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Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

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1. Ontario 4,550 routes in Region

Summary:
J
F
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A
M
J
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O
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D

Seasonality

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.317547, -84.736521

summary

Mostly small to medium sized local crags.

description

Canada's 2nd largest province by area, and largest by population, with most of the population along the north and west shore of Lake Ontario -- metro Toronto and outwards.

Ontario is of generally low relief -- the highest point is about 690m (2260ft) above sea level. This tends to make for a lack of large cliffs and long routes, so Ontario has a reasonable amount of decent cragging, but nothing that is destination climbing.

The northern parts of Ontario tend to be nearly uninhabited wilderness and crown (publicly owned) land. Southern and south-western Ontario, especially the areas around Toronto, are more densely populated and access issues are often complicated.

access issues

In the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. The Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) monitors this, and negotiates for access to cliffs, or to avoid closures. They maintain a crag status list at: https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/crag-status/

The Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry also maintains an online crown land use policy atlas. This can often be used to determine the ownership status of the land on which a cliff is located in Ontario. It can be found at: http://www.giscoeapp.lrc.gov.on.ca/web/MNR/NHLUPS/CLUPA/Viewer/Viewer.html .

1.1. Eastern Ontario 1,078 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 44.923312, -76.212637

description

The eastern part of Ontario. Mostly gently rolling hills and river valleys/plains. The main city and population center of the area is Ottawa, the capital of Canada.

1.1.1. Alice Roadside 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 45.727581, -77.394505

summary

Small cliff near Alice Ontario.

description

There are a few really nice routes here and at least one developed boulder.

The cliff is north-facing and well-shaded. It would be a good warm-day cliff, but dries slowly.

access issues

The entire cliff and approach is on general use crown land. No access issues.

approach

Head south from Pembroke on hwy 58. Once you pass the Alice ski slope and the town sign keep going. Park in a small parking lot on the right prior to a large left bend where the there is a warning limit of 70km/h. Or park in a small parking lot on the left after the bend. Walk along the outside of the bend to some flagging tape (if its there) and a rock cairn. The short path is fairly distinct. Rap here or follow cliff to your left (climber's right) and down.

ethic

From what I gather, retro-bolting allowed.

1.1.2. Black Bay 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 45.868138, -77.472622

description

A 6m cliff with some small overhangs above deep water. The cliff is covered with a lot of lichen and many loose holds. There is definitely potential for some harder routes here, however you may want to scrub the face with a top rope prior.

Use at your own risk as the right side corner features some shallow water. The centre is at least 3m deep directly under the wall, and 10m deep 2m from the cliff according to a depth finder.

approach

Boat access only. There is a public access boat launch at the end of Rantz road. Move west down the Barron River until the channel starts to narrow. The cliff is on the Northern side near the end of the channel. If the channel opens up to a shallow weedy area with a blue/white building, you’ve gone too far.

1.1.3. Battery Lake 22 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 45.230895, -76.765259

summary

Small boulder field with half dozen erratics and many more small rock out crops located right on the side of a spring fed lake stocked with Splake

description

Granite erratics with lots of quartz and feldspar crystals making some holds quite sharp. More moderates/easy lines but there will be a few harder lines. Some routes have had a basic cleaning, please bring a brush and help open this area up

access issues

Located on crown land

approach

From Calabogie travel south on Lanark Rd. Turn right onto Barryvale rd. Stay on Barryvale rd then turn left into Tatty Hill Rd, follow Tatty Hill rd to large atv/truck parking area. The road here turns into Barry lake trail. Stay on Barry Lake Trail for 1.8km and either park or take trail to the right. The road gets rough here but manageable with SUV or truck. Stay on trail for 200m until large opening and park here.

From parking area follow atv/off road trail for 500m, then turn left towards the lake at fork. (If you crossed the stream you have gone too far). Boulders are on the left when you get to the lake. 10mim approach.

where to stay

Crown land camping is found right at boulder zone and a few other spots around the lake

history

Found by Alexander Atkin, put a few routes up then put all information for the public.

1.1.4. Bleasdell boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.148577, -77.588381

description

The Bleasdell Boulder, also known as the Glen Miller Rock, was studied by Reverend William Bleasdell in the 1800s who wrote of the rock in scientific journals and so brought it to the attention of geologists across Canada. The Boulder measures 13.4 metres long, 7.3 metres wide and 6.7 metres high (44’ x 24’ x22’)

1.1.5. Bon Echo 123 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.903650, -77.188432

summary

Climbing at Bon Echo has been reinstated. Ref: http://us7.campaign-archive1.com/?u=59cad861d1adf9d51b92a1dd0&id=9f0fa9f4d7&e=3d38a41d57

At 90m, the tallest cliff in Southern Ontario.

description

Bon Echo climbing is actually on a cliff called "Mazinaw Rock" in the Bon Echo provincial park. This is a 2km long granite cliff rising out of Mazinaw lake up to a height of 90m or so. Climbs are generally accessed from the water, so a boat is usually needed.

The Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) - Toronto section maintains a hut and camping area near the climbing and a boat for access to the camping and cliff.

As of Spring 2014, the ACC has a web page describing the hut and climbing at: http://alpineclubtoronto.ca/bonecho/ .

A guide book is (currently as of May 2013) available in PDF at: http://alpineclubtoronto.ca/bonecho/guidebook.html

Grades at Bon Echo are generally "old school" since most routes were put up (and graded) before 1990. Due to the nature of the cliff, even low-graded routes often have impressive exposure. Gear can often be tricky to find, or suspect -- most climbs should be considered PG at best, unless otherwise labelled.

access issues

Climbing has been reinstated.

Ref: http://us7.campaign-archive1.com/?u=59cad861d1adf9d51b92a1dd0&id=9f0fa9f4d7&e=3d38a41d57

The cliff is in a provincial park, and permission to climb is granted based on a Memorandum of Understanding between the ACC and the park.

Bon Echo – Climbers Code of Conduct – July 2016

The Alpine Club of Canada, Toronto Section and Bon Echo Provincial Park have a Memorandum of Understanding that allows us the privilege to climb inside the limits of the Provincial Park. Please follow these rules at all times. Be mindful that the misconduct of just one person can jeopardize our relationship with the park and our ability to climb in this beautiful place.

  1. Helmets are mandatory.

  2. Do not sling trees.

  3. Rappelling is only permitted at designated sites or in case of emergency.

  4. Please do not litter. If possible, help by picking up what others have left behind.

  5. Some routes are closed due to the pictographs at their base or due to environmental reasons; please respect these closures. Route numbers are: 5, 42, 43, 53, 83, 84 and 89

  6. Some routes may be closed in certain seasons due to peregrine falcon nesting; please respect these closures. Occasional route closures will be posted in the Park and at the ACC cabin.

