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Access: Closed during hunting season. October 2nd to 17th

This is very important as the owner has threatened to shut down the access if this is not respected. Please cooperate.

See warning details and discuss

Created 7 weeks ago

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
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D

Description

(47.1267510, -71.8764480)

This cliff contains most of the established climbs on the Gros Bonnet.

Access issues inherited from Gros Bonnet

The access is closed for hunting season every year. Dates change yearly.

  • October 2nd to 17th, 2021
  • October 3rd to 18th, 2020
  • October 5th to 20th, 2019
  • September 29th to October 14th, 2018
  • September 30th to October 15th, 2017
  • October 1st to October 16th, 2016

A 11.50$ per car fee must be paid at the entrance of the ZEC. They currently only serve one customer at a time (JULY 2021) so be prepared to spend a few minutes in line.

It is also possible to settle the entry fee online: https://pavnew.manisoft.ca/login.php?idZec=batiscan_neilson

Approach

From the parking, follow a well-marked trail to a permanent spinal board. From there, the trail splits (not obvious). Left trail heads up the gully to the base of "Grimpe dans le piton" (huge dihedral). Right trail leads to the right side of the main cliff.

Alternatively, you could climb 'Transcanadienne' to get to the base of the huge dihedral.

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Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Hugo Drouin & Charles Lacroix, 2014

Still dirty. Needs cleaning.

FA: Louis-Pierre Tessier & Frédérick Desgranges, 2011

FA: Hugo Drouin & Francis Perreault, 2012

FA: Hugo Drouin, Francis Perreault & Francois Turgeon, 2012

FA: Charles Lacroix & Arian Manchego, 2012

FA: Louis-Pierre Tessier & Frédérick Desgranges, 2010

FA: Louis-Pierre Tessier & Frédérick Desgranges, 2010

FA: Éric Tremblay, Êlise Maurice-Kiepura & Jean-Claude Maurice, 2011

FA: Péa Paquet, M.-É. Guibault & J.-F. Leblanc, 2014

FA: Louis-Pierre Tessier & Frédérick Desgranges, 2009

FA: Frédérick Desgranges & Louis-Pierre Tessier

FA: Frédérick Desgranges & Louis-Pierre Tessier, 2009

  1. Climb the small crack on the right face (5.10) or climb dirty face/layback (5.8) around the left to reach the obvious ledge. Bolted anchor.

  2. Walk 5m to the right to start right under a bolt. Pull the first overhanging move (easier than it looks) to reach the first crux at the second bolt. It is recommended to stop at the left anchor (5.10d) for drag but it can be linked into the next pitch (5.11a).

  3. Head up and slightly right past a bolt and a powerful layback move. Re-establish on good holds and go through the same process again for the second crux (5.11a). If your drag allows it, traverse left (5m) past the anchor to find another bolted anchor. Alternatively, you can traverse to the left after the second bolt to reach the left anchor. The fixed rope on the traverse has core shots. Be careful.

  4. Climb 3m of easy terrain and mantel onto a nice ledge. Gather all of your courage, small cams and nuts and head up the obvious fingertip crack (crux). After that, the climbing eases up a little but is still harder than it looks. Keep climbing up the crack to reach a bolted anchor just above the tree.

  5. Follow the left crack, the traverse right to a smooth dihedral.

FA: François Turgeon, Anne-Sophie Roberge, Daniel Morin & Fean-François Beaulieu, 2016

FA: Louis-Pierre Tessier & Frédérick Desgranges

FA: Frédérick Desgranges, Ariane M-Roberge & Jacques Charbonneau, 2011

FA: Louis-Pierre Tessier & PAtricia Lauzé

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