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Georger Area

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Access issues inherited from Niagara Glen

To boulder at the Niagara Glen, a permit is required. Permits can be purchased at the Niagara Glen Nature Center (3050 Niagara Parkway) or at the Butterfly Conservatory (2565 Niagara Parkway). They cost $40 and require a signed waiver. Bouldering pemits also include an annual parking pass. Note that some boulders are currently closed due to environmental impact concerns. For more information on permits, trails and which boulders are open/closed see https://www.niagaraparks.com/visit-niagara-parks/nature-activities/bouldering/

Approach

Area within old country on purple trail, cluster of boulders with good problems.

Routes

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Grade Route

Stand start in the middle of the boulder, top out.

Start on the rippled hold on the right arete. Climb the arete to top out at the peak of the boulder.

Sit start on the arete and follow the good pockets up big moves to the top. Drop down or scale the top to the left to dismount at the adjacent small boulder. Hard V1.

Traverse of The Flywall Boulder

Easy highball with good movement

Sit start on the left-most flakes for a rather pointless little traverse right to the true raison-d'être of this V-novelty problem: squeezing/flopping/struggling your way up the birthing canal.

Start as 'Delicatessen' and climb into and finish as 'Pica'.

Start at the good ledge to the right of the finish for "Pica". Up to other good ledge, far left sharp pocket and finish at the "Pica" jug.

Adds a few moves before Foot Fetish by starting with both hands matched on the hueco and sitting between the boulders.

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