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Lac Larouche

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 63

Seasonality

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Summary

Close to the city, wide range of difficulties and easy access to the top to install the topropes.

Description

The lake La Rouche crag is a nice small spot close (20-25 minutes drive) from Sherbrooke. The access is short and easy, and the crag presents routes from 5.1 to 5.12, with almost everything that's in between. While it is most known as a toprope rock school crag, there are some serious trad routes here, from classics nice ones to hard others. There is only one sport route, and not the easiest (5.12 b/c).

Nice place for short days, to practice technique or to introduce new friends to climbing!

A detailed topo with photos and route descriptions has been created by Jean-Philippe Gouin, owner of "école d'escalade et de montagne Chamox". It can be accessed here: http://wp.chamox.com/topo. The password can be obtained by filling in your name and email address in the form.

All the top anchors can be reached from a nice trail on the right of the first routes. You can't miss it! Almost every route is equipped with two stainless bolts so you can easily set your anchor. Please, don't belay directly from the fixed gear. In most case, a third bolt as been set to allow you to clip in your daisy chain before you reach the anchor. Generally, a 120cm daisy is perfect, and a 120cm anchor will generally clear the rock and let your biners free in the air. Enjoy!

Access issues

45.473637, -72.176758 Take route 222 from Sherbrooke (from route 249, if you come from Montreal and exit the highway right after Magog). Once you've passed the campground near Lac Brompton, you're almost there; Pass chemin Bombardier on your left, then go up a small hill. The entrance is on the other side of the hill; As soon as the road starts to go left, slow down, and look for a green "P" (parking) sign on the right. Seriously slow down before, as the entrance appears at the last moment, and it's a 90 degrees right turn on a dirt road.

Approach

From the parking, take the wide trail behind the gate. The one close to the road is a hiking trail, and while it's a nice one, it will bring you a long way from the wall! Follow the trail for about 50m, and when you see a trail map, turn on your right. You'll cross a small water band, continue until you reach the cliff. Go up all the way until you reach the base of the crag. The whole thing should take about 5-10 minutes!

Ethic

The history of the site reveals that the access has been a bit precarious, so simply don't bolt anything without asking first. There is a strong reluctance to bolting from the climbers who opened the area ... it is probably meant to remain mostly a trad/toprope area, even though some routes would be better off bolted.

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Activity

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