  7. No free-soloing, bouldering or any kind of un-roped climbing is allowed.

  8. No roped-soloing.

  9. Our behavior should be exemplary at all times. Please refrain from using offensive language or profanities.

  10. Do not engage in any activities which a reasonable person would conclude would adversely impact the Club, the Park, the Park’s officials or the general public. In their jurisdiction, Park Wardens have the same authority as OPP officers do. All members are advised that if questioned by a park official it is important to respond in a truthful, timely, and forthright manner.

approach

By boat.

where to stay

Bon Echo provincial park camp ground. ACC hut and camping area.

ethic

  1. Helmets are mandatory.

  2. Do not sling trees.

  3. Rappelling is only permitted at designated sites or in case of emergency.

  4. Please do not litter. If possible, help by picking up what others have left behind.

  5. Some routes are closed due to the pictographs at their base or due to environmental reasons; please respect these closures. Route numbers are: 5, 42, 43, 53, 83, 84 and 89

  6. Some routes may be closed in certain seasons due to peregrine falcon nesting; please respect these closures. Occasional route closures will be posted in the Park and at the ACC cabin.

  7. No free-soloing, bouldering or any kind of un-roped climbing is allowed.

  8. No roped-soloing.

  9. Our behavior should be exemplary at all times. Please refrain from using offensive language or profanities.

  10. Do not engage in any activities which a reasonable person would conclude would adversely impact the Club, the Park, the Park’s officials or the general public.

1.1.6. Calabogie 570 routes in Crag

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 45.253415, -76.785416

summary

Multiple cliffs and breakdown areas around Manitou Mountain near Calabogie Lake.

description

Near the Calabogie Peaks ski resort, there are a multiple cliffs, The Main Cliff seeing the most traffic. The area is primarily granitic gneiss and decent rock. The Main Cliff has seen most development with a renaissance since 2010 after the NCC closed most of the climbing in the Gatineau Park.

The Main Cliff is a kilometre or longer continuous cliff generally ranging in height from 12m-25m. It runs perpendicular to the road, generally giving approach times in the 5-20 minute range along fairly easy hiking trails.

The Lake Cliff faces north east. It is home to a good number of moderate sport climbs with a few hard sport climbs and a variety of good trad lines.

The Skywalk Cliff faces south and gets good all-day sun. It is currently home to a number of moderate to hard sport climbs. The cliff is tall and sustained and most lines are excellent and exciting climbing.

access issues

Fires are PROHIBITED. Under NO circumstances should you start a fire at Calabogie. Respect the new parking restrictions.

HEY CLIMBERS, YES THAT MEANS YOU! THE WAY YOU ACT AT THE CRAG CAN LEAD TO THE ACCESS BEING JEOPARDIZED! CLIFFS ARE BEING CLOSED AND THIS COULD HAPPEN HERE!

Don't play music, no one wants to hear it. Pick yours and others trash up and pack it out. Dig a hole to take a #2 in and burry it! Don't pee under boulders or overhangs because the rain can't wash it away. Fires are banned on Greater Madawaska Crown Land without permit or approved fire pit, of which there are none at any of these crags. Limit the size of your group. Brush your tick marks before you move on. Keep your dog on a leash and pick up after it. Don't smoke around people who don't want to be around it and pack out your butts. Park responsibly.

Here is a good article talking about access issues recently (Read it, it only takes a minute)

https://gripped.com/news/hey-climbers-your-behaviour-can-close-our-crags/

Main Cliff, Calabogie Boulders, and approach are on crown land in a "General Use Area", in particular in the " "Madawaska Highlands General Use Area".

Most of Lake Cliff is entirely on Calabogie Peeks land. They accept no liability for any use of the area, use at your own risk.

Skywalk is entirely on crown land.

The Hydro/High Falls section was closed in 2002 due to deaths from an unexpected opening of the Barrett Chute Dam overflow gates. The land is fenced off and owned by Ontario Hydro.

There are two very real threats to access at this crag that have come up in COVID times. We were a hairs breadth away from having all parking shut down in 2021. Fires and Parking are the only two things the people who have the power to shut down access have every talked about in the last 5 years.

approach

From Ottawa, take highway 17 west, then turn left onto county highway 508 (Calabogie road). Follow the 508 past Calabogie and along the shore of Calabogie lake.

See sub areas for directions to each.

history

The main cliff was first climbed in the late 70s through late 80s, then it dropped in popularity. A few routes near 2nd easy way down continued to be climbed, but the rest of the cliff was rarely visited.

Starting in 2010, when the NCC closed much of the Gatineau park to climbing, climbing at Calabogie started to revitalize, with the development of new routes at Main Cliff, including a fair bit of bolting of anchors and the setting up of a lot of sport routes. This development has continued, including the development of Lake Cliff and Skywalk more recently. All this work now makes Calabogie one of Ontarios's largest climbing areas.

The history of the crag may lead to a differentiation in grades, the old, trad, routes were graded "old school", while the newer routes seem to be being given more "modern" grades, possibly resulting in nearby routes with similar difficulty level easily varying by a couple grades.

1.1.7. Kingston Mills 44 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing, Top roping and other styles

Lat / Long: 44.289251, -76.445301

summary

Small crag close to Kingston.

description

Kingston Mills is the southern-most set of locks on the Rideau Canal system. It has a number of small cliffs (in vertical, and in extent) with a few routes on them. Cliff-top access is generally easy for setting top-ropes, and bolted anchors exist for many of the routes.

The rock is granite and is generally stable, but certain areas (main wall) have large retaining bolts in place.

Walls are listed right to left, as encountered on the approach. Climbs are listed left-to-right.

A guidebook - "Kingston Mills, A Climber's Guide" by Rob Chisnall exists, but has been out of print for years.

access issues

The cliffs are on Parks Canada land, in particular they are under the Rideau Canal Authority. Currently they tolerate climbers, and have done work to make the cliffs safer (2001-2002). They ask that you sign and mail a waiver to them before climbing.

As of spring 2023, the waiver can be found here: https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/downloads/Kingston%20Mills%20Waiver%20and%20Insert%202002.pdf

The Ontario Alliance of Climbers monitors crag status and climbers are encouraged to periodically check the website below to stay up to date with any potential issues, or changes in status.

https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/crag-status/kingston-mills/

Additionally, the land owners whose property borders the cliffs to the south/south-east have posted no trespassing signs on several trees along the lake side trail above/below the cliffs and climbers are asked to please respect these signs.

approach

(Google) map to Kingston Mills, Ontario. There is a parking lot on the south side of the road (for the Rideau canal locks here). Follow the trail from the parking lot down to the buildings beside the locks, then turn right and head down stairs beside the locks (under the railway bridge), until you come to the cliffs on the right. About 5 minutes.

history

Most of the development has been done by Rob Chisnall, with contributions from various locals over the years.

