Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
West Cliff Buckingham Area | |||||
5.9 | Sylvia's Crotch
| ||||
5.9 | ★ Be A Mentor
Climb up to a large ledge to find the anchors for Find A Mentor. Continue up to second set of anchors past the roof. New for 2019. Thanks, OAC! | 12m, 6 | |||
5.5 | ★ Find A Mentor
Blocks up to a large ledge. Or, continue up to second set of anchors past the roof (the end of Be A Mentor). New for 2019. Thanks, OAC! | 9m, 5 | |||
5.5 | ★ Two Summers Past
Start at the painted number 1. Climb up to a small triangular roof. Move left to find a small ledge, continue traversing several meters left to find corner under a small roof. Climb this to the top. | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Straight Up
Start at the painted number 1. Climb up to a small triangular roof. Move left to find a small ledge, pull off a subtle move on decent crimps past two sketchy looking bolts to continue up onto a larger ledge and move back right underneath a roof. Pull the roof through the notch and continue to the top on easy climbing. | 25m | |||
5.8 | ★★★ Orcstone
Start at the painted number 1. Climb up to a small triangular roof. Move left to find a small ledge, pull off a subtle move on decent crimps past two sketchy looking bolts to continue up onto a larger ledge and move back right underneath a roof. Pull the roof on the right and continue to the top. | 25m | |||
5.10b | ★ Wild Weed
| ||||
5.11 | Weedsworth
| ||||
5.8 | Rogue's Gallery
Start at number 2 | 25m | |||
5.10a | ★★ B.S.
Bolted face climb with interesting moves and good rock. Originally a 5.9 trad. Start 3m right of number 2 | 16m, 9 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Buckingham Palace
Start at No 3. | ||||
5.10 | Buckingham Right
| ||||
5.7 | ★ Hanging Tree
Start 3m right of number 3. | 25m | |||
5.10b | ★ Bohemian Rhapsody
Starts 6m right of number 3. | ||||
5.6 | ★ Poor Tree
Starts at number 4. | ||||
5.5 | ★ Fallen Trees
Starts 5m right of number 4. | ||||
5.4 | ★ Hot Stuff
Starts at 4B and climbs up and diagonally to the right, crossing 'Jiminy Cricket' and 'Pinocchio'. | ||||
5.5 | Jiminy Cricket
Starts at 4C. | 16m | |||
5.9 | ★ Pinocchio
Start at number 4D. Rebolted as a sport route in 2019. | 16m, 8 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Lutz'z Route
FA: Lutz Rauche | 20m | |||
5.6 | ★ Abendrot
Starts at number 5, although the number is no longer visible. Climb an obvious but extremely polished crack up to a left-facing corner. | 16m | |||
5.6 | ★★ Steve's Arete
Starts at number 6. | 15m | |||
5.9 | ★★ Two Pieces
Starts 4m right of number 6. | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Two Pieces Direct
Starts from the ledge on 'Steve's Arete' | ||||
5.9 | ★ Showpiece
Start 4m right of number 6. | 25m | |||
5.11 | Son of Bogus
Start just left of number 7C. | ||||
5.7 | Trepidation
Start at number 7C. | ||||
West Cliff Plaque Area | |||||
5.4 | Creepy Crawly
Start in the chimney behind 'Showpiece'. | ||||
5.10 | ★ Deadline
Start at number 8. | 25m | |||
5.6 | Army days
Start at number 8A | 25m | |||
5.6 | ★★ Raccoon Army
Right of the cave | 10m, 6 | |||
5.11 | Chalky's Arete
Climbs the arete at number 8B. | ||||
5.3 | ★★ Chalky's Balance Climb
Start at number 8B and go up and right. | ||||
5.8 | Chalk
Starts 3m right of number 8B. | ||||
5.6 | ★ Crack One
Start at number 8C, about a meter left of the plaque. Climb the crack to a large (and polished!) fin. Continue up to a large ledge and move right to finish. | ||||
5.7 | ★ Crack Two
Start at the plaque to the right of 8C. Climb the layback crack, moving slightly right just underneath a small overhang and continue up. | ||||
5.7 | ★ Crack Two and a Half
Face climb between 'Crack Two' and 'Crack Three'. | ||||
5.8 | ★ Crack Three
Start 3m right of the plaque and avoid 'Finale'. | ||||
5.4 | ★★ Finale
