Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Difficulty | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Tue 30th May 2023 - Old Mill Crag | ||||||||
5.10a |
★★ Tomcat Combat
![]() | ★★ Very Good | 5.10a | |||||
Wicked start. I tried going left once in the sloping ledge, which caused me to fall. The guidebook says you can go either left or right, I'd say going left is harder than 10a. After falling, I went to the right and the climbing was much easier! Top two VERY staggered rings, but has chains extending the anchor point. With a 240cm sling I was able to safely set up a TR anchor.
|
||||||||
5.10a |
★★ Unplanned Ejection
![]() | ★★ Very Good | 5.10a | |||||
Went up thinking this was the 5.9 as it turns out this one is not in the guidebook. Fell once as i missed an extremely obvious, extremely bomber hold.
|
||||||||
5.9 |
★★ Prop Wash
![]() | ★★ Very Good | 5.9 | |||||
Lil bit chossy, careful. Really fun route!
|
||||||||
Mon 29th May 2023 - Crystal Crescent | ||||||||
IMAX Area | ||||||||
V1 |
★★ LA Burn SDS
![]() | |||||||
V0 |
★★ LA Smoked
![]() | 3m | ||||||
V1 |
Barehug
![]() | 4m | ||||||
V0 |
No Pants Party
![]() | 4m | ||||||
V3 |
Supercalafragalisticextrafreakingcrimpy
![]() | |||||||
V0 |
Easier SDS
![]() | 2m | ||||||
V0 |
Traverse into Easy SDS
![]() | 2m | ||||||
V0 |
Easy
![]() | 2m | ||||||
Sat 27th May 2023 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | ||||||||
The Spot | ||||||||
5.11c |
Percussion
![]() | |||||||
5.11c |
★★★ Moment of Silence
![]() | |||||||
5.10 |
★★ Mr. T's Wild Ride
![]() | 50m, 10 | ||||||
Sat 27th May 2023 - Creag na coille | ||||||||
V0 |
Melange
![]() | Suggested grade V1 | ||||||
Tue 23rd May 2023 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | ||||||||
The Spot | ||||||||
5.8 G |
★★ Tradasaurus
![]() | 20m, 5 | ||||||
5.9 G |
★★ Whiskey and a Headlamp
![]() | 30m, 7 | ||||||
Sat 20th May 2023 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | ||||||||
Castle | ||||||||
5.9 |
★ Noble Cause
![]() | 8m, 4 | ||||||
5.8 |
★★ Fee Fi Fo Fum
![]() | 12m, 5 | ||||||
5.8 |
★★ The Assassination of Blunderbore
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
5.8 |
★★ Wizards of the Castle
![]() | 14m, 5 | ||||||
5.7 |
★★ Up the Beanstalk
![]() | 11m, 3 | ||||||
5.6 |
★ Crocodile Tiers
![]() | 14m, 5 | ||||||
5.8 |
Use Your Magic Beans
![]() | |||||||
Sat 20th May 2023 - Cape Clear | ||||||||
Headwall | ||||||||
5.7 |
★ Lost and Found
![]() | 22m | ||||||
Sat 20th May 2023 - Cape Clear | ||||||||
Bear Cave Gully | ||||||||
5.9 |
InSpired
![]() | 27m, 8 | ||||||
Sat 20th May 2023 - Cape Clear | ||||||||
Headwall | ||||||||
5.10b |
Coyote Ugly
![]() | 70m, 21 | ||||||
Fri 19th May 2023 - Land of Confusion | ||||||||
Corn and Bung Bung | ||||||||
V0 |
★ White Cracker
![]() | ★ Good | ||||||
Fri 19th May 2023 - Land of Confusion | ||||||||
Corn and Bung Corn | ||||||||
V0 |
★★ Jackpot
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||||
Tall, super fun. Down-climb is harder than the climb.
|
||||||||
V3 |
★★ The Whale's Back
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||||
A constant fight the entire way. Super fun! First V3.
|
||||||||
Mon 15th May 2023 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | ||||||||
Castle | ||||||||
5.10a |
★★★ You Don't Know Jack
![]() | 5.10a | ||||||
Realized at the top I should of led this. Great route, super secure.
