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East Cliff Mostly Trad climbing 65 routes in cliff

65
YDS
5.05.25.45.65.75.85.95.10a5.10c5.11a5.11c

Seasonality

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D

Access issues inherited from Rattlesnake Point

Do not wrap trees for top anchors, use the installed bolts. There is no new bolting without permission.

Approach

Head east (climbers right) from the bottom of the stairs.

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Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1
5.2 Trio Trad

Starts at number 23.

2
5.4 Abzweigen Trad

Starts at number 23A.

3
5.5 ★ Bloody Mess Sport 11m

Starts at number 23B.

Former trad line, bolted in 2019. Thanks, OAC!

4
5.6 Poop Pouch for your Pooch Sport

Cave Ledge Area.

Bolted 2019. Thanks, OAC!

5
5.4 Wary Trad

Start at number 24.

6
5.8 ★★ Noob Cocoon Sport

Cave Ledge Area (starts just below the ledge on the right side).

New for 2019. Thanks, OAC!

7
5.6 ★★ After You Trad 23m

Starts at number 25.

8
5.8 ★★ Roly's Route Trad

Start at number 25A.

9
5.10b ★ Rob's Route Trad
10
5.9 ★★ Amphitheatre Trad 20m

Start at number 26.

11
5.10b ★★ Sophocles Trad

Start at number 27.

12
5.11b ★★ Parkdale Trad
13
5.10d ★★ Jeopardy Trad
14
5.8 ★★ Electra Trad

Start at number 28

15
5.10 ★ Electra Directra Trad
16
5.9 ★ Crack Up Trad

Warning Flora and Fauna: Wasp Nest

17
5.9 The Unknown Route Trad

Starts on the ledge on 'Amphitheatre'.

18
5.9 Pete and Zig's Trad

Starts on the ledge on 'Amphitheatre'.

19
5.9 ★★ Snowjob Trad
20
5.9 ★★ Crystal Palace Sport

Amphitheatre Ledge Area.

Bolted in 2019. Thanks, OAC!

21
5.4 ★★★ Easter Bunny Trad
22
5.7 ★★ Ice Castle Plus Sport

Amphitheatre Ledge Area.

Bolted 2019. Thanks, OAC!

Shares bolts with More Than Three Is A Crowd.

23
5.6 R Ice Castle Trad

Start at number 29.

See also bolted routes Ice Castle Plus and More Than Three is a Crowd.

24
5.10a ★★ More Than Three is a Crowd Sport

Variant of Ice Castle Plus. Starts to the right, then continues to shared anchor.

Bolted 2019. Thanks, OAC!

25
5.2 ★★ Garden Path Trad

Start at number 29B. Climbs a corner to a large ledge with a tree and continues up from there. Easy but dirty climbing.

26
5.4 ★ Voyageur Trad 25m

Start at number 29C.

27
5.0 Animal Route Trad

Start at number 30.

28
Class 4 Nelson's Escape Hatch Trad
29
5.11 Sea Trad
30
5.11+ Land Trad
31
5.9 ★ Glue Party Trad
32
5.11b Trouble in Paradise Trad
33
5.11b ★ Rocket Man Sport

Easy climbing to the ledge, followed by more difficult moves up the first bulge and a crux finish into the corner. Anchor: 2 bolts + quick links + 2 non-locking carabiners

34
5.8 The Beer Party Trad

Starts at number 32.

35
5.7 Exposure Trad

Start at 32A.

36
5.9 ★★ Exposure Plus Sport 12

Same line as Exposure with bolts slightly to the right of the trad line.

37
5.7 High Traverse Trad

Start at 32B.

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38
5.10d ★★ High Traverse / Limbo Plus Sport 17m, 10

Bolted 2019. Climb High Traverse/Limbo to the roof along the bolts. Traverse along the roof a bit to the right (don't clip the red-tagged bolt) and finish up and over the roof to the anchor. Anchor: 2 bolts + rappel rings

39
5.10a Smegma Spasmodic Frog in the Farflung Isles of Langerhans Trad

Start 2m right of Limbo.

FA: Dave Lanman

40
5.10c Shattered Trad

FA: David Smart

41
5.10b ★ Free Fall Trad

FA: Rob Rohn & Chris Rogers

42
In Between Aid
43
5.8 ★★ Gerard's Route Trad

Start at 32D climbing up the left facing corner, when halfway up the face step right and straight up to the top.

44
5.10c ★★ Nine to the Universe Trad
45
5.10c ★★ Excalibur Sport 17m

Bolted climb left of The Spider. Stick clip 2nd bolt recommended. Anchor: 2 bolts, quick-links, rap rings, and non-locking carabiners

46
5.9 ★★ The Spider Trad

Start at 32E.

47
5.10b ★★ The Spider (sport) Sport 17m

Bolted line (glue-ins) to the left of Cobwebs. Anchor: rap rings

48
5.6 ★★ Cobwebs Trad 25m

Starts at number 33.

49
5.10b Limbo Trad

Route is between High Traverse and Shattered.

50
5.9 ★★ Frenchman Trad

Start at number 34.

51
5.8 Solo Trad 25m

Start at number 35.

52
5.8 Solo Direct Trad

Start at number 35A.

53
5.4 ★ Pedro Trad

Start at number 36.

54
5.7 Deception Trad

Climb is between Pedro and Orangeman. Climb the bulge, keeping left of the crack.

55
5.3 Orangeman Trad

Start at number 36A.

56
5.6 Jolly Rectum Trad 25m

Start at number 36B.

57
5.2 ★ Freedom Trad 15m

Start at number 37.

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58
5.5 ★ Where's Your Bucket? Sport 15m

Warning Flora and Fauna: Wasp Nest

Bolted line near the far east part of the crag. Climb greasy jugs until about half way, after which the rock quality gets a bit better. Anchor: 2 bolts + rap rings.

59
5.4 ★ Surprise Trad

Start at number 38.

60
5.7 ★★ Tune Your Head Not Your Crag Sport
61
5.4 ★ Roger's Route Trad

Start 2m right of number 38.

62
5.3 Port Trad

Start at number 38.

63
5.3 Starboard Trad

Start at number 39.

64
5.4 Wanderweg Trad

Start at number 40.

65
5.1 ★★ Over the Hill Trad 15m

Start at number 41.

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5.4 ★★★ Easter Bunny
5.6 ★★ Cobwebs

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