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Land of Oz

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Access issues inherited from Niagara Glen

To boulder at the Niagara Glen, a permit is required. Permits can be purchased at the Niagara Glen Nature Center (3050 Niagara Parkway) or at the Butterfly Conservatory (2565 Niagara Parkway). They cost $40 and require a signed waiver. Bouldering pemits also include an annual parking pass. Note that some boulders are currently closed due to environmental impact concerns. For more information on permits, trails and which boulders are open/closed see https://www.niagaraparks.com/visit-niagara-parks/nature-activities/bouldering/

Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Lactic Acid boulder
6
16
4m
Fly Wall III boulder
5
22
5m

Routes

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Grade Route

Start to the right of the boulder and traverse your way all the way left using slopers and crimps and out-of-sight feet. Make your way around to the left arete and continue it to the top for an easy finish to top out at the highest point of the boulder.

Technically an eliminate because your hands/chest can be freely above the lip but you keep your feet below the lip.

Sit start near the right of the boulder, traverse left to the flake and top out over the bulge.

Stand start and top out using pockets. V2 per guidebook but consensus V3.

Sit start on choss jugs to the left side of the "Immaculate" boulder. Keep climbing up choss to a vegetated top out.

SDS under the overhang and head up.

Sit start on the arete to the right of the fallen tree

Located on the same boulder as Left Arete - climb the right side of the rock moving up the corner.

sit start on the left hand side and climb the left arete

Traverse across the vboulder, sit start on left side. Guidebook rated V3

Climb the right arete

Sit start on sloping ledge and climb to overhand and top out

The problem is located in the northern area of Land of Oz (West) on the yellow trail. Follow the left arete of the boulder without using big holds.

Located on the River Path (blue trail) in a group of boulders about a hundred meters before the River Path and Woodland Path (yellow trail) meet.

Start as "Action Arete" and traverse right across the entire face

Sit start in pockets on the right side of locomotive boulder. Up greasy slopers to top out.

Start with two large huecos and climb the face of the boulder. Located on the River Path (blue trail) in a group of boulders about a hundred meters before the River Path and Woodland Path (yellow trail) meet.

Sit start and climb the blocky arete. Top out.

Climb the chossy jug arete a couple meters right of "Knee bar"

Sit start on a big pocket and move out to the arete.

Start on two pockets in middle of boulder, climb the arete or dihedral to top out.

Start on ledge to pinch pocket and then climb the slab.

Start on undercling block, move up through pockets to ledge up and left

Start on chossy underclings to the right of "Wicked Witch of the West". Climb up choss to the top choss. Chossy.

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