There is a large loose hold. I marked it with a chalk X. I thought about removing it but there was a lot of people and a dog or two around. |
||||||||
5.10b |
★★ Taming the Shrew
![]() | 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
I really tried. That wicked jug on the rail to the right of where it gets hard is so sharp, felt like I had grabbed boiling water after.
Stoked to project this over the season as a benchmark. |
||||||||
5.9 |
★★ Quantum Shopvac
![]() | 8m, 5 | ★ Good | |||||
This is a 5.9, but don't be fooled it is not the same 5.9 as the route to the right of it, as I've now learned. Fun, but pumpy!
|
||||||||
5.9 |
★ Noble Cause
![]() | 8m, 4 | ||||||
Wicked fun! Great holds the entire way. Sebastian topped it by mantling and ignoring the chimney on the left. I was.... not so brave...
|
||||||||
5.10a |
★★ Stoke-i-fy
![]() | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Fell once on the roof but figured out the beta pretty quickly. Stoked to get back out and send this.
|
||||||||
Sun 14th May 2023 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | ||||||||
The Spot | ||||||||
5.11c |
★★★ Moment of Silence
![]() | |||||||
5.9 |
★★ Phat Tuesday
![]() | 50m, 12 | ||||||
Sun 14th May 2023 - Chebucto Head - Duncan's Cove | ||||||||
Scoop Area Scoop Boulder | ||||||||
V0 |
★★ Chasing Elmo
![]() | ★★ Very Good | Hard V0 | |||||
Sun 14th May 2023 - Chebucto Head - Duncan's Cove | ||||||||
Twin Sisters | ||||||||
VB |
★★ Warm-up
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||||
Fri 12th May 2023 - Point Pleasant Park | ||||||||
Birch Tree Boulder | ||||||||
V2 |
Birch Tree SDS Eliminate
![]() | 3m | ||||||
V1 |
Birch Tree SDS
![]() | 3m | ||||||
V0 |
Birch Tree Stand
![]() | 3m | ||||||
Fri 12th May 2023 - Point Pleasant Park | ||||||||
Main Boulder | ||||||||
V0 |
Climb the Arete SDS
![]() | |||||||
V0 |
High Traverse SDS
![]() | |||||||
V3 |
Monoculture SDS
![]() | |||||||
V0 |
★ Climb the Face
![]() | |||||||
V3 |
The Cure SDS
![]() | |||||||
Low Traverse
![]() | ||||||||
Fri 12th May 2023 - Virginia Slab | ||||||||
5.6 G |
★★ Channel your Woolf
![]() | 12m | ★★ Very Good | 5.6 | ||||
Lead this using the bolts for Mrs. Dalloway. Climbed the crack system and clipped to the left, fun! Marking as TR cause there's no Sport override.
|
||||||||
Thu 11th May 2023 - Chebucto Head - Duncan's Cove | ||||||||
Rope Routes | ||||||||
5.11b |
★ High Tide
![]() | 15m, 4 | ||||||
Wed 10th May 2023 - Chebucto Head - Duncan's Cove | ||||||||
Rope Routes | ||||||||
5.10c |
★ Swab the Deck
![]() | 12m, 3 | ||||||
5.11b |
★ High Tide
![]() | 15m, 4 | ||||||
Mon 8th May 2023 - Chebucto Head - Duncan's Cove | ||||||||
Tsunami Area | ||||||||
V4 |
★★ Tall Guy
![]() | |||||||
Mon 8th May 2023 - Chebucto Head - Duncan's Cove | ||||||||
Twin Sisters | ||||||||
V6 |
★★ Tough Sailors
![]() | |||||||
Sun 7th May 2023 - Trout Cove | ||||||||
5.10b |
★★ Equidist
![]() | 12m | ||||||
5.6 |
Geesus
![]() | 12m | ||||||
Sun 7th May 2023 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | ||||||||
Castle | ||||||||
5.7 |
★★ Up the Beanstalk
![]() | 11m, 3 | ★ Good | |||||
Really cool climb over ledges.
