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Mont Ste-Marie

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Summary

Cracks: from thin fingers to chimneys. Ice in winter.

Description

Mont Ste-Marie is a small but complex crag just below the Mont Ste-Marie ski resort, and overlooking the Lac Ste-Marie golf course. The rock is generally compact and solid once surface plating is removed, and tends towards vertical or near-vertical crack lines, making for many excellent gear-protected lines. The top of most climbs can, also, be reached for setting top-ropes.

The crag is primarily west-facing, getting afternoon sun, though some sections and climbs stay shaded most of the day. There is also reasonable tree cover across much of the base.

Most/all climbs have a rock at the base with their name.

As this crag is quite new, most/all grades are still subject to discussion/confirmation.

The climbs left of the "Flight Deck", up to and including "San Diago" are easily reachable from the top by hiking up and around the left end of the crag.

For climbs right of this, it is more complicated. There are a couple of approach anchors that can work for most the climbs except "Flight Deck, Front" where you need to climb "Challenger" (short 5.6 with two bolts), and "Ivy League Dreams" which is more complicated, and probably not top-rope accessible.

The ice climbs form on the right end, beginning just past "Ive League Dreams".

Access issues

The crag is on municipal land that is zoned for mixed recreational use.

Approach

The approach is currently under construction. Literally. New roads are being built at the time of publication, for what looks like a new cottage sub-division to go in, making describing exactly how to find the start of the approach a bit tricky.

Davos Road (Rue de Davos) used to end in a turn-around at (45.9413900, -75.8855000) https://www.google.com/maps/place/45%C2%B056'29.0%22N+75%C2%B053'07.5%22W/@45.9413889,-75.8876054,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xf07b52162d87f98e!8m2!3d45.9413889!4d-75.8854167 . This is still the best point to park and meet someone.

From there, follow the newly constructed road as it continues (down hill a bit) then take the first left, which will go up hill a bit. About 200m after the left, look for an obvious trail heading off into the woods on the right. It is ATV wide, and double-rutted. You will see a small white sign on a tree as well, about 15 metres off the road.

Follow this trail for several hundred metres down the hill and across some low-lying land that is often wet. Look for a flagged trail on the left, about 5m before the third plastic culvert.

The flagged trail will branch shortly after it starts, with the left branch taking a steepish approach and arriving at Iron Lotus at the left end of the crag, whereas the right branch is more gentle, and brings you to the right end of the crag, close to the climb "Ivy League Dreams".

Ivy League Dreams is the right-most current climb, and right of it is often wet, and forms ice in the winter.

Ethic

Keep things clean. The crag overlooks a local golf course - don't be loud enough to annoy the golfers.

Check with Doug & Nicole before doing any development work. (Contact me, David Gibbs, if you wish to be put in contact with them.)

History

History timeline chart

The crag was developed by Nicole Fodor and Douglas Fleck, starting in 2016. It was opened to the public with about 20 finished lines in May 2022, though development continues. At the time when they started development, the line named San Diago had been climbed before, and had pre-existing top anchors, but there was no evidence of climbing on other lines.

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Sun 19 Mar
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