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YDS
5.7

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Description

A 6m cliff with some small overhangs above deep water. The cliff is covered with a lot of lichen and many loose holds. There is definitely potential for some harder routes here, however you may want to scrub the face with a top rope prior.

Use at your own risk as the right side corner features some shallow water. The centre is at least 3m deep directly under the wall, and 10m deep 2m from the cliff according to a depth finder.

Access issues inherited from Ontario

In the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. The Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) monitors this, and negotiates for access to cliffs, or to avoid closures. They maintain a crag status list at: https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/crag-status/

The Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry also maintains an online crown land use policy atlas. This can often be used to determine the ownership status of the land on which a cliff is located in Ontario. It can be found at: http://www.giscoeapp.lrc.gov.on.ca/web/MNR/NHLUPS/CLUPA/Viewer/Viewer.html .

Approach

Boat access only. There is a public access boat launch at the end of Rantz road. Move west down the Barron River until the channel starts to narrow. The cliff is on the Northern side near the end of the channel. If the channel opens up to a shallow weedy area with a blue/white building, you’ve gone too far.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start on the right hand side on the platform just above the water. Traverse left below the tree and follow the horizontal crack before the vertical crack to the top out.

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