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Alice Roadside

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 12
  • Ascents: 246
  • Aka: Alice Cliff

Seasonality

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Summary

Small cliff near Alice Ontario.

Description

There are a few really nice routes here and at least one developed boulder.

The cliff is north-facing and well-shaded. It would be a good warm-day cliff, but dries slowly.

Access issues

The entire cliff and approach is on general use crown land. No access issues.

Approach

Head south from Pembroke on hwy 58. Once you pass the Alice ski slope and the town sign keep going. Park in a small parking lot on the right prior to a large left bend where the there is a warning limit of 70km/h. Or park in a small parking lot on the left after the bend. Walk along the outside of the bend to some flagging tape (if its there) and a rock cairn. The short path is fairly distinct. Rap here or follow cliff to your left (climber's right) and down.

Ethic

From what I gather, retro-bolting allowed.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start at the bottom of the easy way down below a small flake. Climb up to easier ground finishing with a scramble to the top.

Climb the first bolted line just left of the easy way down.

Start at the base of the arête left of White Rabbit. Climb the arête to the 2nd bolt then move right onto the face and up past 2 more bolts to an anchor.

5m left of the easy way down. Start under an overhang that forms an apex mid way up. Climb up and through the overhang via the top right side of the apex. Rap anchor at the top.

Same start as for Someone's Overhang. Climb straight up through the overhang to anchors.

10m left of Someone's Overhang. Up the finger crack on the right side of the face, moving right just below the top boulder and up a small ramp. No anchor.

Descend down easy terrain on the right side.

10m left of Someone's Overhang. Climb the easy bolted face to a large ledge (5.3, 10m). There are 2 bolted lines from there. Climb the right one to a rap anchor.

10m left of Someone's Overhang. Climb the easy bolted face to a large ledge (5.3, 10m). There are 2 bolted lines from there. Climb the left one to a rap anchor.

Start around the corner, 5m left of Piton-be-gone. Climb the technical steep slab. Sustained.

Climb the inside corner left of Crimper's Cramp. Gear to 2 inches. Often wet. Rap anchor at the top.

2m left of True Drew. Follow the bolts up the center of the main wall, through some small overhangs, without going too far left. Climb through the small bulge (crux) to the anchor, or after clipping top bolt, move left into Fire Starter for a 5.8 finish, avoiding the crux. Rap anchor at the top.

Start on Mad Hatter, at the 3rd bolt traverse right on good feet then head straight up to a big undercling. Make an awkward move up and left and start working the big flake, solve the boulder problem on small crimps and a big reach up and right to gain the anchor.

FFA: Jimmy Stewart, 15 Jun 2017

Start under the large roof, 5m left of Mad Hatter. Climb the finger crack up, traverse right and climb past roof on the right side. Climb towards left inside corner past 2 bolts, then up the large right slanting crack. Either top out or rap from anchor for Mad Hatter. Alternate start same as Mad Hatter.

Start 5m left of Mad Hatter. Climb up slab, past a bolt, through the roof, past a second bolt, and link back up with Fire Starter for the finish.

Start left of Firestarter at the left end of the large roof. Climb up and left under the roof, around the arête, and onto the face. Climb up the face past 2 bolts to a ledge, following the arête up past some loose rock and a bolt through the short overhang to the top.

Around the corner, 5m left of Fire Starter, climb the face.

5m left of the start for Mixed Feelings. Climb the right leaning dihedral to a rappel anchor.

Located in the center of a hidden, but larger, section of the cliff. Walk 50m left of the main wall along the bottom of the cliff. Climb up through and around a number of overhangs to chains. A steel locker is on the chains for ease.

Route under development. Climbers left of Airy and Scary following the obvious dark water scar.

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