The Canadian Military uses Kingston Mills for training during the late spring and early summer, and has installed several bolts (to facilitate rescue training) well away from the cliff edge.

1.1.8. Little Lake 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 46.110675, -78.108210

description

A series of boulder problems on an exposed wall of rock found on little lake.

approach

Follow highway 17 North form Petawawa, past the town of Stonecliffe. Turn South onto Bissett Creek Road, then West onto Big Bissette Lake Road after 15km or so. Take the next left turn down the hill at the intersection before arriving to a nice camp ground on Little Lake.

From here either walk around the swamp on the East side of the lake or take a water craft 200m or so to the rocks found on the Eastern shore.

history

Development began in 2023.

1.1.9. Marble Rock 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.396705, -76.155963

description

Several boulders and a few small cliffs can be found in this area.

access issues

Located within Marble Rock Conservation Area.

approach

From exit 645 on Highway 401 drive north to Marble Rock Road (about 4.5km). Turn right (East) onto Marble Rock Road and follow it for about 4km to the conservation area.

where to stay

The nearest hotels/motels can be found 10 minutes South in Gananoque, Ontario. Camping can be found within 10 to 20km of the area.

1.1.10. Morton Rock 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.541274, -76.201110

description

Single pitch crag discovered by Ron Halka in 1980.

access issues

Crag is on private land.

approach

Situated just north of Morton and Morton Creek, a short walk west of highway 15. A private drive leading almost to the base of the cliff should not be employed for access; use the gate located between the private road and the road cut to the north. Hike uphill. Suggested parking spot on Jones falls road, north side of Morton Rock (cliff faces south), and walk around to gate or scramble up North side for top rope access.

1.1.11. Norcan Lake 40 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.163915, -76.858013

summary

A beautiful lake west of Calabogie with a number of rock outcrops and cliff faces.

access issues

The cliffs are located on the traditional lands of the Algonquin people and are situated on MNR managed crownland. Please respect the land and its resources. Follow strict Leave No Trace practices. Be mindful of locals and cottagers along the gravel road: drive slowly! Respect the recommended closures during the fall hunting season. And do not risk a fire at the crags – it’s not worth it!

approach

From Calabogie Peaks head west on 508 for 9km until it turns into Hydro Dam Rd. Continue straight for another 6km until you reach the huge Mountain Chute hydroelectric dam. Cross the bridge and continue on Mountain Chute Rd. At the large intersection turn left onto Norcan Lake Lane. Continue on the gravel cottage road for 3km to an obvious pull-off on the left side just before a narrow causeway. 45.174741, -76.885498 / https://goo.gl/maps/2r4yaTs6cEUUKL5T9. Park well off the road; be mindful of folks who might show up later to use the campsite.

1.1.12. Ottawa Boulders 56 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 45.344724, -75.783365

summary

A collection of boulders scattered around the City of Ottawa.

access issues

All areas are on city property with the exception of Conroy pit which is NCC. Ottawa has no official policy on climbing soconsider climbing tolerated. Be prepared for some strange looks and potentially a grumpy citizen telling you off.

1.1.13. Ottawa River Cliffs 0 routes in Area

description

A system of cliffs rising 400-500 off the Ottawa River.

Massive potential.

approach

Approach is best done via boat from the Ontario side.

history

Explored by Ted Mosquin, Michael Tomlinson and Pat Duffy in 1956.

1.1.14. Petawawa Bouldering 52 routes in Feature

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 45.814990, -77.331691

description

There's a number of great bouldering spots of excellent rock within the Petawawa area.

approach

Parking located nearby with a short approach

history

Lots of climbers in the area, many belonging to the Petawawa Indoor Rock Climbing Club.

1.1.15. 'Prior Chosspit 5 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 45.419934, -76.344068

summary

This area is an old rail cut and part of the Ottawa Valley Trail.

description

Both sides of the cut have granite walls from 10 to 20 feet tall with intermittent breakdown areas. The rock is slab to vert and has large amounts of loose rock and is very friable. Every hold should be treated with suspicion as it was a blasted rock cut and it has seen little to no climbing traffic. Landings are all ok on the sloping drop-off of the old rail bed. A few hundred potential lines exist, expect all of them to be VB-V2 barring. 100+ move traverses also possible. Once loose rock has been removed the granite is good and yields nice small edges.

Routes listed from Arnprior out.

approach

Park in Arnprior on William or Thomas. Walk down the trail about 1km.

ethic

Maintain a low profile. Park respectable. No fires. No off leash dogs. Yield trail to ATVs and Snowmobiles and do not block trail. Respect no trespassing signs. Do not approach highway.

1.1.16. Red Rock: Pet Wall 95 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 45.678728, -77.489535

summary

3 cliffs (one largish, two smallish) and a boulder field out in the woods near Pembroke, Ontario.

There is easily enough rock to double the number of routes here!

description

3 cliffs (one largish, two smallish) and a boulder field out in the woods near Pembroke, Ontario.

Topo: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_OiCts4x0fUVG4xNWkzb2xpYW1YdkdQYnU2OXZVYTlNMU1v/view?usp=drivesdk&resourcekey=0-wiM3Pb-xFDIDSECS9h7UmQ

Note: most lines were bolted with the expectation that a stick-clip would be used. Bring one, or make one from a convenient branch.

access issues

Most of the cliff and approach is on crown land. Some of the climbing is on private land -- the owner (John Jeffrey) has, historically, been friendly. "He likes to talk." Please be courteous and friendly if you meet him -- likely running around on a 4-wheeler.

There are, also, usually active nesting Peregrine falcons on the left side of the main cliff (left of the waterfall) -- avoid this area during the spring and summer months.

approach

From highway 17 in Pembroke, drive west (left if coming from Ottawa/east) on county road 58 / Round Lake road for about 28km. At that point, there will be a small picnic/parking area on the left, pull in here and park. (If you reach Round Lake, you have gone too far.) This is Jacks Lakes picnic area, though not signed as such.