Starts at number 9. Starts in a groove and climbs roughly straight up with good gear and holds. Polish at the beginning makes it feel harder than 5.4. | 20m | |||
5.5 | ★★ Final Finale
Starts at number 10. Climb up and over the small roof to a large ledge and traverse right to a comfortable belay. Continue up and right, ending up around the corner and above the roof of the neighboring routes. Finishes up past a cedar and a piton. | 2 | |||
5.6 | Birds Nest Soup
Start at number 10a. | ||||
5.6 | ★★★ Final Finale Direct
Starts 5m right of number 10a. Climb up the finger crack (bring smaller nuts and cams) and eventually you will have to traverse left of the roof. Climb a little higher and you will find a rusty piton and a rusty bolt on a ledge. Belay from here to avoid rope drag. Traverse right from the belay and climb to the right of the cedar to finish. | 27m | |||
5.11b | ★ Space Case
Starts below the belay ledge for 'Final Finale'. | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Holy Cow
Start at number 11. | ||||
5.9 | ★★ The Nose
Start a couple of meters right of 'Holy Cow' | ||||
West Cliff Stream Area | |||||
5.10b | ★★ Crepidation
Start at the spring. | ||||
5.11d | Footloose
Starts 2m right of the spring. | ||||
5.10b | ★ The Mother
Starts 4m right of the spring. | 2 | |||
5.9 | ★ The Father
| 20m | |||
5.10c | Blessed Mary
| ||||
5.11a | ★★ Funky Fingers
Starts about 7m right of the spring. | ||||
5.11a | S.O.B.
Same start as 'Funky Fingers', ends on the belay ledge for 'The Mother'. | ||||
5.11+ | Bogus
| ||||
5.10b | ★ Firefall
Starts just left of number 13, 'Holy Trinity'. Ends on the ledge. | ||||
5.10a | ★ Space Invaders
Starting from the belay ledge, climb up to the bolt on 'Funky Fingers'. | ||||
5.11 | ★ Peter's Variation
Starts from the right of the belay ledge. | ||||
5.6 | ★★ Holy Trinity
Start at number 13 and climb up the corner until the roof, then move right to the large corner. Avoid the loosely attached large, dark-coloured rock to the left. Belay from there then climb the corner and follow the gully out. | 23m, 2 | |||
5.7 | ★ Discovery (sport)
single pitch bolted sport version of Discovery. ~12m? (check) | 12m, 7 | |||
5.7 | ★ Discovery
Start a number 13B. | 2 | |||
5.4 | ★★ Sinusitis
| 25m, 2 | |||
5.9 | The Bulge
Starts from the large corner from 'Holy Trinity'. | ||||
5.0 | ★★ Median
Referred to as "Medium" in David Smart's 1988 Edition of Ontario Limestone. | 23m | |||
5.8 | Maverick
Starts 2m right of Median | 25m | |||
5.3 | ★ The 5.3 Right of Median
Starts 6m right of 'Median'. Ends on a ledge. | ||||
5.8 | ★ Loblwas
Start 2m right of 'The 5.3 Right of Median'. | 15m | |||
5.0 | The Walk
Starts 4m right of 'Loblaws'. | ||||
5.10 | ★ Fingerlickin'
Starts 1m left of 'Dilly Dally'. | ||||
5.3 | ★ Dilly Dally
Start at number 16. | ||||
West Cliff Super Solenoid Area | |||||
5.10d | ★ Treed Lightly
1
5.7
2
5.10d
Starts 2m left of "So Good". Climbs the face with the anchors over the big ledge. Continue past the anchors to climb a 5.10d. | 10m, 2, 6 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Treed Lightly (Extension)
Continues past the anchors of 'Treed Lightly'. | 15 | |||
5.10a | ★★ So Good
Starts 2m left of "Be a Hoot..", starts up the obvious flakes and cracks to a ledge. Continue up along a right facing crack and small roof to great face climbing and a second ledge. Another short section of face climbing will bring you to the anchors. | 25m, 13 | |||
5.10a | ★ Be a Hoot, Don't Noise Pollute
use 2 alpine draws to reduce drag! | 22m, 8 | |||
5.6 | ★ Molson's
Start at number 17. | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Export
Start at number 18. Climb the crack over the bulge to a small ledge. Follow the crack system to a small ledge below a slanting roof. Pull the roof and finish through the trees. | ||||
5.9 | ★ PD
The bolts left of Thank Mr. Goose. | 12m, 5 | |||
5.8 | ★ Thank Mr. Goose
Left of the Fire Escape | 9m, 4 | |||
5.3 | ★ The Fire Escape
Start at number 19.