|
||||||||
Sat 6th May 2023 - Chebucto Head - Duncan's Cove | ||||||||
Tsunami Area | ||||||||
V4 |
★★ Tall Guy
![]() | V4 | ||||||
Sat 6th May 2023 - Chebucto Head - Duncan's Cove | ||||||||
Twin Sisters | ||||||||
V6 |
★★ Tough Sailors
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||||
Sat 6th May 2023 - Planet of the Apes | ||||||||
Black Slabbath Wall | ||||||||
V0 |
Plume Of Feathers
![]() | |||||||
Sat 6th May 2023 - Polly's Cove | ||||||||
Aftermath | ||||||||
V5 |
Juan
![]() | V5 | ||||||
Sun 30th Apr 2023 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | ||||||||
The Spot | ||||||||
5.10d |
★★ To Beep or Not to Beep
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||||
I went up expecting a 10b, as I was using the guide book. I'm not experienced enough to really comment on grades, but I can see why this is a d, not b as the guidebook says. That slab is HARD. Took my first good outdoor fall on the slab. Maybe I'll come back end-of-season to try it again as a sort of benchmark.
|
||||||||
5.9 |
★ No Call Waiting
![]() | 20m, 5 | Don't Bother | 5.9 | ||||
First moves are fun. Then its just a garden scramble.
|
||||||||
5.10a |
★★ Parade
![]() | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||||
Wacky route. Terrified of falling onto that knife-blade rock during the third bolt but its super secure. Fell during the slab section mid-way. Final move is hard in the sense that trusting your foot and committing takes some mental fortitude, which I'm still working on.
|
||||||||
5.9 |
★★ Phat Tuesday
![]() | 50m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | Hard 5.9 | ||||
Damn that slab at the start. Fell while trying to reach to the right under the large boulder up top. View is amazing. Sebastian belayed from above with me cleaning as second.
|
||||||||
Sat 29th Apr 2023 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | ||||||||
The Spot | ||||||||
5.9 |
★★ Phat Tuesday
![]() | 50m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sat 29th Apr 2023 - West Penant | ||||||||
Thoughtful Spot Giant Upper Boulder | ||||||||
V6 |
Randy Savage
![]() | V6 | ||||||
Fri 28th Apr 2023 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | ||||||||
The Spot | ||||||||
5.8 |
★★ The Old In-and-Out
![]() | 20m, 6 | Average | |||||
Pretty good climb. Was not ready for the hand jamming at the top but got through.
|
||||||||
5.6 |
★ Leave it to Beaver
![]() | 14m, 6 | Average | Suggested grade 5.7 | ||||
It’s an okay climb!
The last two bolts are loose, I tightened the second last with an ATC just enough that I felt less sketched out. Anchors are bomber. May return Sunday and tighten them properly. There is also a chunk of rock somewhere above the 4th bolt that felt loose. |
||||||||
Wed 26th Apr 2023 - Land of Confusion | ||||||||
Area 51 | ||||||||
V10 |
★★★ Kleos
![]() | ★★★ Mega Classic | Suggested grade V9 | |||||
Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | ||||||||
Main Face Central Section (Green Wall + Ramps) | ||||||||
5.10b |
The Cremaster
![]() | 20m, 7 | ||||||
#1 of 3. Stiff warmup, but an OK climb.
|
||||||||
5.10a |
Full Metal Jacket
![]() | 20m, 8 | ||||||
#3/3. Final climb of the day. Didn't love this one.
|
||||||||
5.10c |
Welcome To The Machine
![]() | 20m, 8 | ||||||
#2 of 3. Interesting moves.
|
||||||||
Mon 24th Apr 2023 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | ||||||||
Castle | ||||||||
5.10b |
★ Humpty Trumpty
![]() | ★ Good | ||||||
#6/6. Obviously tired, fell off a couple times. But got to the top, eventually. Felt strong, just ... inefficient.