Walk back up the road about 1/2 a km, until just past a wire guardrail on right, at which point there should be an obvious trail descending into the woods to the right. Follow this to a shallow crossing with a bridge that as of 2023 has been mostly salvaged and resurrected, cross at this point. Wet-appropriate foot wear may be desirable and/or a stick to provide balance. On the far side, follow the obvious path, winding through the woods, across what looks like a portage trail until it widens, then t-junctions with a logging road. (Straight-ahead, through the trees, is a sand pit.)

Turn left, and follow the logging road as it skirts around the sand pit. After a while, there's be a clear view of the sand-pit on the right, looking slightly backwards. At this point follow the road away from the sandpit. Shortly, there will be a trail heading off to the left marked by tape. This trail heads towards a double-decker boulder, visible almost immediately after leaving the logging road.

Continue along the trail until you reach the boulder field. The boulder field has seen significant water erosion and the path though it is essential gone. Make you way upslope and right through the boulders.. Do not enter the talus. The trail will materialize at the far side and shortly you'll reach a fallen maple tree.

From this point, the trail branches to the various cliffs -- see detailed approach information on each cliff. You will see name plates for each cliff as you get close.

ethic

Top Roping: Most/all routes have top-anchors. Please do not pass rope directly through the fixed gear for top-roping, use your own gear & only use the top-anchors for final lower or rappel.

1.1.17. Sullivan Lake 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 45.136659, -76.934526

summary

The boulders are located on the traditional lands of the Algonquin people and are situated on MNR managed crownland. Please respect the land and its resources. Follow strict Leave No Trace practices. Be mindful of locals and cottagers along the gravel road: drive slowly! Respect the recommended closures during the fall hunting season. And do not risk a fire at the crags – it’s not worth it!

description

Wide range of different erratic sizes with some small faces offering bouldering, trad climbing and a few sport routes.

approach

Driving Directions

From Ottawa, follow the directions to the main Calabogie Climbing/Bouldering area. Drive past the parking lot and continue on this road (508). It will eventually turn into Hydro Dam Road and bring you to the dam.

Hang a left onto Mountain Chute Road, cross the bridge and drive up the hill. At the top of the hill you will come to the intersection with Norcan Lake Road (45.1911, -76.90292). The directions below are from this intersection. Reset your trip odometer here if you want to follow the mileage.

This is the track for the drive from the intersection to the trailhead. https://www.alltrails.com/explore/map/drive-f2c3b25

0.0 km - Continue on Mountain Chute Road through the staging area.

0.3 km - Turn left onto Hunt Camp Lane.

4.0 km - Stay right continuing on Hunt Camp Lane.

5.7 km - Turn left, continuing on Hunt Camp Lane.

6.2 km - Turn left, leaving Hunt Camp Lane.

6.5 km - Turn left.

8.1 km - Stay right.

8.6 km - Park where the ATV trail branches right off the main road. (45.14649, -76.93635)

Most of the drive is on a well maintained gravel road. The last 2 km is on a forest service road that is currently in decent condition, with a few rough spots. As of Fall 2023, a regular clearance 2WD vehicle can make the drive.

Expect about a 1/2 hour drive past the main Calabogie parking area.

Approach

This is the track for the hike from the parking to the campsite at Sullivan Lake. https://www.alltrails.com/explore/map/sullivan-lake-59f51fd

You can expect the approach to take around 30 minutes. Most of the approach is along wide, well established ATV trails.

0.0 km - Follow the ATV trail that branches right from the road. This first section is mostly uphill.

0.5 km - Just past the top of the hill, make a sharp left onto another trail. Follow this for 100 meters.

0.6 km - Turn right and follow the obvious trail down the hill.

1 km - A few small boulders near the trail. These are the Goldilocks boulders.

1.5 km - Sullivan Lake will come into view. Don't go there yet. Follow the ATV trail as it turns left.

1.7 km - The lake will come into view again. Do NOT follow the ATV trail as it cuts left again. Instead, head right and down to the main campsite on the shore.

1.8 km - Admire the camp site, then cut left and follow the trail along the shore.

2.0 km - Behold the mega boulder. This is the main area. Follow the trail through this area and up the hill to the Snowshoe Lake boulders.

2.15km - Snowshoe Lake boulders

where to stay

Crown land camping is found on both Sullivan and Snowshoe Lake

history

Old hangers and tat are found on top of the the mega line. Would love to know who put them up there.

1.1.18. Wabun Lake 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 45.226694, -76.831206

summary

Quiet spot right on the water with great (mostly) moderate climbing. A good mix of sport and trad. Two main areas (Lake Cliff and Hill Side Cliff), with lots of potential for more routes.

description

Wabun is a unique area that offers an abundance of crown land camping with rock climbing basically right off the water. There are two sections - Lake Side and Hill Side. Most development has happened on Lake Side with both trad and sport routes from 5.6 - 5.10. Hill side has one two pitch trad line and two long 30+ meter sport routes.

Both cliffs are in the shade till noon then get sun full day. The lake side cliff also offers cliff jumping for hot summer afternoons.

access issues

This cliff is located on crown land

approach

Drive the 508 past calabogie and Eagles nest, continue straight on Hydro Dam Road (where the 508 turns right) to wabun lake Rd. This is a forest access rd and can be rough but manageable. (August 2023, in pretty good shape.) Arrive at the wabun lake parking area/boat launch and paddle to the far end of lake towards the cliffs. Lakeside cliff is only accessible from water. The ledge where the routes start does not connect back to the main land. A bridge/ ropes plan to be added to make ledge accessible from main land. Lake side also has no top cliff access and all routes must be lead to set a top rope if wanted.

The hillside section is approachable on land using atv/4x4 trail following the hydro lines then cut left into bush. No official trail exists yet. Or by paddling (climber's) right from Lake Cliff, to a landing spot just left of a beaver lodge. Then do a short bushwhack up to the cliff.

Great lookout where atv trail comes to the top of the hill with view of Wabun Lake and Madawaska River.

where to stay

There is crown land paddle in campsites available all over the lake. The lake is popular for campers in the summer but less busy in the shoulder seasons. Car camping also available at parking lot.

ethic

All routes put up so far are either full trad or sport. No mixed climbs

history

Alex Atkin and Josh Ferguson put the first route up in spring of 2018. Progression of cliff has been slow with a few routes added each year but now has 11 established routes with plenty of space for new routes.

