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The Alley

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Description

The best concentration of easier sport routes at the crag, this area is also shaded basically all day, making it very comfortable during the summer and colder in other seasons.

Access issues inherited from Old Baldy

A permit is no longer required to climb at Old Baldy. Parking cost is $10/day for all users through the MacKay Pay phone app, or a yearly pass can be purchased on the Grey Sauble Conservation Authority website for $40 for residents or $75 for non-residents. Up to date access information for Ontario climbing can be found here: https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/crag-status/ -updated October 12, 2021

Approach

From 'Fallout Wall', continue north until you pass the broken bench. Head up to the cliff and scramble up (class 4) into the crevas. For an easier approach, continue hiking around the west side of the central pinnacle and turn back to climb into the crevas from the north.

Ethic inherited from Beaver Valley

Leave no trace and tread lightly! Please refer to https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/climbers/getting-outside

Red tagged route: do not touch - route is a closed project and/or bolting is unfinished (i.e. dangerous).

History

History timeline chart

Some of the routes listed as sport were trad routes, but were retro-bolted with the permission of the First Accensionists.

Routes

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Grade Route

These routes are located on the main wall of the cliff. Routes are listed from south to north.

Starts outside the south end of the alleyway, on the mainwall under some overhanging rock. Crux is on the bottom, stick clip the first bolt, and be ready to swing if you fall.

Located behind the pinnacle inside the "Alley". Starts on the 2m "step". Follow the right set of bolts.

FFA: Randy Kielbasiewicz/ Melissa Armstrong, Jun 2013

Set: Randy Kielbasiewicz/ Melissa Armstrong, Jun 2013

Located behind the pinnacle inside the "Alley" Starts on the 2m "step" (stack of boulders). This route takes the left line of bolts.

Located behind the pinnacle inside the "Alley". Start 2m left of Sneakers and Roids. Stay to the right at the top to gain the anchor jugs, harder to climb the face.

The following routes are located on the pinnacle, opposite the main cliff wall. Routes are listed from south to north.

FA: Martin Seidenschmid

Acurately named route due to the sharp pockets on the route. Located directly opposite of 'Gridlock'. Beware of a potential ground fall potential before clipping the second bolt.

Located to the right of 'Pins and Needles', start by the large rock near the north end of the alley. Some big moves for a 5.6, but easy climbing.

Set: Wade Meade, May 2013

FA: Wade Meade, May 2013

A retro-bolted trad line (originally a 5.6), this is the last bolted line to the north on the inside of the pinnacle.

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