower romper room on the eliminate boulder. Climb pockets up face to first ledge.

Up the crack

Sit start on the right as "Thoughts And Prayers" then traverse left to join "Insane". Harder (and more fun) if you stick to the low pockets along the lip.

sit down start, head to pinch and climb up.

Stand start near fallen tree, head up and right using slopers and edges

Sit start crunched up on decent holds. Haul yourself off the ground and do a big move to latch on to the high hold. Up on jugs to the top.

Next to clean shave, sit start on the right face near the red spray paint, climb the face to jug ledge above

Climb the chunky right arete of the boulder using plenty of slots and pinches to finish on the jug ledge.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jesse Wong, Jack Szumilas, Kacy Wilson

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780995171312

A definitive guidebook describing the bouldering at the Niagara Glen area in Ontario, covering over 600 routes.

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046610

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, the Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers the portion of the Escarpment north of Shelburne including the Beaver Valley area and the Bruce Peninsula. Includes an extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1000 rock-climbing routes.

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046603

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, The Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers areas close to Toronto, including the popular Milton crags. Includes extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1,000 rock climbing routes.

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