1.1.19. Wilderness Tours Bay 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 45.716527, -76.719491

summary

A half shaded half sunny area on the right side of the Wilderness Tours Bay with Climbable routes and uncharted/untouched rock features/boulders.

description

This area can be described as a large cliff face with a tree overhanging the entire section, making it shady during certain times. There is a large boulder to the right of the cliff face which has features of particular interest. The cliffside features a vertical/slabby section directly beside a more overhanging angled section.

access issues

(from the Wilderness Tours Beach) To get to this area, you must walk through tall grass which could contain ticks and spots of poison ivy. Christian Ward has made efforts to clear a direct path when travelling during high tide, although during low tide there is a slippery but clear path to the area on the side of the bay.

approach

(from the Wilderness Tours Beach) The approach will take you across the "lovers bridge", then down to the left past a large smooth boulder covered in moss. You will then walk through sections of tall grass and pockets to arrive at the first rock "outcrop" that you can see with a sharp boulder peaking out of the shrubs. It is a short walk but it is unpredictable. Once you reach the boulder, walk past it a few steps to the section under the tree of the cliffside. Now you're there!

where to stay

A good place to rest gear and other amenities is directly below the shading the tree provides on a large rock that rests in the ground.

ethic

Accessing the boulder is not breaking any rules or destroying nature. And the boulder is completely natural with its holds and features.

"One thing I must mention is that you can probably access this area without being a guest or staff member at Wilderness Tours, but I cannot guarantee that" - Christian Ward

history

Christian Ward first stumbled across this boulder while paddleboarding in the Wilderness Tours Bay, He then went to investigate the next day and was met with a very promising boulder and cliffside. He spent the next few weeks brushing off dirt and moss, as well as clearing spiderwebs and moving many smaller rocks out of the way for crash pads underneath the boulder.

1.1.20. Altitude Gym 0 routes in Gym

description

The Kanata mostly-bouldering gym, rather than the older, better known, Altitude climbing gym across the river in Quebec: https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/canada/quebec/area/1649644965

501 Palladium Dr

Kanata

Ontario K2V 1A6 Canada

http://altitudegym.ca/en/kanata/

call: (613) 903-5989

1.1.21. Coyote Rock Gym 0 routes in Gym

description

A generally friendly gym in eastern Ottawa.

1737B St Laurent Boulevard Ottawa, ON K1G 3V4

http://www.coyoterockgym.ca/

call: (613) 739-4074

approach

Entrance is around back, in an industrial/ware-housing looking area.

1.1.22. The Boiler Room - Belleville 0 routes in Gym

summary

An excellent modern bouldering gym. https://www.boilerroom.ca/belleville.html

1.1.23. The Boiler Room - Kingston 0 routes in Gym

summary

Brand new location as of Fall 2021. 993 Princess St.

https://www.boilerroom.ca/kingston.html

1.1.24. The Kingston Bouldering Cooperative 0 routes in Gym

description

12 Cataraqui Street

Kingston

Ontario K7K 3A7 Canada

http://www.kingstonboulderingcoop.com/

call:

1.1.25. Vertical Reality 0 routes in Gym

summary

Closed as of December 30th, 2018.

description

161 Middle Street

Ottawa

Ontario Canada

http://www.verticalreal.com/

call: (613) 569-3903

161 Middle Street Victoria Island Ottawa, Ontario K2H 8N5

http://www.verticalreal.com/home/index_e.php

history

The gym was established by the legendary Peter Slivka in 1993 and became a go-to for many Ottawa climbers.

The gym went through a facelift in 2011 when Slivka moved back to his home country of Slovakia and Petra, his daughter, became the new owner.

VR closed as of December 30th, 2018, when the NCC (the owner of the property) closed all of Victoria Island for a soil remediation project.

The island is projected to be re-opened around 2025, however the gym is not expected to re-open at the old location.

1.1.26. Landons Bay 0 routes in Crag

access issues

As of November 2021, Parks Canada has restricted all climbing access at Landon Bay.

Do NOT access the crag by parking at the end of Tumbledown Road and crossing the bay. The land owners will not permit it.

approach

As the crag is located above the bay, approach during the summer is best done via canoe.

In winter, it's best to park along the Thousands Islands Parkway and ski or snowshoe across the bay once the ice is safe. Beware, the ice conditions on the bay can vary greatly and change quickly. Do NOT access the crag by parking at the end of Tumbledown Road and crossing the bay. The land owners will not permit it.

1.1.27. Little Blue Mountain 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.352286, -76.165788

access issues

Private property. Closed to climbing.

1.1.28. Rock Dunder 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.526465, -76.220232

summary

An old boy scout hiking trail that was bequeathed to a private trust, Rock Dunder is a very popular hiking trail up to a promontory of rock about 300 feet above the Rideau River waterway valley.

description

Before it was given to the private trust the front of the cliff was bolted. Top anchor is accessible by a narrow ledge. Lots of opportunity for trad climbs around. A few cool overhangs for bouldering.

access issues

Rideau Waterway Trust has restricted climbing or development of any kind in the area. Parking at the trail head costs $10/car for the day.

approach

Hike in from trail head, once at top of Rock Dunder scramble down the side of the obvious nose of rock to find anchors on the face of steepest section of cliff.

1.2. South-Western Ontario 2,251 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 43.601929, -80.413058

description

The areas of Ontario generally surrounded by the three great lakes: Ontario, Erie, and Huron. The largest population centre is Toronto, and the megapolis that extends around the north-western to western shores of Lake Ontario.

Much of the climbing in the area is on the limestone of the Niagara escarpment.

1.2.1. Halton Region 763 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 43.516062, -79.894287

description

These are the "Toronto" crags, being an approximately 40 minute drive from Toronto. The crags listed here are on Conservation Halton land (http://www.conservationhalton.on.ca/) and include both sport and trad routes. Top-roping is prohibited except at 'Rattlesnake Point', 'Buffalo Crag' and 'Bottle Glass' where top-anchors have been installed. As a result of heavy traffic due to the proximity to Toronto many of these routes are heavily polished and may climb much harder than their purported grade.

1.2.2. Beaver Valley 544 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 44.394839, -80.362348

summary

Want to contribute to route development? Go to the Ontario Climbing page and contribute to the Hardware Fund (or grab a printed guidebook while helping out!) https://www.ontarioclimbing.com/

description

The Beaver Valley is home to some of the best moderate sport climbing on the Niagara Escarpment. Many of the crags have seen recent development with routes being (re)bolted to modern standards.

Due to changes in bolting, it is best to always take bolt number information with caution.

ethic

Leave no trace and tread lightly! Please refer to https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/climbers/getting-outside

Red tagged route: do not touch - route is a closed project and/or bolting is unfinished (i.e. dangerous).

