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Loonshit Bluffs

15
BLDV

Seasonality

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Description

Decent set of short easier routes with some high enough to merit 2 pads. With some scrubbing many more climbs are waiting to be developed

Access issues inherited from North Bay Area

Some highway climbing. Be aware of highway vehicles and take care with where you park.

Approach

Short approach from highway. Careful not to roll your ankle on loose boulders on the way in.

History

History timeline chart

Scrubbed summer of 2018

Routes

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Grade Route

Easy warm up with many options

FA: 10 Aug 2018

Start the same as Bear Ass, use the good foot on the chunk of rock to the left to dino up to the top of the face on your left.

FA: Carter Hodgson, 21 Oct 2019

Up the dirty crack. Needs a good clean and maybe then it could be fun

Fun face moves up a real solid rock

Start as close to the water as you can and work through the cracks to the top

Fun if you try and stay in the crack only

FA: 10 Aug 2018

Fun small moves with high up crux

FA: 10 Aug 2018

Needs a quick scrub would be a good climb to add

Long traverse starting from right to left. Sustained tricky moves. Good for practising footwork. Take care not to affect small cedar tree growing out of rock.

FA: 12 Aug 2018

Start on the flat part of the crack to the right of Organic Mechanic and work your way along to the big ledge to the left. finish up with Gritty decent in the crack.

FA: Carter Hodgson, 21 Oct 2019

Dont fall you end up in the pond

This climb starts on the highway side or "Loonshit Blast" Follow the series of cracks while watching for loose rocks and finish in the crack. Fun crack climbing

Start directly to the right of/behind the big cedar tree. Take a big step up and use the ledges to top out among the branches.

FA: Carter Hodgson, 20 Oct 2019

Start on the big angled ledge to the right of "Its the Grime" make a big step out left to a very small foot chip and finish via "Its the Grime" This route can be very wet and will need repeated cleaning.

FA: Carter Hodgson, 20 Oct 2019

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046610

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, the Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers the portion of the Escarpment north of Shelburne including the Beaver Valley area and the Bruce Peninsula. Includes an extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1000 rock-climbing routes.

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046603

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, The Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers areas close to Toronto, including the popular Milton crags. Includes extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1,000 rock climbing routes.

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Tue 18 Apr
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