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Summary

A nice place to escape the bugs and watch boats

Description

A narrow seaside gully with some easy trad and sport climbs with a few moderate sport routes.

Access issues inherited from Chebucto Head - Duncan's Cove

The gate is sometimes open, but there is no guarantee it will be when you try to leave, so park outside.

Make sure not to block or park on any private driveways, including the small gravel pullout with an easy-to-miss ‘no parking’ sign.

Approach

Walk up the road to the lighthouse, and start your descent at the far left of the railing (facing the ocean) past the WWII battery ruins. Descend down the path and onto the rocks, keeping one gully on your right. Move left and you will reach a place close by the water to descend into the gully on your left, then move back up to the climbs, which are on the side of the gully opposite from where you entered. If you want to set up a tope rope on the north side, walk past the gully at the top and then work your way down.

History

History timeline chart

Aidas Rygelis put up the first climb, and anchors for a top rope route. Todd Foster and Alec Soucy bolted the top rope route and two additional climbs with titanium glue-ins in 2018, with the idea that it would be a fun and close destination for after-work climbing. Subsequently there was a great deal of interest from the local community, so Todd Foster and Sarah Gutowsky returned and added a few more sport lines, and Ryan DesRoches and Will Bland sent two trad routes.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Starting right of “Guillemot Appreciation Day”, and left of the tidal pool, climb the corner crack. Shares anchors with “Guillemot”.

FA: Ryan DesRoches & Will Bland, 4 Jul 2018

Start in the small rounded boulders at the high-water level, grab holds on the horizontal crack and head up and over the overhanging bulge onto the ramp. Named for the cool birds that can often be seen feeding in the waters just outside the gorge.

FA: Sarah Gutowsky, Todd Foster & Toddles, 31 May 2018

Start with hard bouldery moves below the overhang on the right, with a high stick clip to protect. Work up a series of flakes to the anchor.

FA: Toddles, Todd Foster & Sarah Gutowsky, 31 May 2018

Step off the round boulder to reach the ledge. Continue up the face using sidepulls and gastons, topping out with a jug. The route was bolted by Todd Foster in 2018, but tope rope anchors were installed ten years earlier by Aidas Rygelis.

FA: Aidas Rygelis, 2008

Set: Aidas Rygelis, 2008

FFA: Toddles, Todd Foster & Sarah Gutowsky, 31 May 2018

Climb to the diagonal rising rail and work up using the flake to your right. Alternatively, you can place gear and stay on the flake for a 5.8 finish.

FA: Aidas Rygelis, 2008

Start on 'High Tide', then follow the flake right for a trad finish.

Start on the ledge left of the start of High Tide. Climb the black stained face to the small alcove arête and to the top.

FA: Toddles, Todd Foster & Sarah Gutowsky, 1 Jun 2018

Start off the high ledge left of Swab the Deck. Follow the thin seam up the face.

FA: Will Bland & Ryan DesRoches, 4 Jul 2018

Starting at the lowest point on the wall opposite from 'Full Steam Ahead', climb up to the ledge and grab the sinker flake. Continue up steep climbing on super-positive holds. "Jipugtug" is the Mi'kmaq name for the area (Chebucto being an Anglicization), and means "The Big Harbour."

FA: Alec Soucy, Toddles & Sarah Gutowsky, 31 May 2018

Climb the face left of the chunky wet ramp. Follow the bolts trending right to the small roof. Excellent easy climbing and a great lead for those learning the skill.

FA: Mia Foster, Sarah Gutowsky, Todd Foster & Toddles, Jun 2018

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