1.2.3. Bruce Peninsula 356 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 44.903964, -81.244163

summary

Want to contribute to route development? Go to the Ontario Climbing page and contribute to the Hardware Fund (or grab a printed guidebook while helping out!) https://www.ontarioclimbing.com/

1.2.4. Niagara Glen 392 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.130968, -79.056261

summary

Bouldering area throughout the wooded trails at Niagara Glen Nature Reserve.

access issues

To boulder at the Niagara Glen, a permit is required. Permits can be purchased at the Niagara Glen Nature Center (3050 Niagara Parkway) or at the Butterfly Conservatory (2565 Niagara Parkway). They cost $40 and require a signed waiver. Bouldering pemits also include an annual parking pass. Note that some boulders are currently closed due to environmental impact concerns. For more information on permits, trails and which boulders are open/closed see https://www.niagaraparks.com/visit-niagara-parks/nature-activities/bouldering/

approach

Park at the Nature Center and take a short walk to the metal stairs down to the trails - head north for Bizzaro World, Central Area, The Old Country, and Wonderland; head south for Land of Oz, Romper Room, and Waterworld.

ethic

Bouldering Rules:

  1. All Boulder's must sign and submit a completed waiver, pay the required fee and obtain a permit prior to bouldering. Boulder's must carry a permit with them while engaging in bouldering on NPC (Niagara Parks Commission).

  2. Permits are non-transferable

  3. Boulders must exercise all appropriate safety measures during bouldering must adhere to the principle of "your safety is your responsibility"

  4. Boulder's must recognize the risks inherent in their activities and ensure that they have the knowledge, skills and physical fitness to participate.

  5. Boulder's must be properly trained and equipped.

  6. Climbing safety and safety equipment is the responsibility of the participant.

  7. Boulder's must observe and obey Niagara Parks Act and Regulations, NPC policies and rules, and all fencing, barriers, and signs. Failure to comply may result in withholding or revocation of Permits.

  8. Activities are limited to boulders, trails and areas sanctioned by NPC.

  9. Bouldering is secondary to the protection of the boulders' geological, biological and cultural heritage. Boulder's must adhere to the "leave no trace" principle.

  10. Minors (under the age of majority in Ontario) participating in bouldering must be accompanied and supervised by a parent or legal guardian. Issuance of a Permit for participation by minors is subject to completion and submission of a waiver signed by the parent or legal guardian.

  11. Boulder's must not remove or disturb natural resources (e.g. vegetation, soil) or cultural resources from the boulders or any area surrounding the boulders. 12. Topping out is permitted only on those boulders explicitly approved for topping out by NPC.

  12. NPC has the authority to limit the number of Boulder's at specific boulders on NPC property, in its sole discretion. 14. Camping and fires are strictly prohibited on NPC property.

  13. Boulder's must report any violations of these Rules by Boulder's or non-boulder's to NPC for enforcement.

  14. Boulder's must keep dogs on leashes at all times while on NPC property and place all dog waste in garbage receptacles.

  15. The use of drugs or alcohol while on NPC property is prohibited.

  16. Boulder's must keep the peace when bouldering at the Niagara Glen. In order to reduce disturbances to others, yelling is to be kept to a minimum. Use of profane language is prohibited.

  17. NPC reserves the right to amend or cancel the Bouldering activities, or change the NPC Bouldering Rules, at any time without notice and in its sole discretion. leave no trace

  18. Hiking in the Niagara Glen is only permitted between the hours of sunrise and Sunset

1.2.5. Rockwood 28 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.611796, -80.140205

access issues

This crag is closed. Refer to the Ontario Alliance of Climbers crag status page for more information.

https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/crag-status/rockwood/

1.2.6. Campden Crag 39 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.149130, -79.445367

description

Campden Crag is near the Cave Springs Vineyard east of Beamsville. The routes are short but the rock is of good quality.

access issues

This crag is closed. Refer to the Ontario Alliance of Climbers crag status page for more information.

https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/crag-status/campden-crag/

approach

Park at the Cave Springs vineyard and walk 5 minutes.

1.2.7. McCrae Lake 16 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 44.917407, -79.793449

summary

Want to contribute to route development? Go to the Ontario Climbing page and contribute to the Hardware Fund (or grab a printed guidebook while helping out!) https://www.ontarioclimbing.com/

description

The Crow’s Nest Lookout is situated on a 100-foot granite cliff overlooking the untarnished waters of McCrae Lake.

access issues

Due to the easy access for free camping, the small parking lot fills up quickly. If you are parked along the road in the no parking zone you WILL get towed, especially if staying overnight. There is overflow parking (10min walk) here :44.919187,-79.771913 If that is also full, you can puy a parking pass at Wawautosa Trading Post (20min walk)

approach

Take the backpacking trail west from the parking lot to Crow's Nest (also called "Eagle's Nest"). Follow the McCrae Lake Trail marked with yellow blazes for about 3.5km. Alternatively, canoe in from the parking lot with a small portage to get to Mccrae lake. https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/viewer?hl=en_US&mid=1McYa0zEGdRy60nQZQnpiMyFVtLM&ll=44.92281487902622%2C-79.7733322300415&z=13

where to stay

1.2.8. Hamilton 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
Bouldering and Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 43.229331, -79.858942

1.2.9. Oli's Crag 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.452238, -80.301345

summary

The highest density of boulder problems in Ontario! Not a destination crag… Only climb here out of desperation.

description

Slightly overhung outcrop of surprisingly solid rock and interesting holds, with safe and flat landings. Almost all the problems are sit starts and eliminates (only use the hand holds in the pictures uploaded to each problem) and the foot rail is out of bounds unless stated otherwise. Climbs are labelled left to right facing the wall. Dry in the winter. Seeps during snow melt and wet after rain. Bug spray mandatory during the summer (marsh nearby).

access issues

The forest is on private property but has been established as a popular hiking and dog walking area. Keep noise to a minimum to avoid unwanted attention and access issues.

approach

The best way to get here without trampling vegetation, breaking trees and creating visible paths which may jeopardize access is as follows: park on Blackbridge road near the bridge and walk west towards the train tracks. Turn right onto the path with rock stairs just before the train tracks and follow the ATV path ~150 meters. Keep walking past the rocky outcrop for ~30 meters and then turn right at the next ATV trail down a gentle hill for ~50 meters (go around felled trees blocking the path). At the freshly cut tree stump next to the path where there is a big rut in the track, turn right at the tree and follow the clearing by sticking just to the right of the cedar trees to find the main wall.

ethic

Don't add to the ridiculous amount of litter that is already everywhere on this property. Do not start fires. Topping out not recommended due to vegetation.

history

Discovered and developed by Olivier GK and friends during the pandemic gym closures.

