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Hueco wall

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 11

Seasonality

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Description

The climbs at Hueco tend to be slopey, technical, and long compared to other walls. There are a couple of steep options as well. Bring a second rope for longer routes.

Note, the numbers in-front of a few of the route names align with numbers from a few old topos from the 90s and 00s. The numbers have been left to help distinguish the many unnamed routes, and so they can be referenced to those old guides.

There have been many new lines bolted between the older routes. If anyone has info on these new routes please add them.

Approach

Starting from the parking area at (50.90149, -116.43453) take the obvious trail past the outhouse up into the forest. After an steeper section at the beginning the trail levels off before the climbs. The path ends facing the large pillar with '8 J.P.' to '11 The Edge'.

Descent notes

Note that a few of these climbs are 45m long and may not have a rap station half way, so you may need two ropes to get back down.

Ethic inherited from Spillimacheen

Pack in then pack it out.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

This is the 2nd pitch of '1A Corner Crack'.

another long bolt line, start just right of the slab of '3 Unnamed'.

1 5.7 20m
2 5.8 25m

Climb the face just left of the dihedral of the '5 Fret Arret' corner.

This continues as a second pitch of '8 J.P.', '9 Unnamed', or '10 Oh Suzanna'.

This climb continues as a second pitch of '11 The Edge'.

Cruxy moves at first two bolts, get your feet up. Then nice and cruisy to top of big flake, good time.

There are two bolt lines side by side on this face, if someone could please edit the topo to show the correct line for this route and add the second route.

A good solid climb to the left of the big crack/depression on the rock

Unknown 5.10 to the right of '18 Viola'

Another unknown bolt line goes up just behind the small tree

Another bolt line going up the yellow rock under the low roof.

Just right and uphill slightly from the main section of 'Hueco wall'.

Start on gear on this line up the left side of the slab, finish on gear above.

Keep going right past 'Black Slab' to find a shorter red wall.

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