Nodes in Petawawa Bouldering

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Petawawa Bouldering

There's a number of great bouldering spots of excellent rock within the Petawawa area.

Murphy's Law

Located on the side of a quiet road, a feature of excellent vertical to overhanging rock with lots of potential for more problems, including the rock feature on the other side of the road. Full afternoon sun.

Murphy's Law
V0+ You Always Find it in The Last Place You Look

Sit start with hands on lowest holds just to the right of graffiti. Go up on holds above graffiti and top out left of little bush.

V3 Righty Tighty

Start far left side, traverse the face right staying off the large ledge, to the far right side where you can step off the feature

V1 Friendly fire (isn't)

Match start of left slanting edge, jug up on large holds

V2 Suppressive fire (won't)

Same start as 1, without using large horizontal edge

V3 If it's stupid but works, it's not stupid

Match on right slanting edge, climb straight up

V1 All-weather gear (doesn't work in all weather)

Start on far left of large ledge, on good holds go straight up

V2 Perfect plans (never go perfectly)

Start on ledge, up the thin crack mid way up, tricky top out

V1 The easy way (is always mined)

Start on large ledge, up through large slanting cracks, exiting through a shallow inside corner - tricky top out

V0 Interchangeable parts (aren't)

Start at highest point of ledge, traverse up left slanting crack, top out same as 6

V0 The cleaner the clothes (the worst the weather)

Same start as 7, go straight up

V2 No Rain Jacket (torrential downpour)

Start on ledge between "Cleaner the Clothes" and "2 beers". Work delicate crimps on the face, top out! (Avoid holds from the routes left and right of it for true grade)

V1 2 beers (x 4 dudes = 6 cases)

Right edge of ledge, up the thin crack through the V-shaped depression

V1 The right way (for lefties)

Up the face using some of the right slanting flake - reachy

V0 Easy 5.5 (= epic 5.10 on POF)

Climb up right slanting flake on large holds

V0 If anything can go wrong, it will

Straight up small inside corner on large holds exiting through U-shaped cut out

V3 No cheating in climbing, just lying

Climb the face just using the small horizontal edge, up through large horizontal crack

V2 Military Intelligence (is a contradiction)

Same as 13, using the vertical holds to the right

V2 Lefty Loosy

Starting on far right side, traverse left along the lip until you can easily top out on the far left side.

V0 Stepping Stool

Far right ledge - Start on left edge of the ledge, climb straight up using large crimps

Lover's Den

An area consisting of a few short problems on good rock located in downtown Petawawa. Area has several routes suitable for new boulderers where crimping and smearing can be practiced with little risk of injury.

Lover's Den
V1 Blank space

Sit start in the small cave, up the face left of the crack

V0 Cushion Pushin'

Sit start in the small cave, match large jug, follow the crack straight up.

V1 The van's a rockin'

Sit start in the small cave, match the large jug, up the face to the right of the crack without the use of the bottom block

V0 Better than Walking

After climbing up from the 'den', walk towards the river with the slope on your right. Where the rock cuts in (look for the white hands), climb down half-way and traverse back to the den. Small crimps and tiny edges are good practice for new boulderers with little fear of injury from a fall (70-80 deg. slope and not a lot of height). End at the corner of the den or continue past 'blank space', exiting top or bottom.

V0 Slippery when Wet

Run up the slope, propelling yourself off the protrusion on the right, catching the crimp on the left. Smear and use the crimps to pull you over the rim at the top.

V0 2 Hands

Climb the cracks in the slanted slab. Don't use the wall to make it more difficult.

V0 Wetter is Better

Climb the damp vertical wall.

V0 Follow the crack

Climb the face using the corner and edges.

V0 Grab-a-slab

Around the corner, right of the start for Cushion Pushin'. Climb the slabby face. Easy but fun

V2 Heel hook-up

Sit start right side of overhang. Using the lip, traverse up and left, exiting through a small cut out at the top.

V3 Panties in a knot

Sit start directly under the exit for Heel hook-up. Left and up the face without using the lip. Exit left of small protruding rock at the top.

V0 No shoes, no shirt, no problem

At the top on the left. Sit start left of the overhang. On small holds, climb up and over the rounded bulge.

V0 Fell in Water

Down by the rapids. Run at the wall, jump up, grab the crack and smear to the top.

Alice Boulder

Alice boulder is a granite boulder of excellent rock about a 15 min drive from Petawawa. Bring bug spray!

Alice Boulder
V1 Alice in Wonderland

Far left side of the south side face. Solid holds and a final layback with little feet just right of the arête, then top out

V3 You're Late...for a very important date!

Climb the blank to the right of Alice in Wonderland, using what you can between problems 1 and 3. Stick to the middle

V1 The Rabbit

Climb the juggy side pulls/underclings with marginal feet to the top

V2 Smoke with the cat

To the right of The Rabbit, climb the reddish corner to start then move your way up marginal holds to a slabby finish

V1 The House of Cards Arete

Sit start, climb the far right arête, slapping your way up. Fun holds all over

V7 All the way down the rabbit hole

On the north side, climb just left of the right arête to a really bad set of side pulls and underclings. Proceed onto the face, gunning for the ledge underneath the top block. Finish up the block and top out.

V9/10 Project

Left of Rabbit Hole. Super good hard route potential up the face. Climb to the undercling and then work the face

V0 Easy way up.. or down

On climbers left of “Alice in wonderland’s” arète, follow the slabby wall using the big jugs and a nice flake to top out or descend with ease.

Portage Rd.

A roadcut located along a quiet road. Rock quality is good to excellent

Portage Rd.
V4 Crazy or lazy

On the right side of the south side road cut there is a large block roof. Climb up the face on the right side of the arete. Difficult top out.

Project II

Same start as Project I. Climb the face left of the arête. Yikes!

V1 For the Pharaohs

5 m left of Project II. Climb the pyramid shaped face with an overhanging block on top. Descend down to your right.

V3 Pumped up Jam

From the start of For the Pharaohs, scramble up left to a grassy ledge. Sit start, matching the flake located above the spray painted "Em + Rick". Climb the arête. Traverse left for the descent.

V3 Finger'cling

Same start as Pumped up Jam. Climb the finger crack up the right face.

V0 Not a problem

5m left of Pharaohs. Climb the face with a slabby top out. Don't use the small broken bulge on the left for a V1.

V1 Eddy line

5 m left of Not a Problem. Climb the tall, fractured face. Descend down the left side.

V2 Slope-a-dope

Sit start, slapping your way up the overhanging bulge. Traverse left for the descent.

V2 Kicking and Screaming

Left side of the northern road cut. Start in the middle of the overhanging face, just below a small, shallow inside corner above the ledge. Surmount the ledge. Either continue up or take a victory leap. Start either left or right for V1

Project III

Sit start as per Kicking and Screaming. On tiny crimps climb the seam up and right to top out on the right side of the overhang.

V1 Flip kick

Crimp and high step your way up the left edge of the ledge.

V1 Riding the green tongue

5 m left of Kicking and Screaming. Climb the face without using the arête on the right or fractured rock on the left. Use them for a V0

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