1.2.10. Christie Pits Park 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.664093, -79.421007

1.2.11. Durham Buildering 7 routes in Region

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.833807, -78.941457

summary

Buildery bouldering for the desperate eastsiders

description

Man made outdoor boulder problems

1.2.12. Owen Sound Look Out 0 routes in Area

summary

The Owen Sound Look Out climbing area is a fun and adventure set of easy 5.6 to 5.9s, Routes are still being found and hopefully will have gear set up on routes soon.

description

Most of the climbing is on Limestone with loose rock which can pose a problem but also adds to this area of climbing as holds are always changing. Most of the climbs include nice hand and foot holds.

access issues

Loose rocks on the trails proper shoes are advised.

approach

Parking can be found around the Owen Sound tour parking areas. Once Infront of the tower continue down to trail until the turn to the right if you keep going straight there will be a trail with White trail blazes follow them until you get to the rock faces.

where to stay

There are many Hotel options in Owen Sound that are easy to get to the climbing area and back every night.

ethic

General Ethic - Bring out what you bring in.

1.2.13. Climber's Corner 0 routes in Gym

summary

Collingwoods Climbing Gym

1.2.14. Guelph Grotto 0 routes in Gym

description

199 Victoria Road South

Guelph

Ontario Canada

https://guelphgrotto.com/

call: (519) 767-0838

1.2.15. Junction Climbing Centre 0 routes in Gym

description

Nice climbing gym

1030 Elias St

London

Ontario N5W 3P6 Canada

http://junctionclimbing.com/

call: 5194381717

1.2.16. Grand River Rocks Kitchener 0 routes in Gym

description

1-50 Borden Avenue South

Kitchener

Ontario N2G 3R5 Canada

http://grandriverrocks.com/

call: 519-742-1389

1.2.17. Grand River Rocks Waterloo 66 routes in Gym

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.475477, -80.520263

description

A bouldering-only gym with a moon board, a training area, a gear shop, and a workout area open to all members and daypass users.

1.2.18. True North Climbing Inc. 20 routes in Gym

Summary:
Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.745525, -79.474311

description

75 Carl Hall Rd

Toronto

Canada M3K 2B9 Canada

https://www.truenorthclimbing.com/

call: (416) 398-7625

1.2.19. Boulderz - Etobicoke 0 routes in Gym

description

80 The East Mall Unit 9

Etobicoke

Ontario M8Z 5X1 Canada

http://www.boulderzclimbing.com/etobicoke/

call: 416-255-6676

1.2.20. Up The Bloc 0 routes in Gym

description

1224 Dundas Street East

Mississauga

Ontario Canada

http://www.upthebloc.com/

call:

1.2.21. Boulderz Climbing Centre 0 routes in Gym

description

1444 Dupont Street

Toronto

Ontario Canada

http://www.boulderzclimbing.com/

call: (416) 516-6666

1.2.22. Rock & Rope Climbing Centre 0 routes in Gym

description

280 Perry St. unit 16

Peterborough

Ontario K9J 2J4 Canada

http://www.rockandrope.com/

call: (705) 745-2333

1.2.23. Ajax Rock Oasis 0 routes in Gym

summary

Ajax Rock Oasis, Durham Region’s original indoor climbing gym. We’re in the heart of Ajax, a hidden gem located inside the Ajax Community Centre at 75 Centennial Rd. We’ve been in operation since 2004 and we boast 22′ walls, 60+ routes, 40+ boulder problems, 3 autobelays, and a great climbing family that would love to welcome you. Check us out and we’ll get you on the wall!

description

75 Centennial Road

Ajax, ON

L1S 4S4 Canada

ajaxrockoasis.com

call: (905) 231-3434

approach

Located inside the Ajax Community Centre. Parking is free, bike racks and bussing available.

1.2.24. Peaks Indoor Rock Climbing Club 0 routes in Gym

description

THIS GYM IS PERMANENTLY CLOSED.

1.2.25. Hub Climbing 0 routes in Gym

description

165 McIntosh Dr

Markham

Ontario L3R 0N6 Canada

http://hubclimbing.com/

call: 905 604-4588

1.2.26. Active Fitness Centre 0 routes in Gym

description

69 Peter St. S

Orillia

Ontario L3V 7A3 Canada

call: (705) 327-2041

1.2.27. Of Rock & Chalk 0 routes in Gym

description

482 Ontario Steet

Newmarket

Ontario L3Y 2K7 Canada

http://rockandchalk.com/

call: (905) 895-7625

1.2.28. The Cave 0 routes in Gym

description

5-1705 Argentia Rd

Mississauga

Ontario L5N 3A9 Canada

http://www.climbingthecave.ca/

call: 647-300-2715

1.2.29. Gravity Climbing Gym 0 routes in Gym

description

70 Frid Street

Hamilton

Ontario L8P 4M4 Canada

https://www.gravityclimbinggym.com/

call: (905) 522-8778

1.2.30. Toronto Climbing Academy 0 routes in Gym

description

11 Curity Ave

Toronto

Ontario M4B 1X4 Canada

http://www.climbingacademy.com/

call: (416) 406-5900

1.2.31. Basecamp Climbing 0 routes in Gym

description

677 Bloor St W

Toronto

Ontario M6G 1L3 Canada

https://basecampclimbing.ca/

call: (905) 483 8508

1.2.32. Joe Rockheads Climbing Gym 0 routes in Gym

description

29 Fraser Ave.

Toronto

Ontario M6K 1Y7 Canada

http://www.joerockheads.com/

call: (416) 538-7670

1.2.33. University of Guelph Climbing Club 0 routes in Gym

description

Athletic Center on East Ring Rd.

Guelph

Ontario N1G 2W1 Canada

call: (519) 824-4120

1.2.34. Wilfrid Laurier University Athletic Complex - Rock Climbing Gym 0 routes in Gym

description

75 University Avenue West

Waterloo

Ontario N2L 3C5 Canada

https://www.laurierathletics.com/generatePage.php?ID=7

call: (519) 884-0710

1.2.35. The Core Climbing Gym 0 routes in Gym

description

500 Jamieson Pkwy

Cambridge

Ontario N3C 0G5 Canada

https://www.thecoreclimbing.ca/

call: (519) 651-2906

1.2.36. Windsor Rock Gym 0 routes in Gym

description

1215 Walker Road

Windsor

Ontario N8Y 2N9 Canada

http://www.windsorrockgym.com/

call: 519.992.7505

1.2.37. Intencity at East Park Golf Gardens and Intencity 0 routes in Gym

description

1275 Hamilton Road

London

Ontario ON N5W 1B1 Canada

http://www.eastparkgolf.com/activities/indoor/

call: (519) 451-2950

1.2.38. Bracebridge Sportsplex 0 routes in Gym

description

100 Clearbrook Trail

Bracebridge

Ontario P1L 0A3 Canada

http://www.bracebridge.ca/en/index.aspx

call: 1-705-645-3037

1.2.39. Alt Rock 0 routes in Gym

description

Bouldering Gym

approach

445 Dunlop St, Barrie, ON

1.2.40. Gravity 0 routes in Gym

summary

Tallest walls in the area.

description

Climbing gym in Hamilton, ON.

