Routes in South-Western Ontario for selected grade

Start just left of number 7C.

Climbs the arete at number 8B.

Starts about 7m right of the spring.

Same start as 'Funky Fingers', ends on the belay ledge for 'The Mother'.

Starts from the right of the belay ledge.

High first bolt to the left of the two trees. Even throughout for the grade, with multiple different types of cruxy elements. Delicate traverse on small holds, awkward balancy mantel, small crimp face climbing.

Pumpy overhanging bouldery problem. Key pockets sometimes wet under roof. Split off left to Live Bait or right to ledge for As You Like it to finish.

Climb the fun crack up to a great rest. Pull the roof. No cheating onto Ten-D-Nitus!

Alternate 2nd pitch for "Ground Zero".

1. From the belay ledge, climb the left line of bolts. (Gear not needed for this pitch.)

From the "Ground Zero Ledge" (easiest access on the right side but still a bit of a sketchy scramble). Left line of bolts. Now fully bolted.

This climb is located about 10 meters right of the main Cat's Tail wall. Start beneath a corner system (a left-facing one below a right-facing one). Head up through the corners to a stance beneath a break in the small roof (by a large left-facing flake). Plug in some bomber gear and head for the anchors. Note: Gear is sparse and tricky for the first 8 meters or so.

Just to the right of Flaked Out.

Start at 15m.

From the Rakkup guide: Located about 20m left of plate 90, or 5m left of the small cliff-face cedar.

The finger crack. 1 bolt at the start of the crack

Bolted line ~15m left of the giant roof. A more technical first half leads to a juggy finish. Anchor: 2 bolts, quicklinks, a chain and two non-locking carabiners (showing early signs of wear).

In a separate cave further down. 43.459528, -79.951861

Probably the best for the grade at Baldy. steep moves until you are past the 4th bolt.

Classic overhanging hand/fist crack

Cruxy boulder problem to start followed by some balancey slab climbing

Bolted route in-between Shower in a Briefcase and Half Wits(trad) has good holds with a slight bend to the right leading up to the roof crux. Be careful not to clip into the adjacent route on the right at the roof section.

Climb to the right of the tree

Route to the right of the corner and Snap Hook

A lone route past/behind this gully

This climb embodies the character of the cliff. It rains lichen, moss, and the occasional rock. A little dampness is always lurking out of sight, but not out of reach. The climbing? Surprisingly fun!

Newly bolted route right of Kansai that starts in a short dihedral before continuing into several flakes and ledges in the same crack system. I have not confirmed the grade but was told 5.11a, feel free to update.

Starts just right of 'Spring Cleaning'

7m right of "Nutcracker".

Just left of Anvil's Away, a thin seam leads to the crux move: a right throw near the top of the bulge.

Engaging from start to finish with some surprising moves - one of the best DG 5.11s.

Thin powerful start gets you off the ground if you don't cheat using a stack of rocks on the right. Shares the same finish as the route to the right.

About 6m right of Looney Toons.

Left of Ladyslipper.

Can be located at top of cliff by blue letter "C" painted on the rock.

Great face climbing through thin holds with a steep finish. When I last checked (summer '14), all bolts were rusty and hanging belay had some old webbing. Take care if you decide to lead this route (HANGING BELAY). Else, I recommend either rope soloing or toprope.

The direct finish of Ego effect.

Left-most line of bolts.