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épaule gauche

2
YDS

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Description

The left shoulder of the mountain.

Access issues inherited from Parc national des Grands-Jardins

Climbing is tolerated in Zec des Martres. Climbing in Grands-Jardins is handled in association with the FQME and climbers should have a day- or annual-membership.

Parc/Zec entrance fees would also be payable.

Approach

From the parking walk farther north along the highway until an obvious trail heads up to the cliff.

Descent notes

Rappel or walk-off.

Routes

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Grade Route

The first climb done on le Dome.

Approach: From the parking lot, walk along the road (north) until you see an obvious sign for "L'initiation". Follow the trail to the wall then left for a few meters past the "V0 one move approach boulder"

  1. 5.6 Climb straight up past two bolts, through a slabby dihedral up to a ledge with a bolted anchor.

  2. 5.5 Either straight up then right or right then up to a last sab move just below the anchor ledge.

  3. 5.4 Up to a ledge, then one crimpy move to regain horizontal cracks. Traverse left after the bush, then up to gain a bolted anchor.

  4. 5.4 The next few pitches are less vertical until the headwall. You can basically climb anywhere and link pitches. To gain the bolted anchor, surmount a first buldge, then aim for a break through the bushes up and slightly right.

  5. 5.4 Aim straight up to a bolted anchor just below where is steepens up.

  6. 5.4 Up and slightly left from the anchor, then traverse right and follow a serie of slabby dihedrals to a bolted anchor just below the headwall.

  7. Three options at this point

5.6: Traverse left to a right-leaning ramp and then back right to a bolted anchor straight above the last one.

5.7: Climb straight up from the bolted anchor. Looks more intimidating but the holds are huge and the climbing is good. Anchor is straight above the last one. You can link it with the next pitch.

5.6?: Traverse right to a completely alternate finish. I've never done this variation.

  1. 5.5 Climb up past a bolt to a bolted anchor. This anchor (as well as other anchors on this climb) was bolted with rappeling in mind rather than belaying. You should either extend it or build a gear anchor. Or regret belaying from it.

  2. 5.5 Follow thin cracks to a right-leaning ramp then straight up. Look right for the next anchor or miss it and link to the top!

  3. 5.4 Climb up and slightly right after a bushy ledge to gain the last bolted anchor of the climb!

Descent: If you need to bail on this climb, there are rappel anchors every 30m so you can make it down with a single 60m rope. It is not recommended to rappel the route if you make it to the top tough since there are often many parties on this climb. You should instead walk leftwards to gain the descent trail back down to the road.

Sidenote: If you're faster than other parties on this climb, you can easily pass them without being in their way by literally climbing 5m left or right of them at almost any point.

Also plan on linking pitches, it's worth it! 1-2-3 and 4-5-6 are a rope stretchers / few moves of simul (70m rope), 7-8 and 9-10 are easily linked with a 60m

FA: Xavis, Garneau & Francois Xavier Garneau, 1970

FA: F. X. Garneau, 1973

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