FA: Alf Muehlebauer | 2 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Out to Lunge
| ||||
5.10+ | Up Comes Lunch
| ||||
5.10b | Super Solenoid
Climbs the obvious crack on the right side of the ledge up to a piton. Follow the crack left and up. | 26m | |||
5.10b | ★ Golden Showers
Starts the same as 'Super Solenoid'. Go straight up from the piton instead of following the crack. | ||||
5.7 | ★ The Overhang
Starts at number 19 or number 20. | ||||
5.10b | The Overhang Indirect
| ||||
5.10 | Dave's Diversion
| ||||
5.1 | The Blocks
Start at number 21. Short blocky climb that ends at the gap between the pinnacle by the stairs and the main cliff. Walk off behind the pinnacle back to the base of the cliff. | ||||
West Cliff The Pinnacle Area | |||||
5.7 | ★★ The Pinnacle
Start at number 22A. Climb up and left, following the cracks in the middle of the pinnacle to the top. | 15m | |||
5.6 | Wet Dreams
Start at number 22A, just on the outside of the pinnacle. Climb up the face using the arete to the right as needed. | 15m | |||
5.5 | ★★ Dreams
Starts at number 22B, on the face on the inside of the pinnacle beside the stairs. Move up the face until about half way up, at which point traverse left onto the arrete at a large horizontal crack and continue up to the top of the pinnacle. | 12m | |||
5.8 | ★★ SN2
Start at number 22C. Climb the thin cracks up the middle of the inside of the pinnacle. | 12m | |||
5.7 | ★ The Chemist's Return
Starts left of number 22D. Has a new bolt next to an old piton. Top out where you see the horizontal tree trunk. -- marked as a 5.8 in the guide | 12m, 6 | |||
5.5 | ★ Stickety Clip, Barba Trick
Left of the Chemist Returns | 11m, 4 | |||
5.10a | Yard Sale Season
The bolted climb to the right of The Chemist's Returns. Up the arete and veer left to a ledge, then back onto the arete to the anchor. | ||||
5.11c | ★ H2S
Start at number 22D | 15m | |||
5.8 | ★★ McMaster Special
Start beneath a pillar just climbers left of the stairs. Climb easy moves up to the top of the pillar, beneath a large roof. Pull the roof either by using the cracks to the right or a secret hold found deep in a hole in the roof on the left. Continue up to the top with easier moves. | 15m | |||
East Cliff | |||||
5.2 | Trio
Starts at number 23. | ||||
5.4 | Abzweigen
Starts at number 23A. | ||||
5.5 | ★ Bloody Mess
Starts at number 23B. Former trad line, bolted in 2019. Thanks, OAC! | 11m | |||
5.6 | ★ Poop Pouch for your Pooch
Cave Ledge Area. Bolted 2019. Thanks, OAC! | 12m | |||
5.4 | Wary
Start at number 24. | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Noob Cocoon
Cave Ledge Area (starts just below the ledge on the right side). New for 2019. Thanks, OAC! | 12m |