Beaver Valley, Rock climbing

YDS

5.0 5.2 5.4 5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 5.10a 5.10c 5.11a 5.11c 5.12a 5.12c 5.13a 5.13c

Map

6 3 2 4 1 5

1 Old Baldy 2 Metcalfe Rock 3 The Swamp 4 A.Q. 5 Devil's Glen 6 Berlin Wall

Directions in Google Maps

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Seasonality

Summary

Want to contribute to route development? Go to the Ontario Climbing page and contribute to the Hardware Fund (or grab a printed guidebook while helping out!) https://www.ontarioclimbing.com/

Description

The Beaver Valley is home to some of the best moderate sport climbing on the Niagara Escarpment. Many of the crags have seen recent development with routes being (re)bolted to modern standards.

Due to changes in bolting, it is best to always take bolt number information with caution.

Access issues inherited from Ontario

In the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. The Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) monitors this, and negotiates for access to cliffs, or to avoid closures. They maintain a crag status list at: https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/crag-status/

The Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry also maintains an online crown land use policy atlas. This can often be used to determine the ownership status of the land on which a cliff is located in Ontario. It can be found at: http://www.giscoeapp.lrc.gov.on.ca/web/MNR/NHLUPS/CLUPA/Viewer/Viewer.html .