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Oli's Crag

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Summary

The highest density of boulder problems in Ontario!

Description

Slightly overhung outcrop of surprisingly solid rock and interesting holds, with safe and flat landings. Almost all the problems are sit starts and eliminates (only use the hand holds in the pictures uploaded to each problem) and the foot rail is out of bounds unless stated otherwise. Climbs are labelled left to right facing the wall. Dry in the winter. Seeps during snow melt. Bug spray mandatory during the summer (marsh nearby). Not a destination crag… Only climb here out of desperation.

Access issues

The forest is on private property but has been established as a popular hiking and dog walking area. Keep noise to a minimum to avoid unwanted attention and access issues.

Approach

The best way to get here without trampling vegetation, breaking trees and creating visible paths which may jeopardize access is as follows: park on Blackbridge road near the bridge and walk west towards the train tracks. Turn right onto the path with rock stairs just before the train tracks and follow the ATV path ~150 meters. Keep walking past the rocky outcrop for ~30 meters and then turn right at the next ATV trail down a gentle hill for ~50 meters. At the tree that is leaning over the path, turn right at the tree and follow the clearing by sticking just to the right of the cedar trees to find the main wall.

Ethic

Don't add to the ridiculous amount of litter that is already everywhere on this property. Do not start fires. Topping out not recommended due to vegetation.

History

History timeline chart

Discovered and developed by Olivier GK and friends during the pandemic gym closures.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Sit start at the left-side of the wall. RH start on the white rock and LH start on the good sidepull around the corner. Catch and match the good jug, followed by LH in hidden hold and RH to open crimp (optional). RH to good hold deep in the big hole that you can't see (optional). Finish up on the jug at the top left of the wall.

FA: Christina K, 8 Apr 2021

Worthwhile eliminate traverse - interesting variety of moves for a short traverse. Climbs better than the reverse traverse. Sit start and start as per Pinga's Displeasure to match the jug. Move RH then LH to ledges. Use knee bars to get RH to slopey ledge and LH to nice pinch. RH to good hold, LH to tenuous two finger pinch, RH to good two finger pinch, LH back onto the good hold. Move your feet on and do a big span move out right to a great undercling. Move your feet again and get the good ledge with LH. Match on the jug. Keep your feet off the bottom rail at all times (off limits)

FA: Olivier GK, 17 Mar 2021

Sit start on good ledge and big pocket. Big dynamic move out right to a good hold with thumb catch. Left hand up to 3 finger shallow pocket, right to the "Wilpena Pinch" wide pinch (or sidepull). Awkward dynamic move to good ledge. Match on a jug at the top to finish. The bottom ledge is out of bounds for this one.

FA: Jesse N, 24 May 2021

Sit start on the left-most jug (same as "Pinga's Displeasure"). Crunch your way right avoiding any holds above the seam until you get to the start for "Calm the Farm" and then finish up that route. Foot rail is in.

FA: Olivier GK, 17 Jan 2022

Sit start with hands on white dusty rock. LH to beautiful pocket. Big span move out right to RH sidepull/pinch. Calm the farm and control the barn door while you slap up to LH sloper. Another big span move out right to 2 finger crimp/pinch. Finish up on jug with either hand. Best problem here.

FA: Olivier GK, 15 Feb 2021

Sit start LH positive corner, RH good slot. LH to big sausage pinch, RH big move to wide pinch, LH to the best hold on the wall. RH to sloper. LH far left to crimpy ledge with thumb catch (this hold is loose but still holding for now). RH+match in the big hole. Up and match finishing jugs

Low traverse. Sit start matched on thick sausage hold. Traverse left to the pockets and then launch to the good Pinga's Displeasure jug and finish up that climb. Keep your feet off the bottom ledge but otherwise use any holds you want.

FA: Olivier GK, 26 Jul 2021

3 move campus board problem. Campus start on the two good pinch jugs in the center of the wall. Campus up LH to slopey jug, campus again RH to 2 finger pinch, and again LH to the finishing jug.

FA: Olivier GK, 17 Jan 2022

Sit start with LH in the low slot, RH on a good ledge. Reachy move to LH jug with thumb catch, RH 2 finger pinch, then heel hook right and finish LH on the jug. Don't use the bottom rail - V0 if you put your feet on the bottom rail.

FA: Olivier GK, 24 Mar 2021

Sit start. Keep your feet off the bottom rail at all times (off limits). Sit start with LH in the low slot, RH on the razor crimp. Hold on and bring your RH up to good hold, LH to little ledge. RH to lumpy crimp. LH to a tenuous 2 finger gaston intermediate and bump LH to a good gaston and finish with RH at the jug.

FA: Olivier GK, 17 Mar 2021

Hope you brought enough pulleys. Sit start LH on razor crimp, RH on low crimp. Hold on tight and hoist your bum off the ground and catch the RH lumpy crimp. LH to the carved out crimp, RH to the 3 finger pocket crimp, LH to the grainy crimp, and finish up RH on jug. Don't use the bottom rail - V3 if you put your feet on the bottom rail since the first move is the crux.

FA: Olivier GK, 30 Mar 2021

First problem here done in snowy running shoes. Sit start on the two obvious holds near the right-side of the wall. Right hand up to good ledge, left hand in the surprisingly perfect undercling, right hand to slanted ledge, left hand to the top ledge

FA: Olivier GK, 4 Feb 2021

Stand start on the jug out right and do the exact reverse sequence to finish at the starting holds of Pinga's Displeasure.

FA: Olivier GK, 17 Mar 2021

Stand start right to left high traverse along the jug rail, finishing at the top left finishing jug on the wall. A good warmup.

FA: Olivier GK, 8 Apr 2021

Sit start on the left side of the outcrop 10m to the right of the main wall. Cross over to the right to get in position with chossy feet to a big deadpoint or dyno to a big jug from a sharp RH sidepull and good LH ledge. Can be topped out.

FA: Olivier GK, 2 Jun 2021

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