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Description

The first area you will reach where the access trail meets the wall.

Routes have been re-organized LEFT to RIGHT.

Access issues inherited from Red Rock: Pet Wall

Most of the cliff and approach is on crown land. Some of the climbing is on private land -- the owner (John Jeffrey) has, historically, been friendly. "He likes to talk." Please be courteous and friendly if you meet him -- likely running around on a 4-wheeler.

There are, also, usually active nesting Peregrine falcons on the left side of the main cliff (left of the waterfall) -- avoid this area during the spring and summer months.

Approach

See Main Wall

Ethic inherited from Red Rock: Pet Wall

Top Roping: Most/all routes have top-anchors. Please do not pass rope directly through the fixed gear for top-roping, use your own gear & only use the top-anchors for final lower or rappel.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

These are the first climbs you will come to where the trail meets the main wall, forming the left-end of the Laboratory. The left-most two can be used to access The Asylum.

Thin slab climbing left of "Set it on Fire"

FA: Anouk Desjardins & Alex Bain

Work your way up the face at a crack.

FA: Mathieu Paul & Alex Bain

Climb Set It On Fire, clip a long draw on the anchor and continue up steep bouldery crack to the roof. Pull roof and follow amazing hand crack to the very top of the cliff. Full value. SR rack to #3, 2nd #3 helpful for crux, #4 optional. Anchor added, route cleaned and led in May 2020.

Set: J Dean Urness & Matt Bell

FA: Alex Bain & Mathieu Paul

The Longest route on the cliff. Climb a thin seam to a bolt and then continue weaving your way up the arête. Continue to a ledge then a hard cruxy section of the route that begins with a series of 3 bolts trending left. Clip these and at the third bolt make a hard move straight up. Make another two or three difficult moves and then finish on easier holds above.

FA: J. Dean Urness, Edwin Guigere & others

Route starts just right of "The Feather". Climb flakes to a small roof, exit left at 3rd bolt and then straight up a small dihedral. At the 2nd roof step right , traverse under and out right side of next roof then up the arete to anchor. Be aware that rock quality on route is not as good as others nearby. Several slings useful to avoid drag. Massive cleaning effort from Christian Lafleur.

FA: Dan Snelson, May 2021

Climb through the obvious weakness at the right end of the 1st large roof. Pull through the crux roof on jugs. Easier climbing above with a couple devious slab moves guarding the chains.

FA: Christian Lafleur, May 2021

Set: Dan Snelson, May 2021

2 pitch line that weaves between the massive roofs, taking the line of least resistance. Originally led on-sight on gear, you can now take advantage of a few bolts from other routes on P1. Start as per "Fisticuffs", but continue up and left from the hand crack and belay on the anchors of "Death from above". P2 involves adventurous slab climbing rightwards towards a big pine tree and exit above and right. Belay from trees at top of cliff. P2 largely uncleaned and still has some loose rock, please use caution.

FA: Dan Snelson & Christian Lafleur, May 2021

Look for the striking roof crack in the 2nd tier roof as you approach the cliff. Start at 1st bolt of "A Just War" and traverse left along a crack/ledge system almost to the arete, use long runners for drag. Climb a right leaning hand-crack (maybe 5.8) to the base of the roof. Plug a #4 above your head, breath, then jam your way out the roof on fists and hands before pulling the roof.

FA: Dan Snelson, May 2021

Start left of Calm Like A Bomb. Climb the ramp, clip the directional and the first bolt on the roof, make a big reach to the V notch. Move up and right past the roof. Catch a rest, then climb the arete to another wild rest. Technical and sustained climbing near the top.

FA: Edwin Giguere & Alex Bain

Left of the big roof, middle route that starts on the blackened slab underneath a smaller/lower roof. Start on the ramp, clip a bolt off the ramp. Powerful moves on big holds down low to more technical climbing on smaller holds up high.

FA: Alex Bain & J. Dean Urness

Climb up the black slab to the roof, clip a bolt. Pull hard through the roof and to a nice rest. Continue on trending right and up till you meet the large roof. Follow along under the roof, trending left until you can bypass it. Shares an anchor with Calm Like a Bomb.

FA:

The next four routes share a common start up a blocky buttress:

Stick clip a bolt on the left side of a blocky buttress, then up past a 2nd bolt to a large ledge about 20 feet off the ground.

Follow Cardiac Arete up through the Open Corner (2nd bolt), but instead of moving right, continue directly up the corner, sling a tree, and keep going, exiting through the same crack as Cardiac Arete.

FA: J. Dean Urness

Climb the common start, then clip a bolt on the face to the left, pull onto it over a roof, then up into an open corner to a bolt (clip long to reduce drag), right to a bolt on the face, then up the arete (either side, as needed) to finish through a crack above.

FA: J. Dean Urness & Matt Bell

A different finish to "Cardia Arete" - climb it until, near the top, it is possible to move right on towards another bolt. Clip and continue rightwards to a fixed station.

FA: J. Dean Urness

After the shared start, climb up and right into the large obvious corner.

Cleaned by Matt -- a major effort.

FA: J.Dean Urness & Matt Bell.

The last route seen as you approach the cliff from below -- look for bolts heading up from near the top of the approach trail.

FA: Alex Bain & J. Dean Urness

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