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Le Mur Principale

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 25

Seasonality

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Description

The main wall, a few meters to the right of the entrance.

Access issues inherited from Parc d'Escalade Julien Labedan

The site is on public land managed by the municipality of Lac Superior (not the great lake) and the Fédération québécoise de la montagne et de l’escalade (FQME).

You should be a member of FQME to climb at this site.

Ethic inherited from Parc d'Escalade Julien Labedan

Clean-up after yourself. Stick-clipping is expected especially on some of the tougher sport routes and they were bolted with this in mind. Don't belay off existing fixed gear. No new development of routes without authorisation of the FQME. Projects will be marked with red tape, don't climb projects.

Routes

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Grade Route

Splitter finger crack. Goes up to a horizontal about half way up the face; at which you can either continue up the direct line, or traverse right to the 2nd crack that starts upwards at the horizontal. Both about the same difficulty.

The obvious slightly left-leaning wide crack in the middle of the wall.

Starts on a finger crack a few meters right of "Momo", and follows a series of disjoint cracks up and right.

Just right of the thin cracks of "Trilogie" is a single bolt below an obvious crack with an obvious thin chock-stone near the top.

Pre-clip the bolt recommended -- the start is right of the bolt, and is thin-moves to a pocket. 5.7 climbing after the pocket, but the moves to the pocket are very height-dependent, and noticeable harder than 5.7 if you're short.

Climb the blocky arete.

Not a good lead if 5.6 is anywhere close to your limit. Tricky gear, committing moves, and bad fall zones for most of the climb.

Now a sport route

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