Halton Region, Rock climbing

YDS

5.0 5.2 5.4 5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 5.10a 5.10c 5.11a 5.11c 5.12a 5.12c 5.13a 5.13c 5.14a

Map

8 7 14 3 5 4 1 11 9 13 2 12 6 15 10

1 Rattlesnake Point 2 Mount Nemo 3 Mount Kelso 4 Bottle Glass 5 Buffalo Crag 6 The Turtle 7 Crag X 8 Cow Crag 9 Fog Town 10 The Crag Next Door 11 16 Mile Creek 12 Bronte Creek Provincial Park 13 YMCA Climbing Gym 14 Aspire Climbing 15 Climber's Rock

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Description

These are the "Toronto" crags, being an approximately 40 minute drive from Toronto. The crags listed here are on Conservation Halton land (http://www.conservationhalton.on.ca/) and include both sport and trad routes. Top-roping is prohibited except at 'Rattlesnake Point', 'Buffalo Crag' and 'Bottle Glass' where top-anchors have been installed. As a result of heavy traffic due to the proximity to Toronto many of these routes are heavily polished and may climb much harder than their purported grade.

Access issues inherited from Ontario

In the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. The Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) monitors this, and negotiates for access to cliffs, or to avoid closures. They maintain a crag status list at: https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/crag-status/

The Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry also maintains an online crown land use policy atlas. This can often be used to determine the ownership status of the land on which a cliff is located in Ontario. It can be found at: http://www.giscoeapp.lrc.gov.on.ca/web/MNR/NHLUPS/CLUPA/Viewer/Viewer.html .