1.3. Central Ontario 397 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.407053, -81.100833

approach

Near Mchigeeng on Manitoulin Island

1.3.1. Greater Sudbury 54 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.510430, -80.991817

description

A few small cliffs and boulders within the greater Sudbury area.

1.3.2. Manitoulin Island 0 routes in Crag

description

This area has 100s of meters of 15-25m high cliffs accessible from the "Cup and Saucer". However climbing is not permitted in this nature reserve due to sensitive ecosystems.

Please refer to the following link for more information about the nature reserves rare species:

http://escarpment.ca/nature-reserves/sensitive-ecosystems/rare-species/

1.3.3. Madawaska Highlands 143 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 45.287660, -77.473938

summary

The centre of winter climbing in Southern Ontario

1.3.4. Kushog Lake 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 45.124521, -78.816750

summary

Ice climbing at two sections across the lake from parking.

approach

Cross the lake. Climbs visible from road/lake

where to stay

$5 for parking at Ox Narrows Lodge

1.3.5. North Bay Area 51 routes in Area

Summary:
Bouldering, Top roping and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.117763, -79.432044

summary

Like much of Northern Ontario this area is littered with glacier erratics and scarred granite bluffs we just have to find more of them!

description

These routes are some of the closest known rock climbing to North Bay city centre

access issues

Some highway climbing. Be aware of highway vehicles and take care with where you park.

approach

Crags in this area are mainly within steps from your vehicle. Some other cliffs have been scouted that involve near hour long hikes. Working on developing more areas

1.3.6. Gold Mine 79 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 46.617736, -82.886455

summary

(Info taken from Climb Sudbury www.climbsudbury.com) Gold Mine is one of latest additions to the northern climbing scene. It has an abundance of boulders in a very unique and northern landscape.

description

From Sudbury, take the Trans Canada highway west towards Sault Ste. Marie. At about 108 km out of Sudbury, take Hwy 108 north towards Elliot Lake and travel north for 64 km, which will take you through Elliot Lake and the 108 will turn into the 639. After 64 km, the road will end at Hwy 546 - at this point turn left and venture southwest for 7.6 km, where you will find the trail into the crag. Car Park Coordinates: 46°37'01.0"N 82°53'09.7"W

approach

The trail is on the opposite side of the road from the parking area. Follow the trail until you see rocks (3-5 minutes) and the trail will split off left towards Ant Boulder(west) and right towards Alexander the Great Boulder (east).

where to stay

The crown land offers some fantastic camping nearby at the 10.7 km mark south from the Hwy 546 turn. Turn left onto the logging road and continue for 300 m and camp along the river bank area.

history

For more info see www.climbsudbury.com/gold-mine

1.3.7. Eyeball 48 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.490023, -83.168684

description

The Eyeball is a stupendous cliff system 2.5 km long and 115 m tall at its highest point. It has many different faces of different heights, sizes, angle and rock quality. There is a lifetime’s worth of climbing here. Read more on climbsudbury.com

access issues

The road leading to the Eyeball does indeed pass through private property, namely the farm that you pass by a kilometre from Hwy 554. The farmers who own this property are devout Seventh Day Adventists, to whom Saturday is the holy day of the week. As a result, the farmers close and lock the gate opposite their house from Friday sunset to Saturday sunset. This poses some access problems for your regular run-of-the-mill weekend warrior from Toronto, because it’s next to impossible to make the 6-hour drive from Toronto after work on a Friday and get through the gate before sunset. Source climbsudbury.com

approach

ethic

history

1.3.8. Gros Cap 15 routes in Field

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 46.532392, -84.584472

approach

Park at the gros cap parking lot. There are two trails, do not take the one that is right beside the parking lot that is directly on the left. Instead, walk back up the road 20 metres and you will see another trail on the left -- take this one. Follow the widest trail uphill for 5 to 10 minutes (if you pass some forested cliffs you're on the right track. At the top of the trail take another left and it's a 2-5 minute walk until you hit the boulder field.

history

Appears to be a bit of sport climbing bolts along adjacent cliffs in the area.

1.4. Northern Ontario 824 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad climbing, Top roping and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.597174, -87.326901

1.4.1. Kenora 142 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 49.925598, -94.610696

1.4.2. Blue Lake 30 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.912732, -93.502528

summary

At the waters edge, within a provincal park

description

All free Climbing

access issues

You have to check in at the park office prior to climbing.

approach

You can boat across or walk down the trail.

where to stay

Camp ground or hotel in Dryden

ethic

No new routes or bolts without park managment permission

history

Est in 2006

1.4.3. Edison Lake 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
Rock climbing and Trad climbing

1.4.4. Thunder Bay 635 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing, Top roping and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.755120, -88.149508

summary

A variety of cliffs on different types of stone in the gorgeous setting of the north shore of Lake Superior.

description

Climbing in and around Thunder Bay. Generally different crags and cliffs within about a 2-hour drive of the city of Thunder Bay. The majority of crags are diabase with local sandstone and granite cliffs.

As of 2016, the most current guide to climbs in this area is "Thunder Bay Climbing: A guide to Northwestern Ontario's Best Kept Secret" by Aric Fishman. (https://outdoorskillsandthrills.com/tbay-climbing-guidebook)

Sub-areas ordered roughly west to east.

access issues

Many of the crags on on private land or private land needs to be crossed to access the crag. Please respect the area, it is a privilege to be allowed to climb at these crags.

Leave no trace, respect other parties, and be mindful if you have music or dogs at the crag.

where to stay

There is a campsite on Black Sturgeon Road.

Alternatively there is camping at the Nipigon Marina, Chippewa Park, and other near the city of Thunder Bay.

1.4.5. Montreal River-South Bay 0 routes in Crag

1.4.6. River Bend Rock 0 routes in Crag

1.4.7. Bellevue Tower 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Rock climbing

1.4.8. Ranwick Rock-Keetes Bluff 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Rock climbing

1.4.9. Summerian Slabs 0 routes in Crag

1.4.10. White Pine Dome 0 routes in Crag

1.4.11. Robertsons Ridge 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Rock climbing

1.4.12. Hwy 72 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing

1.4.13. The Nooks 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Bouldering
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