|
||||||||
5.10b |
★★ Taming the Shrew
![]() | 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
#5. Better than last time but still spanked in the middle bits with the traverse & layback. Gotta work on better footwork for a more stable transition.
|
||||||||
5.10a |
★★★ You Don't Know Jack
![]() | ★★★ Classic | ||||||
#4. Always a good time, this one.
|
||||||||
5.10a |
★★ Stoke-i-fy
![]() | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
#2/6. One of my fave climbs at Castle. Gotta love a knee bar!
|
||||||||
5.10c |
★ Trebuchet
![]() | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||||
#3. Don't love this one, but I should eventually lead it.
|
||||||||
5.10a |
★★ Release the Hounds
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||||
#1/6. Not the most smooth, but also did it in one go instead of the usual flail getting over the lip. Will placed gear so I had that going for me
|
||||||||
Mon 24th Apr 2023 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | ||||||||
The Spot | ||||||||
5.7 |
Cocksure
![]() | 13m | Average | |||||
Pretty good climb. Small hold by the second bolt was seeping wet. Had to find an alternative beta which made it feel a bit harder than 5.7. Bit run out by G Spot standards at the top but footholds are so secure it barely matters.
|
||||||||
5.9 |
★★ Teenage Burnout
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||||
Moss on the starting crux foothold made it a bit harder, but fun climb on lead! The moves after the start are very easy. Lots and LOTS of ladybugs at the top on the big boulder to the left. Hands got a little bit slimy before I noticed...
|
||||||||
Mon 24th Apr 2023 - Virginia Slab | ||||||||
5.7 |
★ Grumble in the Jungle
![]() | 15m, 6 | 5.7 | |||||
5.10c |
★★ A Room of One's Own
![]() | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Hard 5.10c | ||||
5.10a |
★★ Mood Swings
![]() | 15m, 7 | Hard 5.10a | |||||
5.10b |
★★ Defanged
![]() | 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Hard 5.10b | ||||
Was a super fun climb, in the guidebook it is 5.10c, I think the 5.10b is more reasonable, atleast comparing to room of ones own 5.10c
|
||||||||
Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | ||||||||
The Spot | ||||||||
5.9 |
You're So Hollywood
![]() | Suggested grade 5.10a | ||||||
5.9 |
★★ Phat Tuesday
![]() | 50m, 12 | ||||||
Sat 22nd Apr 2023 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | ||||||||
The Spot | ||||||||
5.6 |
★★ Bye Bye Beep
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||||
5.8 |
Twinkle Toes
![]() | 3 | ||||||
Sat 22nd Apr 2023 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | ||||||||
First Face | ||||||||
5.11c |
★★★ Slave to Fashion
![]() | 20m, 6 | ||||||
Fri 21st Apr 2023 - Land of Confusion | ||||||||
Bug City | ||||||||
5.9 |
★★ War Pigs
![]() | 7m, 4 | ||||||
5.8 |
★ Crazy Train
![]() | 9m, 4 | ||||||
Wed 19th Apr 2023 - Crysalis | ||||||||
V7 |
Larva
![]() | V7 | ||||||
V3 |
Embryo
![]() | V3 | ||||||
Tue 18th Apr 2023 - West Penant | ||||||||
Heffalump | ||||||||
V5 |
★★ Heffalump
![]() | |||||||
Tue 18th Apr 2023 - Chebucto Head - Duncan's Cove | ||||||||
Twin Sisters | ||||||||
VB |
★★ Warm-up
![]() | |||||||
V2 |
★ Slot problem
![]() | |||||||
Tue 18th Apr 2023 - Land of Confusion | ||||||||
Nouveau Riche | ||||||||
V2 |
★ When Bitter and Ugly Meet
![]() | |||||||
V5 |
★★ True Blood
![]() | |||||||
V3 |
★★ La Vie En Rose
![]() |