Routes in Shannon Falls

Start just left of the seeping rock, on the right side of the crag. Low first bolt marks the route.

SR to 4" double hand size.

Climb a short ramp to the right side of the roof, mantle past one bolt on good edges to a belay.

Cross the slab and up a short finger crack

The money pitch, Climb an amazing splitter hands crack, carrying triples of hand sizes are helpful.

Start seated matched on the good edge.

From the thin ledge that is part way up Relish Route (or left of the new first belay), climb up the slab past 6 bolts.

P1: Shares the first bolt with The Gatekeeper, head left just past this bolt and finger traverse to a nice crack. belay by the tree at the top of Pitch 1

P2: Hands and fingers corner to a forested bench.

P3: Climb the Arete to the main forested crag.

Starts above Of Quartz It Goes. Left-trending crack leads to bolts.

Start crouched with a left hand horizontal edge and right hand on the arete. Move up and traverse the ridge!

Crimp past 3 bolts to a short crack and a slab finish.

Obvious wide crack, Gear to #6 is required.

The incredibly wide, left-trending crack/chimney.

The crack in the middle

This climb starts off the upper ledge reached by "The Relish Route". It starts at the far-right end of the dirt part of the ledge.

1. 5.9, 20m Climb thin slab with difficult moves at the first bolt, then easier to an anchor.

2. 5.7 (if that), 15m. Traverse right and gently up.

Use the anchors for "The Beaten Zone" to rappel -- 60m will get you to anchors, 70m will get you back to the ledge.

A tricky start leads to a good finger crack.

Climb Khaki Suit until it is possible to break right up the face past 2 bolts and horizontal cracks.

Absolutely classic friction slab climbing!

This route starts from an anchor just right of the edge of the ledge, as it starts to become a bit more slabish, then continues diagonally up and right.

Boulder up the right sloping ramp to a balancy finger crack

A 70 METER ROPE IS MANDATORY

P1 Start as for local girls, but continue up the thin crack

P2 continue up the thin crack then break out right on the second quartz dyke. follow this out to the start of the thin finger crack. follow this up till its end and either step left for the original finish, or step right past a bolt to another splitter finger crack.

The obvious splitter ring lock crack. Bring an extra .75 or .5 for the bottom. The best route at the crag for its grade!

Starts up the right side of the same groove as "The Relish Route", before veering right.

1. 5.6, 5 bolts, 25m

2. 5.10c, 7 bolts, 20m

3. 5.10b, 4 bolts, 15m

4. 5.7, 7 bolts, 33m

P1 can be done as a 1-pitch route from the ground. P4 can be done as a 1-pitch route from the upper ledge.

A variation to Skywalker. Instead of p3-5 of Skywalker, take the left-hand fork, following a crack line up the black slab. Also, the second pitch of Skywalker can be modified by taking a 10a crack to its left, that joins p2 half way up.

The corner to the right of Zen Garden

The steep hand crack beside Densu's Dance

to access the start of this route, break left off the approach trail before the steep section, follow this trail down to a junction by the creek. take the right fork and this will be the first route.

P1 easy climbing past a single bolt leads to a small ledge, clip a bolt above your head then pull a thin technical slab crux. easier featured face climbing leads to the anchors.

P2 Climb an easy slab to a layback crack, follow this to bolts above and fun featured climbing on great holds.

The easy handcrack that starts a few meters up the wall.

The small off fingers crack on the right of Level Up. short and sweet.

Starts from the left end of the upper ledge. Follows a dyke up and rightwards, then veers straight up.

A line of broken cracks to the right of Call Sign.

The leftmost line above Zen Garden, a short finger crack leads to technical face climbing.

The best 5.10 at the crag! Climb steep cracks, Jugs, and side pulls to reach the ledge at the top

A small cam protects the opening moves, with leads into two bolts, and more broken cracks and slab above. To the right of Morse Code.

Climb the right arete starting with a left sidepull and right mini-horn.

The arete on the far right side of the crag.

70 METER ROPE MANDATORY

The obvious easy groove that runs up the middle of the crag.

An obvious left hand sidepull and a right hand just below the crack leads up left, avoiding the problems crack. Low start is an open project.

From the bottom climb a short slab up to an obvious thin finger crack. dance your way through this section to the anchors. Rap/ lower off (70m required!) or scramble over to the Pitch 3 anchors of Open Sesame

Splitter, chimney, splitter

1. 25m (10a)

2. 20m (10a)

3. 45m (10b)

1. (10b) climb crack to ledge and belay

2. (11b) Up dihedral to roof, traverse right and layback up corner crack. Up corner crack to belay bolts on slab. Rap off (50m) or continue up slab to trees and walk off

1. (10b) climb crack to ledge and belay

2. (11b) Up dihedral to roof, traverse right and layback up corner crack. Up corner crack to belay bolts on slab. Rap off (50m) or continue up slab to trees and walk off

1. 40m(11d) climb up start of hungry wolf crack and then slab left to steep dihedral. Up it then move left past big ledge to arete . Tricky slab move leads to hidden dyke. Climb rightward up thin crack to awkward flare . Up to belay

2. 18m (10a)up finger crack. stop at rap station or continue up slab to top and walk off

Even with the 70m it didn't quite reach but the lower section is low class 5 so the climber can be lowered to there and climb down a little. Climb has a little of everything but is prone to some wetness.